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YOUR RESEARCH996 Pccb nut / bolt mounting kit?
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Check 1st
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Read evidence and context
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Suggestion · Original poster
Rear bobbin part number is 964.351.437.81 but I've not ordered one so to any ordering check 1st.
Leading evidence: 'Check 1st' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check 1st' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Check common difference between a2 and a4 stainless steel fasteners
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Suggestion
Check common difference between a2 and a4 stainless steel fasteners.
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Suggestion
These should be close to what you need, but I stress, check your existing screws before ordering.
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Suggestion
IIRC they’re M5 (don’t quote me, measure yours) and roughly 50mm long, again check the length of your existing screws.
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Suggestion
Is it a case of just replacing the bolt or do they need re-balancing?
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Suggestion · Original poster
In the long distant future If I feel the need to use the discs I now have as spare I may need to look into balancing but my plan was to go with surface transform discs once mine are dead.
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By nuts you mean the bobbins ?
The screws/bolts can be bought from ACCU UK.
Use Grade A4 stainless items.
IIRC they’re M5 (don’t quote me, measure yours) and roughly 50mm long, again check the length of your existing screws.
These should be close to what you need, but I stress, check your existing screws before ordering.
https://www.accu.co.uk/shop/precision-components/precision-screws/button-head-screws/torx-button-screws?Finish=Natural&Length+%28L%29=50mm&Material=Marine+Stainless+Steel+%28A4%29&Thread+Size=M5+%285mm%29&Torx+Size=T25&page=1
Make you use Loctite, and you may need stainless washers under the heads of the screws,. They’ll be available from ACCU also.
If you’re missing bobbins as well, you’ll struggle to buy them.
If you’ve got a pattern, I can get them made.
Your a gent, thank you. Its just the bolt / washer I have not lost a bobbin thankfully. In my google searching I found it stated that the bolts for the front are m5x60 a2-70 Trox but I've pick up a set of recked discs cheaply I plan to strip down later today to take a look and measure up.
Bobbin are interesting as it look as if the rear is available as its used on the cup car and 964 but the front is a different shape.
Rear bobbin part number is 964.351.437.81 but I've not ordered one so to any ordering check 1st.
thanks
Just a quick heads up, the bobbins are crushed to provide a self locking facility, they’re single use items, hence it’s imperative you use Loctite on them when assembling them.
A4 is a higher grade, more heat and corrosion resistant stainless steel, that’s stronger than A2 grade:
Difference between A2 and A4 stainless steel fasteners bolts
Check common difference between a2 and a4 stainless steel fasteners. Complete information about A4 and A2 Hex Bolts, Screw, Nuts, Stud Bolt and Threaded rod.
www.oshwin.com
I’ve seen the heads fall off the OE A2 disc to bell securing screws due to corrosion, heat cycling/repeated thermal expansion.
The A4 screws maybe a little bit more expensive, but they’re worth the additional cost.
One other point, don’t overtighten the A4 screws as they’ll gall and you’ll not be able to undo them.
There are anti-galling compounds specifically for application to stainless fasteners, but they’re not cheap, especially for the amount you’ll be using !
This is actually reasonably priced :
INOX GARD Stainless Steel Anti Seize Paste
INOX GARD Stainless Steel Assembly Paste 40g Pen INOX Gard white assembly paste is a high quality, high pressure, high temperature anti-cracking…
www.steelropes24.co.uk
But as you’ll be using Loctite on the thread, you can’t really use anti-galling compound too …
Don’t forget to index each of the bells and discs you’re using, and then make sure not to move them relative to each other. They’re balanced assemblies and need to remain in the same position relative to each other to remain in balance.
It may be an optical illusion, but is the LH bobbin in that picture bent ?
Those bolts look pretty corroded …
Make sure you clean up the bobbins and any sleeves they run in too
I don't believe it is bent but will double check.
I've sold the rear centres and bobbins and did not take care when stripping tbh. The shipping address is to Redisc in Slovenia so these will get rebuilt to spec. 3 out of 4 of the discs are ok with the 4th needing a minor repair. I've got a calibrated digital micrometre (25-50mm) on route so I can measure the thickness properly on the remaining 3.
In the long distant future If I feel the need to use the discs I now have as spare I may need to look into balancing but my plan was to go with surface transform discs once mine are dead.
I doubt there will be much difference between the weight of each screw. Just get the same spec, length and material. People change clutch screws without rebalancing.
