108k mi DD '02 996 C4S going in for clutch and IMS and ???

So I am finally taking the plunge. My biggest planned expenditure on the car. I have done over $11k of maintenance and repairs over the last nearly 2 yrs and this one is projected to be $3100 if I do not need a flywheel and $4000 with dual mass flywheel. Car developed some clutch slippage and I always did worry about IMS issues...car has some indication that IMS might have been done at 77k mi (now has 108k), but I never saw any evidence of clutch! Orig clutch 108k mi!!! and likely orig. IMS at 108k mi and you know, it is probably fine. I will be super curious to note the condition of the IMS when it comes out. I do not think RMS is slated for this...but if it seems to be leaking, I imagine the guys at Aaron's Autowerks in Phoenix, OR will sort it out. They are so slick in getting me in...will let me drive back a new lease car loaner back to the coast (2 hrs each way for me). What else should I be considering when the tranny is out...told them to look at tranny mount (is a 6MT). any other items I should be considering? AOS has not been replaced to my knowledge but no signs of issue. coolant tank and water pump already done. radiators done. what else? throttle body cleaned, MAF done, 02 sensors done...might be time for a brake check...did them all around rotors pads and bled...time to do the bleed again. oil just changed, otherwise, this car is highly maintained and I will look forward to running in to 130k mi and then I will sell. I have not been happy with the values for these cars, excepting that I get to drive a super car for less than a new mustang GT premium (all told). p

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While I am reluctant to fix things that aren't broke, with the transmission out and with 108K miles on the original (?) AOS I'd be tempted to have the AOS done if you can get some price break. If no price break then you have to decide if you want to postpone this. I can tell you my experience with my 2002 Boxster is the AOS lasts between 80K and 100K miles. In this same vein, I'd seriously consider having the RMS replaced, even if it is not leaking. Had the tranny out of my 2003 Turbo in 2010 with under 40K miles to be replaced because of a leaking seal and the RMS was fine. In 2014 with 120K miles the RMS was leaking and had to be replaced. If brake fluid has not been flushed/bled within the last 2 years, or is close to being 2 years since it was last done I'd have this done. Be sure the clutch hydraulic system is also flushed and bled at the same time. How about a tranny/diff fluid service? I have these done on schedule for both of my cars. The techs should check the CV boots and if they are cracked or split advise you to have these replaced. The CV bearings can be cleaned, inspected, and if found OK repacked with grease and the shafts reused. The throttle body should not need to be cleaned. If the coolant has some years on it I like to have this drained and the cooling system refilled with fresh coolant every 4 to 5 years.

+1 on doing the RMS too. I had the AOS done, but as the engine stayed in the car I was told it didn't really save anything. So doing it now vs waiting until there is sign of a problem probably won't change much. The only other arguments I'd add is that if you have the money to do it now, get it out of the way now versus waiting until it goes and you might be a tighter on funds. Having to do our coil packs a couple months after all that other work was also really irritating (I decided against it at the time as it would again not save me any money), so consider how you'll feel if your AOS starts to act up so soon after having all this other work done. By the same vein of my last arguments and experience, do your coil packs and plugs too if they haven't already been done. It didn't cost me anymore to wait, but it sure was irritating to have another $1000 bill so shortly after a $11k bill... If you do the coils/plugs, scope the top end of the motor too. Since you have an AWD model, get the flex disk for the front driveshaft done too.

Axle boots. They are perishables. Half of the shaft is loose now. Release bearing(may be in the kit). Clutch arm ball cup stuff. Check clutch slave seal and boot.