Looking at our operating instructions prior to installing chrome wheel nuts, for the torque pressures.
The Porsche recommendation is to use 'Optimoloy TA' between the Alloy collar and the Nut head!
What is this? Where can you get itas a Google search reveals nothing .........- will copper paste do?
Do we need anything at all, as grease is apparently totally forbidden..............
Karel: See 'Wheel bolts and jacking points' under the 'Cayman Care' forum. In short, Permatex 133A and LubroMoly 508 are apparently more easily available anti-seize lubricants than Optimololy TA.
Thank you for your guidance, but still in the UK, both these items, as well as Optimoloy are not found (well at least with a UK - Google search)
I know Molybdenum paste is available (I use it in my guns), and the Copper based anti seize gease I use on general connections, wheel nuts, brake assemblies etc is but it seems quite clear that 'Grease' is not allowed..............?
Any more help would be much appreciated.
Your Porsche dealer will have a suitable solution. Give them a call.
What SF said......Porsche dealer will have the Optimololy (sp?) TA and it's good quality stuff. In a pinch any good anti-seize paste will do.
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NEW INFORMATION...
I found
Castrol Optimol TA
(called Optimoloy in different markets) Anti Seize Paste $15 a 100gm tube including shipping - so have ordered some. So it is made by Castrol!
Apparently it is specified by Bentley, BMW and Porsche in order to achieve the correct torque settings on your wheel nuts............
<a href="http://www.trelco.ch/PDF/tribotechnik/Sprays/Paste_TA.PDF#search=%22Castrol%20Optimol%20TA%22">Castrol Optimol TA Datasheet
</a>
The TA is just an antiseize lubricant. You should be fine with Copperslip.
The wheel bolts used are not stretch bolts like cylinder head bolts, so at the specified torque there is no way the wheel bolts are going to be taken into their plastic deformation yeald point i.e. they are just going to be stretched elastically and will return to their original length greased or not.
It's important, however, to have a consistant and minimal friction coefficient to minimise the error of the torqueing process. Significant errors caused by excess friction will reduce the tensile force in the wheel bolt below what it is designed to carry, resulting in lower wheel clamping forces. This becomes even more significant where wheel spacers are used where the longer bolt assembly is more prone to thermal cycling effects and interface irregularitiy and settling.
Bear in mind, however, that if you don't apply antiseize you could be overstressing wheel bolts when you take them off! A very seized bolt could require a torque way higher than the 120Nm used to tighten them in order to shift it. This may also explain broken locking wheel nuts. Who uses a torque wrench to undo bolts? Try it next time on dry corroded threads and see if the torque wrench is even capable of reaching the required torque.
