9 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCH2001 996: Bonnet won't open (not battery)
Reported or suspected cause
actuator
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
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Reported cause
Same thing happened to my 986 Boxster, it was the actuator under the bonnet.
Leading evidence: 'actuator' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'actuator' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check fuse' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I used a chinese actuator that cost £13 or so rather than a genuine one, so far so good 6 or so months down the line.
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Suggestion
- if not, check the fuse that is part of the locking module under the passengers seat.
Check switch is actuating properly in your door sill
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
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Suggestion
My first job would be to check the switch is actuating properly in your door sill.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion
allen bit) and jumping the switch wires (or testing continuity on the switch itself when actuated) to rule out the switch crapping out.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
9 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
911uk: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
Turns out the switch had got moisture in it and a good blast around the switch cured it.
Battery fully charged, engine running etc. but front bonnet actuator isn't making any noise at all and doesn't open. Engine cover opens perfectly.
A) Does anyone know what fuse it's on? Fuse diagram says bonnet opener is D7 I think, and I was able to verify that for the (working) engine cover. Can anybody confirm the front is on the same fuse?
A) Is there a relay that controls the actuator?
C) Is there also an emergency cable on the 2001 Turbo which has the electronic opener?
My first job would be to check the switch is actuating properly in your door sill. I don't think they have a fuse located in the fuse box as the emergency jumper point is there. I've had a problem with mine before after my mechanic serviced it. Turns out the switch had got moisture in it and a good blast around the switch cured it.
Something else to try is have an assistant press down on the bonnet to take some tension off the latch and try the switch again.
There is an emergency release cable which should run to behind the driverside wheel arch liner directly below the headlight. You are fortunate that it's not flat as that makes it a lot easier to remove the wheel and front section of the arch liner!
Central locking not working either? - if not, check the fuse that is part of the locking module under the passengers seat. When it pops, it wont allow the bonnet release to actuate.
Thanks for the suggestions. Main suspect is the actuator I guess. I'll open the wheel arch and pull the cord when I get a chance. Fingers crossed I don't get a flat battery in the meantime!
Relocate the cord while you're at it, much better to drill a small hole and put it in front of the condenser, so you can reach and grab it from the front.
The actuator can fail (mine did and I replaced it) but it shouldn't be a binary event, meaning you should still hear a click and the latch struggling to be released by the failing hydraulic actuator.
P.S. I used a chinese actuator that cost £13 or so rather than a genuine one, so far so good 6 or so months down the line.
Hmmmn... I hear nothing whatsoever, which is what led me to reach for the fuse first. I don't see me lying down under the wheel arch until conditions are much warmer.
But I don't think it's fused, and D7 is actually marked as "Rear spoiler Cover Opener"
so I'm surprised taking out that fuse does not allow the engine lid to open
I see you have a Turbo, that's why it controls the whole engine lid on yours. If pulling the cord is not an option I would try two things:
1) Connect a jumper pack if you have one to the emergency jumper point and pull the switch again; a weak battery can cause a failing actuator to not release the hood (if you are 100% certain the battery is fully charged you can disregard this).
2) Taking out the switch cover (two fiddly allen screws, you need a long 5mm? allen bit) and jumping the switch wires (or testing continuity on the switch itself when actuated) to rule out the switch crapping out. If nothing happens, it's either the actuator or the latch itself. In case you've not done this before the following might help
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