6 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCH996 997 Voltage drop fix and diagnosis
Leading reported evidence
Replace battery and the alternator
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I had this issue and replaced both the battery and the alternator, but that didn't stop the problem.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
Any of you reading this far, if you are replacing the alternator, at the very least, do a visual check on the wire that goes from the alternator to the starter.
Leading evidence: 'Replace battery and the alternator' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check on the wire' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Suggestion · Original poster
Any of you reading this far, if you are replacing the alternator, at the very least, do a visual check on the wire that goes from the alternator to the starter.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Suggestion · Original poster
There is also a suffix -03 and that may be for a 997 but in any case, if you check with Pelican, it can direct you to the correct part number.
Replace alternator, at the very least, do a visual
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
Any of you reading this far, if you are replacing the alternator, at the very least, do a visual check on the wire that goes from the alternator to the starter.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
If the voltage doesn't change when you connect the jumper to the post, your problem is on the plus side of the system and if you are sure your battery and alternator are fine, then you need a new starter/alternator cable.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Check on the wire
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
Any of you reading this far, if you are replacing the alternator, at the very least, do a visual check on the wire that goes from the alternator to the starter.
Replace alternator, at the very least, do a visual
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
Any of you reading this far, if you are replacing the alternator, at the very least, do a visual check on the wire that goes from the alternator to the starter.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
If the voltage doesn't change when you connect the jumper to the post, your problem is on the plus side of the system and if you are sure your battery and alternator are fine, then you need a new starter/alternator cable.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
6 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Pelican Parts: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Have you noticed your voltage is ~14V on startup and then drops below 12.5 after your 996 warms up? That is a sign that the battery isn't being charged and it is either current flowing though the wires to the plus side of your battery or the wires on the negative side. The key is if the voltage is ~14v when cold and ~12.5v when warm.
I had this issue and replaced both the battery and the alternator, but that didn't stop the problem. So, if you are comfortable that the battery and alternator are OK, here is how to diagnose if you need a new starter/alternator cable, part number 996-607-019-01.
1) The easy check is to first make sure there is a solid ground connection between the battery and the frame. Tools needed: jumper cable and voltmeter.
a) Open the engine compartment. The bolt that holds the airbox to the frame is the negative jumper cable point to jump start your car. Connect one end of the jumper cable to that bolt.
b) Take the other end of the cable (you may need two jumper cables) and bring that to the negative terminal in the battery in the frunk. Don't connect it. Place a voltmeter on your battery.
c) Start the car and note the voltage.
d) Connect the jumper from the negative terminal on the airbox to the negative post on your battery and note the voltage. If nothing on the voltmeter changes, your ground connection is fine. If the voltage goes up, that means you have a loose or corroded connection between the battery, the frame and the motor.
If the voltage doesn't change when you connect the jumper to the post, your problem is on the plus side of the system and if you are sure your battery and alternator are fine, then you need a new starter/alternator cable. Period.
The problem with these cables are design related. There is a joint in the cable that connects the wire from the alternator to the wire that makes its way to the positive terminal on the battery. Because of the way the two wires are connected to each other, they aren't sealed from moisture (note that the other end of both these wires is very well sealed because it is only one wire). The bigger issue is that the copper wires are connected to a dissimilar metal and when combined with moisture, you get electrolytic corrosion. The corrosion creates resistance to the flow of current and as more fans/lights turn on, the flow of current rises and as it rises, the corrosion holds back the flow. The power consumed by the wire is related to the flow of current in Ohms equation: I-squared times R. As current doubles to run the lights and fans, the power it sucks out increases by a factor of 4 and that is why the voltage drops.
Any of you reading this far, if you are replacing the alternator, at the very least, do a visual check on the wire that goes from the alternator to the starter. If you see any corrosion where the wire terminates at the starter end, replace the wire (part number above), you will be glad you did.
The part number is: 996-607-019-01.
There is also a suffix -03 and that may be for a 997 but in any case, if you check with Pelican, it can direct you to the correct part number.
As a follow-up, It is the point of bonding between the wire from the alternator and the wire to the battery. Two different metals and nothing to seal out moisture. Prior to replacement, with the engine warm and the fans and lights on, the voltage dropped to just over 12. Now it sits just under 14. Problem solved. Well, possibly over solved with the new alternator and battery, but many happy years of not worrying.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
