996 Engine has sprung a bad oil leak, what’s this part?

On the nearside just in front of the exhaust manifold there is this round part - it’s leaking a lot - what is it? Thanks

Perhaps the AOS is above it and the leak is from there?

Cam chain Tensioner New alu washer needed if it is that but as Richie says could be from above. Oil will pour out if you undo it before draining the oil

If not from the aos then as Uncle Monty has already said it is the chain tensioner. They all do that sir (leak) and the job is simple. Just to add that there are 2 rubber seals to change as well as the aluminium washer

I have cut and pasted this from a previous posting to help you. This is the approved way to do it but I and others have done it without locking everything up. The picture shows what the tensioner looks like when out. The one shown is the rear tensioners but they are similar. There are 2 methods but i will stick to how i did it last week on my new 997 engine. 1. Rotate the engine to top dead centre and insert suitable size drill bit into the hole which locks the crankshaft. You will see a nick in the front pully which aligns with the TDC mark on the block. 2. Pick out the green cam seal plugs and insert the cam lock tool 3. Using a 32mm socket remove the leaking cam chain tensioner 4. Replace the little green oil seal and the aluminium washer and refit, tightening to 80nm or 59 ft lbs 5. Remove cam lock and fit 2 x new green cam seal plug, then remove the drill bit locking the crank to TDC. JOB DONE. The other way is to go straight to 3 and 4. It worked for me and for a former Porsche mechanic who told me how to do it. But then it was my choice. The costs are minimal. The aluminium washer and the oil seal are about £3, and the green cam seals are about £10 each!!! It is usually the ally ring which rots out as you can see from the picture. My ones were OK but on their way out but for £1 well worth doing. If you do method 1 then change the seal and washer on the right hand tensioner. They are better protected and do not usually fail but whilst your doing the LH tensioner etc etc. In the final picture I have shown the block water drain plug (the small sump plug) and the oil pressure relief valve which can also leak but i have yet to see on do so. Just to add you will lose a little oil when you remove the chain tensioner, not too much but have a pan handy I hope this helps. Having posted this, i have a feeling that it is not your tensioner that is leaking. Can you take a close up of where the leak is? Attachments​ 1. locked crank at TDC showing pulley mark and TDC mark on the block.jpg 1.8 MB · Views: 17 2. locked crank and camshaft.jpg 2.3 MB · Views: 16 3. LH cam chain tensioner showing rubber oil seal and aluminium washer.jpg 2.6 MB · Views: 15 4. Aluminium washer showing corrosion.jpg 2.6 MB · Views: 12 5. LH Tensioner, painted and back in position.jpg 2.7 MB · Views: 11 6. RH tensioner painted and back in position.jpg 2.9 MB · Views: 12 7. Oil pressure relief valve and block water drain plug.jpg 3.4 MB · Views: 15

A note on the green cam seals mentioned above. They have gone brown! I picked some up fairly recently and thought I had been given the wrong ones by the OPC parts team. They reassured me that there were in fact correct, as indeed they turned out to be.

Thanks for all the responses, much appreciated

Quotes source post: 2800456

Thanks that’s fantastic Martin. I’m not sure if it’s coming from above - what would that be? I will have a look tomorrow and try and get better pics.

I just swapped out the chain tensioner. These parts tend to rust and sometimes leak. Occasionally, it’s just the washer that needs replacing, but in my case, I had to replace the entire tensioner. There are two types: the horizontal one with two circles and the vertical one with a single circle. I actually ordered the wrong one at first, but luckily OPC in Swindon allowed me to exchange it for the correct part.

Ok, it’s the tensioner. It’s dry above. I’m going to get a quote for it as I want it done quickly. More pics. The first is directly above the tensioner.

Ok, I got a quote from Kent Porsche £211 all in, which I think is pretty reasonable. That’s for the seals and washers in both bottom tensioners.

Are they sure it’s not the tensioner itself? That seems expensive for what is basically two screw items to be removed and new washers installed. Locking the engine out is a two minute job and both tensioners 5 mins each.

O ring can be bought for £0.38p Crush washer £0.80p (from D911) + post Could be changed in about 10 minutes max once on the ramp or on the drive , just done mine. They would most likely drain the oil though...maybe they're including new oil ?

1 Hour labour and £2 in parts. Go elsewhere.

I once did mine at work on Boxing Day whilst the spuds were on the boil and it's 10 minutes either way to get there.