Clutch - what bleeding bleeder

Hello I changed the clutch slave cylinder. I then had problems using my new to me easy bleed kit. It looked like the Sealy kit but was a cheapo rip off from ebay. I'll try to find a link to something similar and post it below if I do. So I'm now just double triple checking - I hope that's OK - what kit I should buy to do this job. One of my mates is telling me to bleed it from the bottom up if that makes sense. So pump fluid in through the bleed nipple. Can anyone who has successfully completed this procedure, bleeding their clutch, please let me know how they did it and what kit I need. TIA Pardon our interruption...

You bleed it from the bleed nipple and a power bleeder makes it very easy. I never actually fill the bottle with fluid , I just add to the master cylinder but if it's just clutch once will do it.

So fill master right up , screw on the top , pump it up to 10psi , open the bleed nipple with hose and container attached..when fluid is totally clear nip up the bleed nipple..done.

Quotes source post: 2765607

Ok thanks My clutch pedal drops to the floor easily and then stays down without having to continue holding it down. Do you leave it down or up? I'm assuming once the easy bleed is attached and under pressure you then move to under the car at the bleed nippple. So you loosen nipple and then do you see air escaping and when it turns to fluid you just close it off and you're done?

Quotes source post: 2765608

Sounds simple thanks I had problems with the cap for the easy bleed not sealing well with the reservoir and fluid pissing out everywhere. But I had fluid in the easy bleed kit - I know now to try without. Then I think I had problems getting the hose fitting over the bleed nipple too. Double frustrating. Once I got some pressure into the system - I thought I had some pressure - opening the bleed nipple did nothing. So I assumed I had no pressure due to some easy bleed kit related problem.

Don't know if you know, but with the pedal in the down position the port from the fluid reservoir to the master cylinder is blocked so it's not possible to bleed, the pedal needs to be up to successfully use a pressure bleeder!!

I have the sealey pictured above, but i also have the performance friction twin bleeder which i find much easier and with less mess. It has a one-way valve, so you just fill your reservoir and pump the brakes/clutch - check the clear line for bubbles and your done. It cant take air back in when you lift the pedal. Everything collected is disposed of. and you can bleed both sides of the caliper at once. The problem with the sealey is it sometimes fills your reservoir up and you still need to bleed and collect the excess, plus you need to fill up the pump, which can get messy. https://www.design911.co.uk/p/performance-friction-bleeder-bottle-0260001/

Just to add, don't use too much pressure. 15psi tops, as you can end up forcing the fluid past the seals in the MC

Double check the manual - got a feeling the pedal needs to be down to bleed the clutch… just can’t remember even though I only did it the other month…

It always bugs me that most garages never bleed the clutch when doing the brakes and the m/c reservoir is shared. I ask them to do it! There are a couple of bleeding tips (brake) I follow:- Evacuate the master cylinder with a syringe and refill with new fluid, so when you start bleeding, new fluid is going into the system straight away. When changing pads, clamp off the hose and open the bleed nipple when pushing the calliper piston back in. The logic is that any crud in the calliper is pushed out rather than back into the system.