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YOUR RESEARCH996 Fuel injectors for 3.4 bored to 3.6
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Suggestion · Original poster
As a NorCal guy, what is your "smog check" experience with flashing?
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Suggestion
If you change injectors, you'll need to change the programing so that the ECU "knows" what the flow rate will be for a given input.
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Suggestion
If you change injectors, you'll need to change the programing so that the ECU "knows" what the flow rate will be for a given input.
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Suggestion
Mine is a 2000, so a dyno test isn�t required.(thank goodness� but 99s have the cable throttle so it may be worth the headache)
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Not every car will require this procedure to be done, and I�m not sure if the selection process is indeed random - or if the test machine will select the oft-flashed vehicles.
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Years ago, when they began to smog test, my cousin and I managed to weld a thin metal pipe to the exhaust and fit a small tank of compressed air inside the space between the trunk wall so that I could pass the test.
Test my00 and newer vehicles: the smog tech is supposed
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From my observation, and conversations with my smog tech, I�ve recently noticed a new, random addition to the typically boring smog test for MY00 and newer vehicles: the smog tech is supposed to rev the car in park/neutral.
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Any thoughts about upgrading injectors on a 3.4 M96 bored and nickel sleeved to 3.6? Wondered if a GT2 or 3 injector would be a good mod, but don't want to create something "too rich" in fuel either. The 1999 motor was rebuilt and updated to 04 standards. IPD plenum, 3.6 997 airbox, etc.
Thanks.
You�d probably be best served switching to 996.2 injectors, which were designed for a 3.6L M96.
If you want to get more precise, you�ll want to get your DME flashed/tuned on a dyno with some wideband oxygen sensors.
996 GT2 and Turbo injectors are 44 pound per hour flow rate suitable for 400-500 crank HP. That is going to be too much for an M96 as your fuel trims will end up being -25% or so.
That's what, about 7% increase? Should be no issue on the stock fuel system.
If you change injectors, you'll need to change the programing so that the ECU "knows" what the flow rate will be for a given input.
Thanks to all of you so far....Love all the input! So far it seems like simply upgrading to the 996.2 is the safest option, going GT2 requires further adjustments if that proves to be an option. Need to know more on that. Wary of chipping or flashing the car as I've heard that CA has a way of knowing (even if it's reversed) at smog time.
As a NorCal guy, what is your "smog check" experience with flashing? My 99 is still a dyno job. I heard they can tell if the car has been tampered with.
I think you�ve heard correct.
Mine is a 2000, so a dyno test isn�t required.(thank goodness� but 99s have the cable throttle so it may be worth the headache)
I haven�t flashed my DME - it�s running completely stock maps - so I haven�t encountered any roadblocks.
From my observation, and conversations with my smog tech, I�ve recently noticed a new, random addition to the typically boring smog test for MY00 and newer vehicles: the smog tech is supposed to rev the car in park/neutral.
The smog tech told me it�s been implemented by the state to check if there are any unauthorized flashes done to the ECUs, and it appears to be random. Not every car will require this procedure to be done, and I�m not sure if the selection process is indeed random - or if the test machine will select the oft-flashed vehicles.
Given that your car is a 99 and requires a dyno test, it doesn�t make sense for it to have the aforementioned procedure to be done. But I�m very much an outsider when it comes these things, so you might want to ask some more knowledgeable folks in your area, like professional tuners or smog station employees. Bonus points if you find someone that has a solid understanding of both fields.
The 3.4 injectors are 42pph? That sounds excessive for ~300 crank hp. Must run very low duty cycles. The 6Turbo hits 100% injector duty on a stock tune so those injectors are definitely undersized.
Years ago, when they began to smog test, my cousin and I managed to weld a thin metal pipe to the exhaust and fit a small tank of compressed air inside the space between the trunk wall so that I could pass the test. I would reach behind the seat and turn on the air, and pass the test. When I got home, I would remove the tank and plug the pipe.
