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YOUR RESEARCHwheel studs versus stock lug bolts.
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Install rennline studs
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I installed Rennline studs on my C4 about 6 months ago .
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I think i have the 58mm ones and i use a 15mm spacer but they say 10mm max.
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On my race car I used machined center caps to allow the wheel to be thrown on and tightened down..
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Of course adding studs with lug nuts, will add weight all of its own but depending on the set used will probably still be substantially lighter...
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Suggestion
First my indy recommended them for easier wheel changes from their perspective.
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I don�t remember the length offhand - I�m running 15mm spacers all around, so I think they are 70 - 75mm studs (IIRC)� Stock Sport Classic II Wheels (bbs).
Use appropriate anti seize sparingly, like you should
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Suggestion
There is no problem using Ti wheel fasteners, as long as you use the appropriate anti seize sparingly, like you should on any wheel fasteners of any material.
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Suggestion · Original poster
My BBS e88s are 996 cup Wheels with extra beefy centers, super thick and reinforced for heavy use compared to standard e88 centers so they require long fasteners.
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My BBS e88s are 996 cup Wheels with extra beefy centers, super thick and reinforced for heavy use compared to standard e88 centers so they require long fasteners. I have long lug bolts but not sure even they will be enough so thinking about replacing them with some wheel studs.
What's the current thinking? Bullet nose?
Which brands have been holding up?
ACER If you want Titanium. I bought a set last year to replace my old set. Can't remember who manufacturered the old set. Figured I would try Titanium to see how it holds up.
https://www.acerracing.com/products/...s-nuts-m14x1-5
The tarret studs r also good (rumered to be msi but not confirmed). Rennline and Apex had issues in the past, not sure if i trust them.
The msi web site sucks. I got them from a race team site but cant remember who. Google search or try these guys
https://www.moreheadspeedworks.com/p...d-wheel-studs/
Ill be buying these nuts this winter.(core4 has msi studs but dont list the porsche size)
https://www.core4motorsports.com/pro...core4-flug-nut
i would only consider bullet nose. Just hammer on with the impact. See my vid proving my point to
@zbomb
https://youtube.com/shorts/IsiGf6qFI10?feature=share
Going to look for bullet then. I prefer the look and should help me get things lined up easier too. How much poke outside the lug nut, threads and bullet nose, should I calculate?
Man, you don't even break a sweat. Who needs to start the first thread by hand anyway?
And those studs are pretty studly. What length? I want whatever you have but more.
I think i have the 58mm ones and i use a 15mm spacer but they say 10mm max. On my track rims the lug gets full engaugement but bearly.
Another vendor with the sizes:
https://www.arcflashllc.com/products...tud-conversion
Definitely use nuts with the floating collar/washer. Otherwise the torque can be all over the place because of the nut/wheel interface. Tarret sells them too.
https://tarett.com/collections/wheel...ting-collar-ea
If you know someone who has access to Porsche Motorsport you can get OEM Cup car wheel studs.
I would surely stay away from cheap studs. I see track guys with broken studs all the time, with all different cars.
Never use Ti nuts with Ti studs. They are sure to gall up the threads.
Well that's a new one for me. Who would have thought you couldn't use Titanium with titanium? It looks like the titanium studs aren't much different in price from the msi steel studs. Are they having problems with failure? I have a set of titanium ball seat lug nuts so that would have saved me some cash ola.
Torquing the Ti nuts onto Ti studs causes the surfaces to friction weld together. Stainless steel does the same thing. Unscrewing the nuts tears off the friction welded sections. The surface gets rougher, the thread gets smaller. Torquing to the normal value doesn't get the stretch required because of surface roughness. Eventually there isn't enough thread to support the forces required and the thread strips.
The threads are pretty beefy so this will take quite a few torque cycles. Using some kind of lubricant on the threads diminishes the friction welding. I still won't do Ti on Ti myself.
Good to know. I haven't put mine on yet. I will have to give acer a call and get their thoughts and recomendations. Obviously they will have a pro titanium bent to their response.
There is no problem using Ti wheel fasteners, as long as you use the appropriate anti seize sparingly, like you should on any wheel fasteners of any material. Probably better to not use a 1/2 impact that can twist the studs to 600 ft lbs. Hand torque is always the preferred way according to manufacturers...
Ti is half the weight of steel, more or less, comparing bolts to bolts, and similar/same strength. Of course adding studs with lug nuts, will add weight all of its own but depending on the set used will probably still be substantially lighter...
Yup, ti studs/lugs are the way to go imo if you can spend the cash on them. Hanging a wheel off studs vs fighting to get a bolt lined up in the hole is a no brainer...
jmo
When I bought my standard lug bolts from Acer,, they were the same price as stock steel Porsche ones at the dealer or through some of the online sources.
Not a track car so I'm good with the strength. I mainly was tired of the way the stock ones corrode..
I have always just put the wheels on over the hub, turned to center the holes and its done.. Prob depends on your tire and wheel package as far as ease of handling.
Unless you are swapping different wheels with different spacers I don't really see the point of studs. OEM bolts will probably never fail over their lifetime. I'm adding this to my ongoing list of things Porsche owners replace that work perfectly.
I am guilty your honor! In my defense I still have possession of the stock gray seats, the M030 sways and springs, the non-aero front bumper cover, the original gray seat cushions, CDR 220. And I must confess I don�t have one rear deck lid, but three. So, so, so guilty. Please lock me up�in my 996.
I didn't add studs because I thought the OEM bolts were going to fail . I added studs because I wanted to try spacers . Juggling the spacers/wheel bolts and wheel/tire combo didn't sound like fun to me .
Added the studs then slid the spacers into place . Slide the wheel/tire into place and it stays there . Tighten the lug nuts and good to go . As I get older I try and make wrenching easier . For me studs are way easier . Your results may vary .
That is extra funny cause I have Celiac... Gluten Free = all flavor removed or sucky flavor substituted! (Gluten free bread is a lie!!!!)
I'm sure some of it is pure practice,,, I can lift any of my tires by the spoke and stick them on and use my other hand to spin the lug in.
On my race car I used machined center caps to allow the wheel to be thrown on and tightened down.. (Not a Porsche)
Yeah, I added studs for two reasons. First my indy recommended them for easier wheel changes from their perspective. Second so I could change up different width spacers.
My longest bolts have 40 mm of thread. Looks like about 5 mm pokes out of the lug bore so that means the bore is 35 mm long. It also means 5 mm of thread engaged in the hub won't make me sleep well at night. How much do I need to get a solid connection with the hub?
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At least the same length of thread engagement as the thread diameter size , so 12mm for an M12 thread. This is for steel male thread into steel female thread. Different materials require different Engagement lengths.
Yeah, don't think I'm going to get there with these bolts. So another vote for stud conversion.
Okay, sharpen your pencil, what length do you need with a 35 mm lug bore and ample exposed thread to properly torque a set of open lug nuts?
Thats the nice thing about studs. With open lug nuts you can go longer than you think you need right now, makes for even easier mounting of wheels, and are ready for many size spacers to figure your best et....
I�ve been using steel studs (ECS IIRC) and Titanium lug nuts (black) for at least 5 years. I�ve never had any problems and I don�t have to think about rust�
I don�t remember the length offhand - I�m running 15mm spacers all around, so I think they are 70 - 75mm studs (IIRC)� Stock Sport Classic II Wheels (bbs). Fr 7.5� x18� R 10�x18� The fronts are actually a little longer than they need to be (studs stick maybe a 1/2� past end of lug nuts) the rears are perfect�
