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YOUR RESEARCH996.2 Carrera - Suspension Question
Leading reported evidence
Check condition of the tie rods and lower control arms
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Suggestion
Check the condition of the tie rods and lower control arms.
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Suggestion
But any improvement resulting from changing track, scrub, CoG, etc; is good.
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Hi Everyone,
First post. Hopefully this all makes sense.
I've just bought 2004 996 Carrera with 117,000 km (Aussie here) on the clock. Suspension is tired and the PPI recomended a refresh.
Car has original dampers at the front and 10 year old Koni Sport (30,000 km ) on the rear. Known issues are missing bump stops, drop links are dead and 'maybe' lots of bushings have cracks (the maybe has a story but I digress). Rear Konis are not leaking. Ride height is ROW (i.e not M030)
Here's where I'm stuck (well, there's other areas I'll have questions for but I'll stick with the damper conundrum).
Bilstein B4?
Bilstein B6?
Koni Special Active?
Koni Sport?
What am I looking for?
I want the car in the road and not on the road. I'm looking for something that will be reasonably compliant in/around the city but come alive on fast twisty country roads in my state (New South Wales). I don't want something that will be easily upset. There may be track time but I'm not overly keen on pushing a 20 year old car around a track. Too brutal.
I'm leaning towards Koni Sport (if nothing else it might mean a slightly less spend given the existing rears might be ok) but then I spiral down the YT rabbit hole of mono vs twin tubes and so on.
The car currently rides on N4s but more then likely will switch to Pilot Sport 5s which I know have a slightly stiffer sidewall.
So, over to the more learnered community. I'm really interested in hearing from those who may have experiecing driving/riding in 996s supported by any of my options.
Cheers
Justin
Ps Photo attached because, why not!
I have Koni yellows (I think they might be your 'Sport' model) and like them. I would have gone for Koni Actives but it was covid and no availability. I think you should budget for replacement of all of the suspension arms, shock tops, and other rubber bits while you are at it. Those will age out over time, not just miles.
OP - Welcome! You’ll get more replies from the crowd soon. Several gents from Oz are active here. General consensus is after 80,000-100,000 km the suspension gets tired. My input is widen your track and lower your CoG. Row height is only 10mm lower in front than US (rear same as US). Even a mild 10mm rear and 7mm front spacing will reduce body roll quite a lot and help turn-in. About the only mild lowering choices I know of are the M030 and Eibach Pro springs. Koni Actives seem to be a good value. A stiffer rear sway will help fight understeer.
Short story for value play: Spacers and new front Koni Sports. Drop links are cheap. May need to replace sway bushings. Check the condition of the tie rods and lower control arms. The TRW and Meyle stuff isn’t horribly expensive. Get an alignment and drive it for 500 miles with the new tires at 241front/269 rear kPa. You’ll probably be pretty happy.
From there, the rabbit hole gets slippery and deep.
As above and fit new bump stops!
Spacers are negligible in reducing roll: 14 mm at the front by means of 2x7 spacers increases track width ~1% and therefore roll angle by ~1%.
They improve the looks though!
True. Small beans. But any improvement resulting from changing track, scrub, CoG, etc; is good. Better when it�s cheap.
On the lighter side, if you take the fronts to 15mm, you�ll more than double the roll reduction over 7mm spacer to 2%. Double! If you put 15mm on the rear you�d have a lower wheelbase/track width ratio than the 991.2 GT3RS.
And you�re right about the looks.
NSW roads are appalling, after all the recent rain. The rubbers and Konis are restorative to a factory good handling car. You sound like you love driving. Don't you want any adjustibility such as sway bars. Or as everything is being done coilovers can be adjusted and sprung to NSW quality roads...
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