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YOUR RESEARCHGenerator/Battery Fault Message
Reported or suspected cause
reg/rect
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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0
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0
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Reported cause
I had similar on my Turbo , it was the reg/rect on the alternator...£15 but a bit of a job to replace.
Leading evidence: 'reg/rect' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'reg/rect' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check amount of ac in the output' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I've received a generator/battery fault message a few times recently since I swapped the battery.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
When the engine mounts are worn out (mine had been replaced just before I got it) the engine will be moving around a fair bit in relation to the body so that cable is constantly flexing.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The previous battery was replaced under warranty because it wasn't keeping charge.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
When the engine mounts are worn out (mine had been replaced just before I got it) the engine will be moving around a fair bit in relation to the body so that cable is constantly flexing.
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911uk: 1 discussions
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I've received a generator/battery fault message a few times recently since I swapped the battery. It was swapped about 4 weeks ago.
The previous battery was replaced under warranty because it wasn't keeping charge. I also replaced the voltage regulator 6 months ago as the gauge was sometimes reading low.
I'm getting 13.5v in the engine compartment at low load and 13.25 on high load.
I'm also getting 13.4 at the battery on low load and 13.08 on high load.
It reads 12.27 across the battery with the ignition off.
My thoughts is the Y cable or the alternator is going bad. Its a 05 4S with 104k
Does anyone have nay thoughts or ideas on this?
I had a weak regulator on mine which gave about 13.5v when cold but dropped down to 12.7v when really hot and I never got the lamp. So that would maybe suggest it's not the actual voltage level. Is it ever slow to start?
The difference between the engine bay and battery is similar to my car, I don't
think the car is clever enough to know if there's excessive drop along the cable, people just seem to have starting problems, or a low battery.
Could be the alternator itself or possibly try another regulator!?
Check all the connections are tight
Probably the best thing and do check the cables especially the earth/ground strap under the heat shrink at both ends. My other car, a 98 C2 was very hard to start and I found that strap to be in a bad way.
Well one end is connected to the engine and the other the bodyshell. When the engine mounts are worn out (mine had been replaced just before I got it) the engine will be moving around a fair bit in relation to the body so that cable is constantly flexing.
I should say I don't know if this is the reason for poor starting as it was discovered during engine removal and it's not yet back in( the engine) and won't be for a while but it's getting replaced with a new one made by me.
The Y cables are all perfect looking so I don't know what it is about them that deteriorates
I checked it again after taking for a 45 min drive to get it hot and got:
12.48v on high load and 13.8v on low load taken at the battery.
13.36v on high load and 14.5v on low load at the rear of the car.
Its struggling take charge after a good drive and had to be jump started. The car is also slow at turning over.
The gauge is all over the place too. Not sure if its connected but the oil pressure gauge is also twitching and reading below what its actually is (I have a permanent mechanical gauge fitted int he engine bay.
How many miles on the car mate? Could be the slip rings on the alternator if they are heavily worn. (Unlikely) or the diode pack.
You can test if it is one of the diodes by checking the amount of AC in the output. Should be a YT video somewhere on that.
You need to start somewhere though and i would first be checking the voltage drop from the alternator to the battery and to the body/ground.
Can always chuck a set of jump leads direct to the battery to rule out any in car wiring.
Let us know how it goes.
I had the alternator refurbished so worth checking if you have anywhere nearby that can do it. Felt better than throwing away and replacing. No idea the price difference.
My thoughts are still with an alternator issue.
The least cost route to start with is fit another regularor pack.
I appreciate that you have already changed the pack but if you are not getting 14.38 then that is where to start.
The diode pack includes a heat shield/sink, and you state voltage variations when hot this could also be a clue to a failed pack.
This picture (for reference) is the moment i started my car after fitting a new regulator pack.
Can you get your meter onto the terminal directly on the rear if the alternator, if you're measuring from the jump-start terminal it could be a problem in between. Getting directly onto the rear terminal would tell you the actual alternator voltage.
Also the high load difference you got this time is higher than your earlier post at nearly a volt, that does seem high, maybe you have a combination of problems.
On mine I had similar low voltages which got worse when hot, the longer I drove it the slower it turned over next time. I confirmed it was the alternator by measuring at the alternator terminal and I only had 0.3volt drop at high load from the back to the front. As already said you could do with seeing the condition of the slip rings, I changed my reg at 45k so mine were still fine.
Ever since I changed my reg I've had 14.0v at the battery and good starting, I think when the battery voltage gets down below 13v it's barely charging
On a long run Xmas eve, i checked again and got 14.4v at the rear and 13.6 at the battery but didn't get any error messages.
Ive got a new regulator on order and i’ll remove the alternator tomorrow to give it a check on the bench. It doesnt look to be in great condition. I’ll also check the ground cable and the Y cable
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