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YOUR RESEARCHOops - Oil Filler Pipe Snapped.....
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Check filter
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I checked the old filter for any debris and found...
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I have just changed my air filter and but completely bungled putting the airbox back into the car.
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I put this down to never having been changed before and the bolts had just merged with the alloy of the block.
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Suggestion
I have to rush out otherwise i would find the pictures for you but check my previous posts.
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Suggestion
I gave the area around the oil filler tube a good clean before starting on the 2 bolts.
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Suggestion
As these cars age there are a lot of 'suicide' plastics on them, I manage to break an AOS pipe and the dip stick pipe on my 986 at over £120 in costs to replace being Porsche specific parts....
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Suggestion · Original poster
Obviously I need to replace the filler tube and can see a few guides on YouTube to go and watch, just wondering if anybody has done the job personally?
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Suggestion · Original poster
Thanks Alex, I'll see if I can figure out how it works from looking at parts pics etc, it makes sense that tightening the bolt might pull it into a recess, which when untightening leaves it in the recess, so tapping pushes it back out and clear, or something like that I am mentally visualising!
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15 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
911uk: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261027T020439Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Hi Team,
I have just changed my air filter and but completely bungled putting the airbox back into the car. I got distracted by MAF wire getting snagged so as I held that out of the way and manhandled the box back into position, I heard something land on the floor under the car... the top 6" of the oil filler tube. What a plonker.... A few swears later and I have managed to wedge a precise sized plastic disk in to the outermost 'wide bit' of the broken bellows section and secured it with two hose clamps, one to clamp the disk in place and another further down just to hold the narrower part of the tube rigid so it cant go oval and let the disk past, just in case it gets sucked out of its position in the bellows.
Pressed enter too soon. Obviously I need to replace the filler tube and can see a few guides on YouTube to go and watch, just wondering if anybody has done the job personally? Any tips, tools, best guides to watch etc?
Thank you, I watched a couple of videos, one removing just the alternator and another where they removed both alternator and throttle body & plenum to give better access. Waiting for a quote from OPC for a new tube and seal, assume bolts OK to reuse with a bit of fresh blue loctite. The only thing I could not see from the vids was when removing the bolt that holds the idler pulley there's a reason to tap on it to free up a bushing on the back side of the alternator bracket, is that just because it will be stuck to the bracket so to avoid twisting it, it needs to be spinning freely, or have I misunderstood?
No, it's not because it's stuck, it's because that's how it bolts the alternator to the engine at the back. Gets folk everytime that bolt. Can't remember exactly how it works but I think it pulls a clamp at the back to clamp it. You have to tap the bolt forward to release it.....or something like that.
Thanks Alex, I'll see if I can figure out how it works from looking at parts pics etc, it makes sense that tightening the bolt might pull it into a recess, which when untightening leaves it in the recess, so tapping pushes it back out and clear, or something like that I am mentally visualising! TOP TIP: Next time be more careful putting the air box back in
The long bolt (upper right) on the alternator has a cone shaped 'nut' on the end which needs to clear the mounting bracket which is C shaped so that you rotate it in/out when fitting or removing, so obviously you have to slacken it enough to allow the cone to clear the bracket then you cam pop the alternator out.
As these cars age there are a lot of 'suicide' plastics on them, I manage to break an AOS pipe and the dip stick pipe on my 986 at over £120 in costs to replace being Porsche specific parts....
Changing the tube is difficult even with the engine stripped and on the bench (I did this just yesterday).
It would be better just to clean the mating surface of the two parts and bond them back together again.
I posted some pictures of how to do this a few months ago. Use araldite 5minute epoxy bond and it will last forever.
I have to rush out otherwise i would find the pictures for you but check my previous posts.
Found it.
M
Thread 'Oil change and collapsed filter plus split oil filler tube Horrors!!!!!'
13 Sep 2025
It was time to do an oil and filter change on my new 997.1 Cabriolet but what I found annoyed me!!!
Oil and filter changes on a 996 or 997 are so easy and the parts inexpensive. The last oil change completed by and Indy was just about 3k miles ago but when I dropped the oil filter this is what I found. The oil filter was completely crushed. On inspection the filter had no central strengthening skeleton making crushing inevitable. You can see the lack of strengthening when compared to the correct Bosch P9144 item (£10 from Halfords). I checked the old filter for any debris and found...
martin t
Replies: 21
Forum:
Porsche 911 997 (2004-2012)
So, I have stripped off all the top of the engine except for the power steering pump and the trays that take the wiring. I gave the area around the oil filler tube a good clean before starting on the 2 bolts.
the outer bolt is under the wiring tray so i had to move the tray to make room for the socket and extension. The when trying to remove the bol, actuall both bolts i found they were stuck fast and brute force was needed to crack the bond with the block. I put this down to never having been changed before and the bolts had just merged with the alloy of the block.
So my assumption is that if it is fiddly to remove the pipe with everything removed and working from above, what must it be like to do it in situ with the manifolds and lonk tubes in place.
There again it is probably straightforward it was just my engine that needed a bit of extra grunt. When I re assemble i will use some anti sieze so whoever does it next will have an easier job.
Still best to just bond the pipe back together again, a 5 minute job and no air or oil leaks again and a£120 stillin the bank account (oe however much a tube is).
Sorry about the missing letters, my keyboard is tired and the letters keep moving about.
"lonk tubes"
I'm not sure what you mean about wiring trays ? Do you mean Looms?
I've never had much joy bonding ABS plastic , nothing sticks to it , you can melt and weld it though, I did that with the front bumper cover and some of the undertrays. Maybe some mentally strong tape after you've cleaned it really well might work but if it's in the bellows part that will be very hard to fix properly. Good luck and let us know how you get on regardless.
I did this to mine a few years ago and decided to use self amalgamating tape to fix it back together. It's been fine ever since. Not the proper fix, but as bodges go, does the trick.
Makes perfect sense, I cant see it clearly on the video's I've watched but can visualise the conical bushing/nut being pulled tight into a C shaped recess when tightening, but obviously when removing the bolt it will leave the cone wedged into the 'C', so needs to be tapped backwards with the bolt screwed into it lightly to retain it, but loose enough to allow it to move backwards and dislodge the cone so it can be lifted free... that's the theory sorted... as usual the practical bit will go one of two ways
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