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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHThoughts on this 996 and shipping a car
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Inspect are a gamble
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Absolutely, all M9X based cars that don't have their engines inspected are a gamble.
Leading evidence: 'Inspect are a gamble' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Fill space' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I used Bears Transport to ship an old Mercedes from Utah to New York.
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First car I shipped I used a broker due to inexperience.
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For my 996 I used Passport, and the other 3 prior to that I used Intercity.
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For my 996 I used Passport, and the other 3 prior to that I used Intercity.
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Suggestion
IMHO if you're not experienced and don't feel comfortable dealing with transport companies and would rather have someone handle it for you, then I recommend Bob Muran at link I provided.
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I've found a 2002 cabriolet with 97,000 miles. The IMS has not been done. It's a 6 speed manual. The present owner has had it for 6 years as a weekend driver. Thoughts on this?
Also, has anyone shipped a car from out of state? I would be shipping it from Texas to Florida. What's the process and cost?
Thank you.
Feel free to PM for rates and schedules.
Find our reviews and reccomendations right here on Rennlist and 6speed on line
We offer all Rennlist members a discount .
Liz
Bears Transport
[phone removed]
[email removed]
This group is out of Florida and very reasonable on quotes and will take good care of your car. Ask for Brian Huff.
https://www.shipacarinc.com/
If you need a direct number, PM me.
I had to have my 996 shipped -- and have purchased 5 cars prior to that, that required being shipped. My advice would be to work directly with a shipping company (Intercity, Reliable, Passport, etc.) and not a broker. First car I shipped I used a broker due to inexperience. Second car also a broker because the seller offered to handle the shipping of the car. For my 996 I used Passport, and the other 3 prior to that I used Intercity.
All cars arrived in flawless condition, but the truckers arranged by brokers were a PITA -- mainly poor communication. Nothing negative to say about Passport, but Intercity will always be my go-to. Just a total class act operation with next-level customer service.
IMHO if you're not experienced and don't feel comfortable dealing with transport companies and would rather have someone handle it for you, then I recommend Bob Muran at link I provided. His charge is only $50 and he is a good negotiator to get the best price with the best transport company. Plus, it's all insured and he handles all the headaches with arranging pickup and arrival times. Bob@shipacarinc
Last summer I shipped my 996 unenclosed from Houston Texas to GA.(NE of Atlanta)
I had it shipped back enclosed from GA last month.
Unenclosed rate was just under $1 per mile.
Enclosed is closer to $1.50 per mile, unless you get lucky like I did and they want to fill space because they're headed to your area with a load.
Flat6Innovations took care of obtaining shippers.
All I had to do was pay for them.
Prices are up, but still reasonable as far as I was concerned.
I bought my car on BAT and the seller arranged to ship it. That was a mistake as the car was shipped on an open trailer operated by what I call a gypsy operator. It all worked out but I recommend paying for an enclosed trailer shipment. Not the place to try and save a few bucks.
I buy and sell cars all the time from out of state. It's very easy. Enclosed transport is almost double the price of open (in my experience at least). Is shipping open the cars usually arrive very, very dirty buy none of mine have had any damage from open transport. I use SGT all the time. They're pretty reasonable.
https://sgtautotransport.com/
I used Bears Transport to ship an old Mercedes from Utah to New York. Broker, yes, but turn around was great and car arrived before schedule and for a great price
Hahahah... there's truth in that statement. My wife didn't believe me until they drove up. All Russians. They were nice, took good care of my vehicle, but didn't speak a lick of English. haha. I already knew this since my nephew owns a dealership and most of the drivers from smaller transport companies are from Russia.
Bought mine on BAT too. Selling dealer recommend his transport company and to avoid BAT open transport. I def paid more, but the truck this guy had was amazing, and he moved very high end sports cars, so I didn't have any concerns about the entire process. From NC to CA.
My car's traveling companion (that's not my GT3
)
Absolutely, all M9X based cars that don't have their engines inspected are a gamble. The 2002 will have the M96.03 with the worst bearing of all three - 6204 single row. Plus, those engines are well known to suffer from cylinder bore scoring. You really should have the car checked out by a respected Porsche shop.
I bought a 1999 with 99k miles. No IMSB replaced. No records at all. Total gamble. The 99's do have the dual row bearing which makes them much less likely to have a IMSB failure. High mile cars are also sometimes seen to be safer investment because a lot of the big issues would have already happened.
IMSB however, is pobably the least of concerns. Bore scoring seems far more concerning.
Also, just keep in mind you'll need 5-10k buffer. When I got mine, I needed new tires ($1100), suspension refresh (mostly shocks, $3300), general post inspection ($500). I will next be doing fluid coolant flush and proactigly changing the water pump. And replacing all engine points and sleeves.
My clutch seems in excellent shape, and brakes aare 50%. So I can put that off, but assume clutch and probablu RMS while it's open.
Beyond engine, I need to do some cosmetic items, and porsche parts are $$$.
I knock wood every time I drive mine that I seem to have faired well in auction, and selling flipping dealer was truthful in his assesment of car. I am happy with what I paid and not sweating the $5-6k I've put into it from day 1. The car is incredible, and even though you worry with high mile cars, it doesn't detract from my driving and pushing it like it was meant to.
I think cars with near 100,000 miles are much less likely to be IMSB hand grenades than the cars with 25,000 miles at this point. I'd be more concerned with other health items like the health of the cylinder sleeves and water pump and injectors and timing chain guides and all that fun stuff. If your goal is to have preventative work done on the car then prepare to spend some substantial money on a 100,000 mile car. Because I'm not saying "ignore the IMSB," either.
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Getting some education here for myself.
What materials were better on early 99's?
From a visual perspective I've noticed most 99's have plastic dash's etc.
Saying a .1 is "definitely" less of a gamble than a .2 is complete nonsense. These are 19-24 year old cars...Porsches nonetheless. They all require due diligence.
OP, read through this thread, lots of good info:
Buying first porsche (996 with aero kit), any tips/suggestions? - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums
I kinda agree.
While the early 99s were most likely better built, the current conditions are more of a result of who owned them in the last 24 years, especially the last several years.
I've seen some ratty early 99s and some ratty 2000+ 996.
The best bet is finding a 996 that is currently owned by a fanatic with mild OCD who spends too much money on their 996. (Boy that sounds familiar)
I would not buy ANY 996 without an invasive PPI unless you have a hoard of parts big enough to restore the 996.
I have such a hoard of parts, but I don't really want to use it up on a ratty 996, no matter which year it is.
An invasive PPI is money well spent in my opinion, but it is no guarantee.
I bore scoped my (at the time) 64K mile 996.2 from the sump in November 2018 and found no bore scoring.
When my engine came apart for an elective rebuild in October 2022, there was evidence of pre-bore scoring.
The piston skirt was almost completely worn on 2 pistons.
Since I was being careful with my engine, it likely would have been a long while before it progressed, but progress it definitely would have.
If you use year as the only risk factor, pre April 98 is the best.
Followed by other 99 models.
Then skip to 2001. (Don't want Y2K syndrome as Jake calls it)
Then skip to 2003-2004. (2002s like to break chains)
Just my opinion, but always better to buy from an enthusiast. They're more likely to actually properly maintain and look after these cars. I just bought a 2000 Carerra with 87k miles, and the previous 2 owners kept steller records and it wanted for nothing. Some really nice cars out there and I wouldnt at all be concerned with a higher mileage car with the proper service records.
