Seized Spark Plugs

Hello all, 2009 Base here.40K. Car runs great but looking to change spark plugs and coil packs, as routine maintenance. The plugs are very stiff, ( I have not forced anything). Sprayed PB Blaster and lightly tapped with a hammer to vibrate and hopefully help penetration. Has anyone tried heating up the engine and attempting removal while hot? And yes, an easy way to hamburger an arm or hands. Please sound off on any ideas, tips or tricks. I have looked at all the available Youtube videos, but always more comfortable with P car specific solutions. Thank you, ALL in advance!!

You might want to consider taking it to a shop and having them done in a situation like this. But if you choose to soldier on, make sure you have a variety of long and short extensions so you can be as square on each plug as possible, might want to consider trying a different penetrant as I’ve never really thought much of PB blaster , it’s just easy to find.

Dead cold seems to be better than warm on these engines. They are likely to feel si tight you think they are seized, but come out fine. Once they crack, use a little more penetrationg lube and go back and forth slowly.

Use progressive force too

acetone and atf is my go to thread releaser.....

Any service history come with the car? You didn't say if the plugs have ever been replaced. FYI, I replaced mine after 10 yrs and 86K miles. They were stiff to remove but I never felt like I was going to snap one off. I did the 1st bank with the engine warm but the next day I did the other cold. I don't recall much difference in effort. As Boris mentioned, you need a lot of different elbows and extensions. I used a swivel spark- plug socket so I could have the option of getting at it from various angles. While replacing, be sure to get it started by hand (put the plug in the socket and turn the socket by hand a few turns). If you can't, back it out and try again. Don't use any thread lubricant with the new plugs, and if you used any penetrating oil removing the old plugs, try cleaning the head threads. Unfortunately, torqing the new plugs using extra elbows isn't going to be precise. I had to WAG a few times. You get a feel for "good enough" after a few.

I think storage indoor or outdoor could have some effect on this. I pulled mine at the 10 year mark because I was concerned about seizing based on all the things I’ve read here, they came out quite easily. Be mindful of the swivel sockets that RSchwerer mentioned, I used them too. They are critical to have. But if you don’t have a lot of experience with those, you can also have the plug cocked off square and that is very no bueno. As stated, if you can’t start them with your fingers on the applied extension, back out and try again.

Thank you all for the inputs and tips!! I do have all the swivel extensions and have performed fluids, serpentine belt, bump stops, headliner removals, etc. maintenance on the car. A Quick Jack pays for itself after a few oil and brake fluid renewals! The plugs have never been out. At this time, I have buttoned everything up and have decided to leave this one to a pro shop. My gut suggests that the price to pay for a muck up, is not worth the risk. I will report back with the results and any gems gleaned from the pros. Thank you all again!

If you did all that work, you could have done this. I don't recall reading about anyone screwing up. It just "feels" like you are.

Actually, I recall a thread where somebody broke a plug inside of the head, they tried many suggestions here but still ended up in a repair shop. If he feels the plugs are tight this is the best money he will ever spend. Like Clint said “ a good man has got to know his limitations” . You could be 100% right N_Jay but going into any repair without confidence is a bad start. It sounds like he has saved labor on many other repairs so paying it on a set of plugs for peace of mind? Right call, just my thoughts you guys.

Thank you for the vote of confidence. It is not a complex job and I do have all the correct tools and a lift. Unfortunately, the price to pay for snapping a plug , (they have been in there 17 years) is not worth the risk, or having to flat bed the car 100+ miles to a shop. I live deep in the mountains of western North Carolina, so we are talking a tow down to the Atlanta area. Over the years of ownership I have saved thousands, so although not tasteful, I can justify the expense of this particular job. I do appreciate all the support and advice from the group!

100% my thoughts exactly! The price for a muck up is not worth the risk and you are correct in that I have saved thousands in labor, not to mention the satisfaction and enjoyment of jobs well done and learning how to work on these cars. These are probably the last of the PCars that one can actually perform a majority of the maintenance.

I had a bear of a time removing the original plugs from my 987.2 at 11 years old with 32,000 miles. I know there are some out there that will disagree, but I applied anti-seize to the threads of the new plugs. If you do that, you will never have a problem removing them. Ever. We're not talking about head bolts that require a specific torque, and sequence. They're spark plugs . No different than any other engine.

I’ve found that using a short 6-8” piece of 1/4” vacuum hose works well to start plugs especially in hard to reach areas, little or no chance of cross threading compared to something solid like a metal extension.

As long as you make sure to keep the first few threads clean not to get any antiseize in the combustion chamber and reduce your tightening torque.