Battery trickle charge - 718 GT4 - Page 2 - Boxster/Cayman - PistonHeads UK

I’ve just bought a 718 GT4 and would like to use a trickle charger when not in use, particularly over winter where it’ll see less frequent use. Recommendations for a charger and also attachment method? I’ve seen mixed reviews on CTEK but understand this is what Porsche sell albeit unbranded. Also, what about attaching via the 12V socket in the passenger footwell versus direct to the battery? I’m looking for the most convenient method.

CTEK MXS 5.0 is excellent. Use the terminal connector. Positive to the battery terminal and negative to the spare strut top bolt hole. You can then run the lead out through the hand grip of the plastic battery cover. Then just use the CTEK extension lead, take it out by the wipers or out of the frunk at the front. The frunk seal easily closes over the lead. Maybe sounds complicated but so easy. Edited by JurassicGTS on Wednesday 4th September 22:14 Edited by JurassicGTS on Wednesday 4th September 22:14

Also use CTek via the socket in footwell on ours, had car 2 years, been good as gold

nammynake said: I’ve just bought a 718 GT4 and would like to use a trickle charger when not in use, particularly over winter where it’ll see less frequent use. Recommendations for a charger and also attachment method? I’ve seen mixed reviews on CTEK but understand this is what Porsche sell albeit unbranded. Also, what about attaching via the 12V socket in the passenger footwell versus direct to the battery? I’m looking for the most convenient method. [url][img]https://forums- I use the CTEK & just charge via the smoking pack wrongly or rightly. Been doing it for 6 years and no problem. Very easy images.piston heads.com/569950/202409052823164?resize=720[/img]|https://forums-images.pistonheads.com/569950/202409052823164[/url]

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CTEK MXS 5.0 for me too. I use the socket in the passenger footwell but whatever works for you. Battery clip as outlined above, or you can get the hardwire option. For me: Charger> CTEK extension lead > "cigar lighter" adapter and run it out the driver's side door. There's a divot formed into the underside of the door specifically to help routing the thin cable, run your hand under the door and you'll soon find it. Doing it this way means I'm not going to drive off with it attached! If using the passenger footwell socket just be aware that approximately 30 mins after switch off the ignition the car isolates this socket if not in use. Simply attach and start charging before that time and it stays live and charging continues uninterrupted. If you have frequent power cuts then this could lead to charging stopping, going direct to the battery gets around this as the charger should just restart in the same charging mode it was using before the power was cut off. I use the AGM option which charges at the slightly higher voltage than "normal" (14.7 vs 14.4v) , but still comfortably below what the car will charge at when using Sport mode (up to 15.3v).

JurassicGTS said: CTEK MXS 5.0 is excellent. Use the terminal connector. Positive to the battery terminal and negative to the spare strut top bolt hole. You can then run the lead out through the hand grip of the plastic battery cover. Then just use the CTEK extension lead, take it out by the wipers or out of the frunk at the front. The frunk seal easily closes over the lead. Maybe sounds complicated but so easy. Edited by JurassicGTS on Wednesday 4th September 22:14 Edited by JurassicGTS on Wednesday 4th September 22:14 Yep… my preferred method…

I did same on 992 ( what Li ) but I didn't like the unprotected permeant wire to battery , so bought and spliced in an inline fuse ( 10A ) on +ve Paranoia , in case of CTEK misbehaviour or trapping the red wire . Surprised CTEK does not include the fuse Saying that I use the LiPo version and a standard version of the 5A Ctek chargers and never skipped a beat in few years now. Edited by PM3 on Thursday 5th September 10:14

HighwayStar said: Yep… my preferred method… Exactly thanks for saving me trawling through old photos

PM3 said: I did same on 992 ( what Li ) but I didn't like the unprotected permeant wire to battery , so bought and spliced in an inline fuse ( 10A ) on +ve Paranoia , in case of CTEK misbehaviour or trapping the red wire . Surprised CTEK does not include the fuse Saying that I use the LiPo version and a standard version of the 5A Ctek chargers and never skipped a beat in few years now. Edited by PM3 on Thursday 5th September 10:14 I spliced the extension cable and put a fuse in there. Overkill probably!

nammynake said: I’ve just bought a 718 GT4 and would like to use a trickle charger when not in use, particularly over winter where it’ll see less frequent use. Recommendations for a charger and also attachment method? I’ve seen mixed reviews on CTEK but understand this is what Porsche sell albeit unbranded. Also, what about attaching via the 12V socket in the passenger footwell versus direct to the battery? I’m looking for the most convenient method. I have just bought a 911 and also the CTEK MXS5. The CTEK is wired directly to the battery and I leave the bonnet open so I don't drive off and forget it's charging. I lock the car and the frunk light goes out ... I've never been a fan of charging through cigarette lighter sockets - but this is illogical and not founded on any technical reason... Assuming your 718 is garaged, I'd hard wire it to the battery. Not a tricky job.

NDA said: I have just bought a 911 and also the CTEK MXS5. The CTEK is wired directly to the battery and I leave the bonnet open so I don't drive off and forget it's charging. I lock the car and the frunk light goes out ... I've never been a fan of charging through cigarette lighter sockets - but this is illogical and not founded on any technical reason... Assuming your 718 is garaged, I'd hard wire it to the battery. Not a tricky job. But not to both sides of the battery, positive to the battery and negative to the spare bolt on the strut top.

JurassicGTS said: NDA said: I have just bought a 911 and also the CTEK MXS5. The CTEK is wired directly to the battery and I leave the bonnet open so I don't drive off and forget it's charging. I lock the car and the frunk light goes out ... I've never been a fan of charging through cigarette lighter sockets - but this is illogical and not founded on any technical reason... Assuming your 718 is garaged, I'd hard wire it to the battery. Not a tricky job. But not to both sides of the battery, positive to the battery and negative to the spare bolt on the strut top. My 911 (surprisingly) came with the CTEK female already wired to the battery - I am not sure exactly how it's connected. I have read that some people use spade connectors (open ended) to wire to the battery to avoid having to disconnect anything.

NDA said: My 911 (surprisingly) came with the CTEK female already wired to the battery - I am not sure exactly how it's connected. I have read that some people use spade connectors (open ended) to wire to the battery to avoid having to disconnect anything. CTEK sell larger eyelet connectors which go onto the battery terminal bolt. However if the CTEK is connected to both terminals it apparently confuses the electronics/stop start/etc, which is why it is recommended to connect the negative to an earth and the fact the spare bolt hole on the strut top is in the perfect position, most people connect there.

Also using an MXS5.0 on my 718 GT4. I use the passenger footwell socket also.

Also use a Ctek MXS5.0 on my 997.2 C4S.

Thanks for the suggestions. I’ve bought the Ctek MXS 5.0 with cigarette lighter adapter.

I have a 2022 718 GTS 4.0 which doesn’t get used much in winter. I’m looking at installing a CTEK CS One battery charger/maintainer and would appreciate answers to a couple of basic questions. 1) before I start the installation, should I disconnect the negative terminal and isolate it. 2) Is there a risk to any electrics during the install and how do you mitigate them. 3) what is the procedure for installing an inline 5A fuse on the positive wire and what was the one you used. 4) what’s the best order to reconnect the terminals given I remove the negative at 1). I know they’re really simple questions but I’m getting conflicting stories from YouTube and the CTEK site is no help. Thanks

What is it with the world? Ask a question and everyone uses the same charger, myself included. Surely there are other chargers out there? I noticed DK Engineering during his Gordon Murray demo on YT, was using a different type of charger - a much beefier charger, so it got me thinking - are there any other chargers that come recommended?

My CTEK 5.0 died and looking around I found a Ring RSC806, as here: https://www.toolstation.com/ring-smart-battery-cha... Much better digital display than the CTEK, showing attained voltage and when fully charged. Does everything the CTEK did apart from the 12v socket option. But an extra permanent battery cable is supplied which replaces the supplied terminal clamps via a plug so you can (hopefully) open the froot and hook up the charger.

Does anyone know the size of bolt that fits the spare bolt hole on the strut top?

Ctek MXS5.0 here too, got one for £63 on a amazon deal earlier this year. Worth doing as a new porsche battery if you are under the porsche warranty scheme is not cheap.

morcheenie said: Does anyone know the size of bolt that fits the spare bolt hole on the strut top? You’ll need an M8 bolts, you’ll also have to snip the eyelet on the lead and open it up a bit as the whole isn’t big enough for the bolt. You may have to run the bolt in the bolt hole a few times or tap the bolt hole as the maybe paint in there hindering a good electrical connection.

HighwayStar said: You ll need an M8 bolts, you ll also have to snip the eyelet on the lead and open it up a bit as the whole isn t big enough for the bolt. You may have to run the bolt in the bolt hole a few times or tap the bolt hole as the maybe paint in there hindering a good electrical connection. thanks, and I presume 16mm length and 1.25mm thread?

I used the bolt that connects the horn to the body of the car - essentially the earth of the horn. No cutting of eyelets needed and works perfectly.

morcheenie said: HighwayStar said: You ll need an M8 bolts, you ll also have to snip the eyelet on the lead and open it up a bit as the whole isn t big enough for the bolt. You may have to run the bolt in the bolt hole a few times or tap the bolt hole as the maybe paint in there hindering a good electrical connection. thanks, and I presume 16mm length and 1.25mm thread? I went with 10mm length/1.25mm thread.

Thanks, very helpful and i have now swapped over the negative spade from the ctek to this location instead of the negative terminal on the battery. Previously i was getting the occasional red light on the ctek for no apparent reason and i couldnt figure out why. Im hoping this will cure it.

DJMC said: My CTEK 5.0 died and looking around I found a Ring RSC806, as here: https://www.toolstation.com/ring-smart-battery-cha... Much better digital display than the CTEK, showing attained voltage and when fully charged. Does everything the CTEK did apart from the 12v socket option. But an extra permanent battery cable is supplied which replaces the supplied terminal clamps via a plug so you can (hopefully) open the froot and hook up the charger. Bought one, thanks! It does the job at a fraction of the price of a CTEK. Result.

morcheenie said: Thanks, very helpful and i have now swapped over the negative spade from the ctek to this location instead of the negative terminal on the battery. Previously i was getting the occasional red light on the ctek for no apparent reason and i couldnt figure out why. Im hoping this will cure it. My ctek was doing the same. Turned out the battery was swollen and about to explode so it might be worth checking this out. New battery and all is fine.

Olderandwiser22 said: My ctek was doing the same. Turned out the battery was swollen and about to explode so it might be worth checking this out. New battery and all is fine. thanks, it was checked recently so I know the battery is not a dud at least not yet