New member reality check

Hey all - enjoyed reading and learning here. Lifetime Porsche admirer and 911 lover. Dreamed of owning a 911 since the late 70s and almost pulled the trigger a couple of times over the years. But, kids, new jobs, relocations, etc., always interfered. Entered the �looking/shopping� phase many months ago with the goal of an air cooled 3.2 targa driver quality. But an interesting thing happened as I found the 996�..that is if I was willing to expand my search to include the 996, I could fulfill my dream AND have a high performance daily driver that I could actually drive comfortably (I live in the South). I�m aware of all the potential liability areas of the M96 and while the air cooled 3.2 is very reliable, it is also an expensive engine to maintain and ensure it is �bullet proof�. It seems the 996 is a relative value as well maintained low-mileage cars are still available in the upper price range ($30K+). Even spending $30k on a rebuild I�m still at the bottom end of a nice driver quality air-cooled and a car with better performance, comfort and safety features. I�ve almost convinced myself what I just typed is true LOL. Convince me please, or argue I should up my purchase budget for the nice driver air cooled!

I absolutely think that is true and I really think the 996, wonky headlights and all ☺️ is only on an upwards trajectory while the older air cooled I think have plateaued a bit. And you are right snag one for $30k, even if you end up spending $40k on say an FSI 4.0, it is one hell of a car for $70k! BUT you had better hurry because everyone else is coming to the same realization and my guess is that the nice ones are becoming hard to get.

Also would like to add that a Hartech rebuild is coming in at a very good price point.

I still lust after a 911SC, but am happy with my 981 Boxster S and my '94 911 C2. I bought a few months ago ( while Porsche prices were up, of course), but got a nice 65,000 mile car with complete records and excellent, proactive service for about $34k. With a new clutch and preventive AOS, I have about $38k invested. However, With regular basic maintenance, I can reasonably expect 50-60,00 miles or more of reliable use. Better bargains can be found now, but I think its good value.

This is exactly what I did in 2018! I found a one owner low miles '99 c4 cab and drove it for a couple of years. I opted for a FSI Stage 1, 3.4 -> 3.6, with a bunch of goodies in 2020. I got the car back in 06/2021 and couldn't be more pleased with the results! All in, I spent less than an older, air-cooled 911, and a lot less than newer 911s!

Long time 911 owner here. I really do love the 996. It�s such a sweet spot from the angle of still looking and feeling a bit old school but having newer comforts and performance. I still grab that key before heading to the garage more than any other car we have right now :-). And to reiterate what someone said above, the prices don�t seem to be losing any steam so act fast!

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Thank you @Rockerchief coming from a long-time 911 owner that is a real vote of support. Thanks everyone else too, I appreciate the input. I have owned and maintained other vintage and cars with known challenges (Saab Viggen, LR Discovery, MGB and more). Years ago I found a great deal on a 2005 Mercedes CLK500 cab. Still have it and it just turned 100k. It�s not an overly complicated car to maintain and has required very little work. But driving it yesterday (it my wife�s daily so I don�t get to drive it often) I realized it may be almost 20 yrs old but doesn�t look like or feel like it. I envision a 996 to feel the same, but better! I�m a DIYer, so IMS, RMS, clutch, etc no big deal for me and although I don�t want to think about a full rebuild, it�s within it my comfort zone. I have my eye on a nice one and a very well respected shop with vast knowledge of the M96 lined up for the PPI.

Get yourself an early 98/99 build car they will raise the fastest due to their slightly unique features or a PTS or colored Turbo it offers a lot of panache for the money

Consider the Turbo. It is a civilized drive with the reliability of the Mezger engine. The GT3 has the normally aspirated version of the Mezger engine (I've got 149K miles on mine), but is more focused for the track and you may not find it so comfortable. Both vehicles will hold their values very well, although they do command a premium price over the Carrera, I think they are worth the look.

I owned an air cooled 911 (three different models) for a period of 35 years before buying a 996. As much as I loved the air cooled cars (the sound of the cooling fan, the instrument panel and the “thunk” when closing the doors, a 996 is a better car, better power, good heat and air, better handling and just an all around better car in my opinion.

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This was my experience, too. Particularly the A/C. ;-)

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I share Marv's and EVOMMM's enthusiasm for Turbos, exotic colors, and special editions (40th Anniv is highly attractive). In reality, I can afford to buy an upgraded 996. But I wanted something that I could use frequently and not feel bad about using. My plain vanilla (Porsche equivalent of a "blue Chevrolet sedan") silver/black C2 is great fun and, as my first 911, is a continuous, positive learning experience. So I would suggest to find what makes you happy within your budget. If you buy a good car that you like, you will win.

I used to have a 3.2 Carrera targa, and after 6 years with a 996, I�d take the 996. It feels very much like the 3.2, but the AC works, the car is reliable, and is faster and better on a track. Nothing against the air-cooled cars, but those car are super antique by now. The 996 is the new old classic 911.

Don't kid yourself, driving ANY Porsche "daily" will not be cheap...( unless you can do all the work/troubleshooting yourself) Air-Cooled cars are expensive to buy, and very costly to "Daily" drive. Most don't get driven except to a show or C&C. Just about anytime one goes on a "Dive" they have to peal off early due to problems are have to be towed home, or are hell to start after a hot soak...You just don't see them going on "nice drives". Boxsters and Caymans are an option if you are under 6ft tall..but if you are 6ft and over the 911 is what you need.. Turbo Tip 996 is best deal going if you don't "need to row the gears" ,, but if you need to row the gears to enjoy the drive the Carrera 996 is the one you want..

A friend of mine and i went out driving and wrote a review. Long read but hope it helps By Rami Cerone and Blake Jennings For those who love to drive, few cars offer more thrills on tight roads than a Porsche 911. While new examples cost more than most of us can afford, older models in reliable condition can be had for less than the average out-the-door cost of a new SUV. The question is: if you have $50,000 to spend on a 911, should you go old-school air-cooled or new-school water-cooled? A sixty degree morning and empty country roads north of Houston gave us the chance to explore this question in matching blue 911�s from each era. Representing the luftgek�hlt era is Blake�s 1985 911 Carrera 3.2 in Prussian Blue with approximately 130,000 miles. This mostly stock example benefits from upgraded torsion bars, a modern-ish air-conditioning, 993-era seats, cat-less sport exhaust, Porsche�s short shift kit, and grippier tires than originally specced. Representing the modern era is Rami�s 80,000 mile 2001 Carrera 4, meaning all-time, all-wheel drive. This Midnight Blue Metallic 996 generation 911 has a short-shift kit from a 997, is lowered, and rides on Michelin Super Sport rubber. Let�s start with an important caveat. These cars both fit our $50,000 ceiling, but are not equal in price. Blake bought his �85 three years ago in the mid-30�s, and it has since risen in value to our ceiling. In contrast, Rami picked up his 996 last month in the low-20�s, an absolute bargain especially for a car with an IMS retrofit and significant preventative maintenance. So yes, both are �affordable� based on average new vehicle prices� but you can have two of Rami�s for one of Blake�s at current prices. Now that the details are out of the way, let�s get to driving impressions! We took the cars out on our favorite back roads which vary from tight 2nd gear corners to fast 4th gear sweepers and include a range of road types, elevation changes, and tarmac surfaces. After an hour, we swapped keys and tried the same roads again. Impressions of a 996 Carrera 4: Rami: This is a solid car and it feels substantial. The seats are narrow, but supportive. The unmistakable sound of a rear-engine Porsche greets you as soon as you turn the key, which is still on the left side of the steering wheel in homage to early Porsche race cars. Visibility is excellent and the clutch is smooth. Power is linear, the torque is noticeable, and the car likes to rev high into its powerband. There is a slight notchiness to the gears, but it is very manageable and takes just a few minutes to become second nature. That said, quick shifts will not be a norm with this car. Once into the corners, the car sticks to the road with zero drama. This particular 996 has been lowered and has thicker sway bars, resulting in very little body roll. The car goes precisely where it is pointed, and the steering wheel provides lots of information about what the front tires are encountering on the road. This is truly a delight to drive, whether it is driven gently or enthusiastically. It does exactly what it�s asked, and feels light and agile while doing it. Once out of the corners and back on the highway, with the windows up and air conditioning blowing, it feels like a grand tourer. The miles flow effortlessly. Wind and road noise are low and the car is planted. Set cruise control and drive hours in comfort, as proven when I drove this car 450 miles back from New Orleans last month. Blake: My first impression setting out in this particular 996 is that I cannot believe Rami got this car for this price! I expected squeaks and rattles and a sagging headliner. Instead, I found a clean, taught interior where all the buttons and controls still worked. And more impressive, the suspension and driveline felt factory tight, with the exception of excessive play in the gear shift mechanism that can likely be fixed with a couple bushings or cables. Getting out of my �85 and into this reminded me how so many people lost the forest for the trees with the 996. Yes, the headlights and interior switchgear still look ungainly in my opinion. But what are those nitpicks in comparison to a twenty-year old chassis that can still offer such poise and speed on twisty roads at a price that rivals a used Camry!? Now for details. Steering feel is superb, and is benefited in this car by the addition of an aftermarket Momo wheel spaced further towards the driver. The hydraulic steering provides substantial feedback and proper weight for a sports car, though it is not quite as delightful as the non-assisted steering in my �85 (but parking lot maneuvers are much easier!) While the aforementioned shifter linkage needs repair, the transmission itself is tight and heel-toe shifting is phenomenally easy, especially in comparison to the 915 box in my �85. I actually second guessed myself on my first 3-2 corner-entry downshifts, sure I must still be in neutral because it was simply too easy to rev-match and slide down a gear. The engine is equally good, providing strong torque from midrange and begging you to ring it out. For those used to modern low-lag turbos, this will not have the low-end grunt you expect. You must let the engine breathe and then shift to keep the revs above 3000. These engines do have the potential for catastrophic IMS failures, but this liability can be solved, as it was in this car, which leaves you with a superb and reasonably dependable engine. My only disappointment is that with a stock exhaust, it�s far too quiet for my taste. On the inside, seating is surprisingly tight. This car is larger than my �85 but feels noticeably smaller on the inside. That is largely due to the aerodynamic redesign that Porsche implemented with this generation, significantly increasing windshield rake. The effect is that this cabin feels more cave-like than older 911�s. On the upside, wind noise is down and top speed is up. Furthermore, the tighter cabin does mean that every control is within easy reach. Seats and pedals are perfectly positioned and supportive. This is a great place to sit while taking corners fast! Impressions of an 80�s Carrera Rami: Interestingly, this cockpit instantly felt more roomy than the 996. The steering wheel is big and the view of the road is commanding due to the small dash and the very thin pillars. Starting the car sounds throaty as this example has an aftermarket exhaust and no catalytic converter. The sound is unmistakable. The clutch pedal is hinged to the ground which feels different the first time your foot presses it, but you adjust quickly and then never notice it again. The shifter is what feels most different from the 996. This is definitely not a fast shifter. It takes effort to put in gear, every gear, every time. Slow shifting makes it more work, but also makes the drive rewarding when you get it right. Acceleration feels great. While not as fast as the 996, it feels fast enough with plenty of torque. Corners are great in this car. There�s little body roll and it sticks to the road with an unmatched steering feel thanks to its lack of power assist. The ride is firm, but very comfortable and it tracks straight and feels solid. Downshifting for corners takes practice and sometimes requires a double clutch press. But this is part of the charm of an older 911. Windows down with the sound of the motor in your ears makes for a very engaging drive. Blake: My first impression whenever I get into this car is how surprisingly airy the interior feels. This is a small car - the wheelbase is shorter than a Miata. I can reach both door handles easily from the driver�s seat. Yet thanks to the relatively upright windshield that�s positioned close to the driver, along with thin A and B pillars, it feels bright and roomy with excellent visibility in all directions. Second impression comes with a turn of the key. The growl this engine makes is, in my opinion, among the best sounds in automotive history. The lack of water jackets on the cylinders combined with a catless sport exhaust provide enough sound to wake the neighbors. The third impression hits your nose ten seconds after startup: the smell of burning oil. Like most 911�s of this era, the valve guides wear out and allow oil to seep into the cylinders when the car sits. That oil burns off in the first few minutes of driving. I need to fix that, but rebuilds on these engines run in the five-figures, a distinct disadvantage to the ownership experience. Fourth impression as I set off, this transmission takes WORK, as Rami pointed out. For the uninitiated, 911�s used a very old transmission design called the 915 until the 1987 model year when it was replaced by the much more modern, but heavier G50. The 915 has long throws, weak synchros, and no centering spring. While mine benefits from the factory short-shift kit and an aftermarket centering and gate system, it is still very challenging to get into gear. Reverse is non-synchro, so you have to take it very slow. After 130,000 miles, the 2nd through 4th gear synchros have worn, meaning these shifts take precise rev-matching and gentle engagement. Get it wrong and it makes a god-awful racket. Get it right, especially on a high rpm 3-2 downshift into a tight corner and you feel like Aryton Senna. That is the best way I know how to describe this car. It will not tolerate distracted or lazy driving. You must concentrate and work to drive it well. But when you get it right, it�s as if the stars aligned. Back to our country roads. If you compare this car, and to a lesser extent Rami�s 996, to a modern sports car, one of the primary things you�ll notice is the substantial compliance over rough pavement. This car has relatively large sidewall tires over small diameter wheels, the opposite of sports cars today. Combine that with plenty of suspension travel, and it soaks up asphalt patches, bridge transitions, and camber changes in a way that few modern cars can. The steering also shines on these country roads. With no power assist and a large steering wheel, you can feel every undulation and change in grip. This is especially welcome given an old 911�s unusual weight-transfer dynamics. The engine is fully behind the back wheels, and you feel that far more in this 911 than in Rami�s all-wheel-drive 996. On a gravel strewn corner, his car stayed planted at speed while mine oversteered dramatically. Since I enjoy catching a slide, this was a bonus. But for those who prefer stability over drama, the 996 is a better fit. As for power, this car provides plenty of torque and a willingness to rev, but cannot match the pure speed of modern Porsches. This drivetrain is for those who prefer drama to outright power. Back out on the highway, this car easily kept pace with modern traffic and the 993 seats are among the most comfortable I have sat in. Air conditioning is the weak link in old 911�s, though this particular one benefits from substantial upgrades. While this car is not the effortless cruiser of Rami�s 996, it does not exhaust you or strand you on long trips like so many classic cars. The verdict. Rami: It was a perfect day and so much fun to drive these two cars back-to-back. Despite their differences, you can immediately tell one descends from the other thanks to their unmistakable shape. Our little convoy turned heads as the 911 is universally recognized and loved. Now to pick a winner. If I had to have just one car to drive every day, I would choose the 996. Comfortable, great air conditioning, easy clutch and shifter and good sound insulation makes it an easy daily driver that can go anywhere, yet still be fun when the roads get curvy. The air-cooled 911 feels special, but with its heavy shifting and old-school air conditioning, it would be too much for many on the daily commute. That said, you can�t exactly go wrong with either. People around the world praise 911�s of any generation, and drive them daily even with 100K, 200K and more on the odometer. The 911 of any generation was made to be driven, not garaged. So just choose whichever one you personally find more fun to drive. They are also depreciation proof. As long as you buy it right, paying attention to previous maintenance and condition, it is one of the few sports cars that you can drive without the fear of losing money with every passing mile. Blake: On twisty backroads, you can�t lose no matter which of these cars you choose. I have driven many modern cars, some much faster than either of these. And yet none of them are as enjoyable on tight roads as these. Both are engaging and reward a driver�s skill without compromising comfort and reliability. Your choice will really come down to your personal preferences and needs. Note that neither are practical for a family. The back seats are seats in name only - my kids outgrew them by 10. So realistically, these are both two-seat sports cars. So what do you most value in a sports car? Speed or drama? Daily usability or occasion? Relaxed fun or intense concentration? If the former, the 996 is your match. If the latter, then like me you will be hard pressed to find a more rewarding car to drive than an air-cooled 911.

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To all that have provided the great input, I really appreciate the insight. @Porschetech3 My current daily is a Volvo XC90 w/ the (Yamaha designed) V8. Its the "Executive" edition, fully loaded and that V8 is great engine. Interestingly the first versions of the V8 suffered from a bearing failure on the balance shaft. The cure for the early versions was to drill a hole to allow oil circulation as they came with sealed bearings (ala some of IMS solutions). Volvo incorporated oil circulation in the later designes and they were mostly trouble free but it is expensive to repair. Parts can be pricy and access to the engine is just impossible. I have 79k trouble free miles. But, I will be selling the Volvo and replacing it with a 911. The XC90 shares daily duties with my Suburban. but..... My Suburban has the 5.3 Vortec sitting at 175k, super reliable and inexpensive to maintain. I have no plans to sell her and budgeting for a "makeover" w. new paint and some interior freshing. My wife's car is a 2005 Mercedes CLK500 Cabriolet. She loves that car, actually I do too. It was my first venture into Mercedes and I have to say it's been extremely reliable and (so far) pretty easy to work on. Lastly I have a MasterCraft inboard ski boat w/ a Ford 351w HO. Holley 4bbl, upgraded to electronic ignition but otherwise its as basic and bullet-proof as you can get IMO. SBC guys might argue but thats ok haha. I was lucky to be raised by a father who could rebuild everything from a Lycoming aircraft engine to helping me pull the engine from my MGB when I was 18 and doing a total rebuild. So, I guess I'm looking for a "part time daily driver" that will share duties with my Suburban, will see regular use but probably less than 10K miles/year. I work remote from home and when I travel for work, I rent a car of fly. So I don't have a work commute to deal with. I have a roll cab full of tools, a welder, scan tools - but I'm getting too old to enjoy rolling around on the floor wrestling heavy, oily parts off an engine and too cheap to pay someone so most all of the 996 upkeep is on me. Reliability is important and the reason I've gravitated towards the 996 with an understanding there might be some sorting out needed but once sorted will be solid. This is an amazing community of 996 supporters, thanks again!

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From your different posts it sounds like you are approaching 996 ownership from a good perspective. I am a 21 year 996.2 owner that would do it all over again. Just an all around incredible car. You know the routine, you gotta buy one that has been properly serviced with all of the right parts replaced when they should have been replaced. You get this info from the service history. IMSB, water pump, aos, etc. You also want to make sure the bores are in good shape. No reason it's can't be a daily driver. The key is to make sure the you understand that its a 20+ year old car with plastic, rubber and metal bits that wear over time. So the more time and money you spend on refreshing the car up front, the more bullet proof it will be as a dd. Good luck with finding the right one. Its out there.

I'll give you my perspective as a first time Porsche owner who bought a 996 five months ago. Like you, I was considering an air-cooled model, as well as a Cayman. I ended up going with the 996 because the value was just too good to pass up. I might have spent more money if the discount for the 996 hadn't been as much as it was, but I just felt like the value was so outrageously good I had to go that route. I don't regret it for a second. I absolutely love the car, and have been able to put some of the remaining funds back into it by doing preventative maintenance earlier and will be making some cosmetic/utility updates that I otherwise probably wouldn't have (wheels refurbishment, paint correction, PPF, PCCM install, etc). I don't think you can go wrong with either route, but these are the reasons I went the way I did. Good luck!

if you're into "the culture", the brand, and "car-spotting", or more importantly being "spotted". if you aspire to have a large following on instagram and you want to turn heads on your sunday cruise... Nothing beats an air cooled. If you are looking for the best possible driving car, dollar for dollar, go with the 996.

Ive owned both the n/a and the turbo 996. Save up some more coin for turbo.

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The OP's rationale for the 996 is that it's lower in price, especially compared to air cooled. A clean 996 turbo, you're looking at $65k, $70k easy these days (those days for finding them under $40k are long gone).

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True, but once the M96 tax is paid you're nearly there.

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I agree that it is cheaper in the beginning, but OP factored in a 30k rebuild. thats puts them squarely in the 65k range all in. You might as well just buy the turbo and have a better car to begin with.

I owned and daily drove a 69 911T, most reliable low maintenance car I ever owned including a 85 Toyota Truck. Tuneup was a 30 minute job in my garage, Mine had Cast Iron cylinders. It was a energizer bunny of a car. I miss the full on go-kart feel and the sound of 6 webber butterflies opening... It was not as fast off the line as almost any modern car but in the turns the bugger was amazing. Symmetric tires and wheels all the way around and I did 16 hour non stops in the thing multiple times.. It just fit me. Mine had a 5 speed touring transmission so it was happy at about 100 without a break.. My 996 is a beast compared to it. The 69 was better in the snow!

Call it what it is. The air cooled provides a different experience both driving and ownership. No need to provide details. Everyone here knows what I mean. Overall drivability (not necessarily driving experience), the 996 beats out any factory air cooled including most turbos. Faster, quieter, working heat and AC. I bought a 996 because I missed the air cooled boat and the air cooled just got super expensive. In 2013 I should have bought the air cooled white on white turbo for $45K lol. I chose the 996 vs later models because in my mind, it is the closest to an air cooled: smaller than 997/991/992. No wing (I don't like permanent whale tails). Very Happy So Far and would not go air cooled at this point (unless it is a bug or ghia which may happen soon).

Oh yea,, My 69 didn't have air, had a better stereo, it was like Harley, a little loud, a little primitive but in some instances it was just too dang fun. Heck It took < 30 minutes drop the motor.. In a lo too ways it was a bug with way better handling..

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I think that is an opinion. Personally, having driven quite a few different 911 years/variants and sat right seat in even more, both on and off the track, I have no interest in a forced induction AWD car. I don�t like the power delivery and dislike the AWD even more. Just not what I want in a sports car. I would 100% take a well built 4.0 over a turbo any day at the exact same price point.

I currently own a 2002 996 Carrera Tiptronic as a daily driver. I also have a ‘01 996 Turbo, 88 Carrera, ‘77 911S and two cayennes. Of all these cars the ‘05 Cayenne is the best daily if fuel consumption is not an issue for you. It's the most comfortable, practical, hauls and tows, and was cheapest to buy used. As the 911’s go, the 996 Carrera is best as a daily. The 996 Turbo and both air cooled’s are an event to drive. While fun, the air cooled are not practical, comfortable or inexpensive to own. I also worry about parking or leaving them anywhere. A/C is nonexistent on the air cooled cars. The problem I have with the 996 Carrera is that, while relatively cheap to buy, they are very expensive to rebuild. And they will all need IMS/AOS/bore scoring rebuild, etc, etc. So if you buy an M96 you will pay the “M96 Tax” someone referred to above. Based on your posts I’d recommend selling the Volvo and Suburban and get a Cayenne Turbo. If you must daily a sports car (I do) then get a 996 that’s been properly maintained and retrofitted/rebuilt or get a 996 Turbo. Skip the air cooled unless you want a toy.

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True. If you want power, and you're willing to drop the extra 30k on an aftermarket rebuild, I would probably go turbo as well. That's assuming you like forced induction, which isn't for everyone.

Yep, turbo is a great car, but it will cost a boat load of money as well to keep running. Every Porsche costs money. My vote is on a narrow body 996. But you get what you want. It's your money.

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Owning both a Cayenne and a newer (2021) Macan, if you don't need that extra space, the Macan is the go-to ride. It's still bigger than the 911, but drives respectably well. Also, the older Cayennes may have a cheap entry price, they have their foibles, too. Unfortunately, the days of affordable Porsches have slipped into the past. The 996 does have one of the lowest entry price, particularly for the 911, but these cars are two decades old and some parts are getting hard to find. One suggestion is to contact your local Porsche club (club president is a good place to start). You may find members that are looking to sell and with a little work come out with a good car at a better price than you find at auction or a dealer's lot. You also tend to be buying from an enthusiast with the support of like-minded club members.

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This was exactly me. I saved for several years hoping to find a nice air-cooled, and gave up after seeing the prices go into collector territory with no signs of coming back. So I moved my focus onto the 997.2 so I could have a PDK automatic (wife...). I had a dedicated Porsche fund built up to nearly $60k set aside when I stumbled on a thread talking about the early build '99s. A PDK failure or bore scoring issue would have been a killer on the $10-15k that might have been left in the Porsche/maintenance fund, but at $20k for a '99 I had more than enough left for fully sorting, paint correction, ceramic coating, upgrading the stereo, and still have enough left over for any catastrophic failures (I'm not worried). Six months later, and while I still like the looks of the 997 and think a PDK would have been fun (loved the samples I drove), I don't have any regrets and definitely don't feel as if I "settled" for less. It's an absolute blast to drive, and I don't stress that I overspent by pushing the limits of my dedicated budget.

My 2003 4s has been a great daily driver since 3/2019 (over 40,000 miles) and my 2009 4s (PDK) has also been a great dd since 4/2021 (over 25,000 miles). Both perform year round in all weather conditions. Great cars but they aren't cheap to maintain properly. The pleasure the cars give outweighs their costs!

I would say don't do what I did and buy the first 996 you see. But for me, it was love at first sight. I purchased it right before the whole bore scoring issue came into the spotlight. I had a PPI performed and was told bore scoring was rare, had the IMS replaced and thought I was done. Soon after found out I had all the symptoms of bore scoring. Nursed it for a few years and added about 10K miles on it while feeding it lots of oil. I finally got the rebuild and have to say I'd probably do it again (don't tell the wife). It's now a 3.8L with power everywhere, RWD, no nannies (ABS aside) and just awesome to drive. Pretty sure it's my forever car. Good luck with whatever you do.

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Who did the rebuild?

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Bodymotion in Ocean Twp. NJ

They. Are on my radar what did the rebuild cost you

Lots of really good perspectives and insights here, thanks everyone. Looking around the interwebs, this car is semi-local. I like the color combo but the option codes for wheels is �413 - 18" Lt Alloy Wheel- Turbo Look $1325�. However I do not think these are the original wheels? Can anyone confirm and if not original, any idea if they are Porsche or aftermarket? Would this lower the value of the car?

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These look like BBS sport design wheels. Not sure if real or Chinesium fake. https://www.redlineautoparts.com/por...et-of-4-p6013/ I dont think they would affect the price one way or the other.

I was in a similar situation too. I went with the C2 knowing it had some issues that might need sorting. But short of a rebuild, those are all still cheaper than buying a 997.2. So the 996 grew on me and now I love mine. Im also partial to it being the lightest watercooled option, and the sound with a Fister exhaust is intoxicating.

I checked out several used 996s earlier this week, at a high-end used vehicle dealership. The only service records for the cars are on the carfax report but they are agreeable to a delivering the car for a PPI.However, I find it interesting that even the highest recommended indy Porsche shop (with the highest price...almost $600) does not include scoping a single cylinder via spark plug, nor to they deem it all that necessary. The dealer has changed the oil recently so a UOA is of no value. The 996 with the BBS wheels pictured in the above post - had a coolant reservoir that was bone dry, I pointed that out to the sales guy and he said they "must have missed that". Ummm yeah, red flag for me. I'm super leary of used car dealers buying cars at auction, doing the bare minium maintenance to sell them. Possibly filling them with engine or system sealants as a temporary fix. Got home and read dealer google reviews...there are some pretty negative reviews followed by combative responses from the owner/gm. Quoting often the cars are sold AS IS- NO WARRANTY. Obviously this isn't the car or dealer for me. But my question remains re: PPI. If bore-scoring is such a wide-spread/eminent issue w/ the 996.2 why are indy shops not recommending or including it? And I talked to 4 well-known shops.

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scoping from the spark plugs wont necessarily show bore scoring, and removing spark plugs involves removing exhaust tips and mufflers, remove a heat shield, ignition coil and spark plug. It's not like a normal car where you just pop the hood and unscrew the coil. Cylinder 6 (which is on the passenger side, closest to the front of the car) is easily accessible by only removing the rear right wheel. but like I said sticking a borescope in there will only tell you if there is scoring in the top of cylinder 6, which I guess is better than nothing. if you really want to properly rule out scoring you'd have to drain the oil and drop the sump to scope the bottom of each cylinder, which would involve being charged for the oil change and new gasket for the sump. that dealer does sound like a hack, I think you're wise to keep looking

This is why i gave up on any dealerships and searched private sellers and eventually bought a local car on Bring a Trailer. The dealers also snag up cars and because porsches are typically not driven as much as the ****box camry's they are selling they say its 'low mileage' and throw that in your face every chance they get to justify the stupid high asking price. Low mileages is BAD in a car that needs to be driven to stay healthy. The higher profile auction sites ( BaT and Cars and Bids) attracts sellers of a higher caliber that know in order to get good money they need to do all the common sense inspections and provide records etc. My seller included oil analysis history, and bore scope pictures. I also found similar things with PPI's. It seems they want to keep the costs down so they dont include the bore scope. It took me over 2 hours to R&R the spark plugs, but for a shop I imagine till take a little over an hour maybe without the time of doing the bore scope? That could add 100-200$ to the PPI and turn customers off to it is my guess, but I agree it seems pretty damn important.

Bizarre circumstances backed me into forgoing a PPI (I learned from this board some things to look/listen for on a cold start) and I ended up doing a thorough post-purchase inspection from a great indy (Fisher in IL) which included a scope. I dodged a bullet and passed. Only minor sorting issues. The total post-purchase inspection, with scope, was only a few hundred dollars. Rick F said he checked the one cylinder most prone to scoring (#5 or 6?), and if that was fine the rest would/should be fine too. Maybe the shop you talked to was charging to scope all six?

Quotes source post: 18664028

Two things on a PPI. 1. You want them to drop the sump and see what bits are in there. 2. When you drop the sump, you want to scope it from the sump. In answer to your question, they don't drop the sump and scope it because it's a pain in the ***. Buyers get so excited about owning a 996 that they are willing to overlook these steps. Add: I am going to add one more point. BORESCORING is a relatively new issue. I have owned my 996 for 21 years and never heard of it until I joined RL in 2019. Common sense reasons why it happens and common sense reasons on how to prevent it. Most importantly to change your oil at the very least 2x a year. My info on the M96 came from the PCA DE and Club Racing community in partnership with my Indy. Borescoring comes from owners who don't change the oil and don't replace parts as they should. Many never drive the car as it should be driven. They keep it under 5k rpm and baby it. In contrast, the DE and Club Racing community over service their cars and drive their cars. Oil changes occur before they go on the track and right after. Hell, i have had over 82 oil changes since 2002. Approximately an oil change every 700 miles. The number of oil changes would be substantially higher but i haven't tracked my car much over the past 5 years. Just driving around town. This track community is more worried about preventing AOS failure, oil starvation and cooling issues with the proper parts and procedures than bore scoring. Think about it, they are running the best oil, its always fresh, the best fuel, and the spark plugs, ignition coils, fuel injectors and MAF are always fresh. As such, bore scoring is a non-event. So the indy community that supports DE and Club racing don't see it as much. FWIW. There is a lesson to be learned from the above paragraph. Hope folks eventually catch on.

The $600 quote did not include scoping of any type. All the indy shops I spoke with sponsor, compete in club and track events. I agree the sump also provides other peace of mind w/ timing chain pad wear, etc. and actually that has moved up to my #1 criteria. Couple of random thoughts.....I work on the 'back end' of consumer lending in the credit union industry. The volume of auto loans new and used are dropping like a lead balloon. I don't have a crystal ball but been around long enough to know when lending volume drops (demand), dealer inventory increases (supply) and both private party and dealer pricing decrease due to these market changes. Willing to wait and find the right car that checks out meanwhile waiting to see what happens to pricing over the next 6 months.

Quotes source post: 18664060

The best place to buy a used Porsche is going to be either with a respected member of Rennlist or from your local Porsche Club. Chances are that the purchase price may be cheaper and the seller more interested that the car goes to an enthusiast.

I did and couldn’t be happier