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YOUR RESEARCHStrut replacement help needed
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Use with some success is candle wax
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Another trick I've used with some success is candle wax.
Leading evidence: 'Use with some success is candle wax' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace 60k-mile m030 shocks and struts' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Time to change the 60K-mile M030 shocks and struts on my �00 C2.
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Suggestion
It was actually worse as there�s no room to get a hammer or anything in there to pound on it - wound up cutting the arm first to make room for my sawzall and then cut the bolt - I was replacing the toe arms anyway, so it was a worthy sacrifice that significantly sped up the job.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Upon reassembly, with all new control arms and bolts, using copious anti-seize!
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Suggestion
*Wherever you have steel bolts passing through aluminum (subframe) use liberal amounts of anti-seize!!!
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Suggestion
It was actually worse as there�s no room to get a hammer or anything in there to pound on it - wound up cutting the arm first to make room for my sawzall and then cut the bolt - I was replacing the toe arms anyway, so it was a worthy sacrifice that significantly sped up the job.
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Time to change the 60K-mile M030 shocks and struts on my �00 C2. Fighting a fair amount of corrosion where anti-seize wasn�t used on non-Porsche bolts, including the anti-roll bar links where they attach to the upright (wheel carrier). Frozen solid: a few whacks with a hammer and significant pressure with a gear puller didn�t move the bolt out, and I don�t have a hydraulic press. Looking for advice on how to do this without ruining the upright.
Be real careful if using a torch (fairly easy to damage aluminum with too much heat)! A powerful heat gun is preferable. Take your time and soak with your favorite penetrating solution (acetone + trans is a favorite home remedy). I fought with that bolt for week, (I generally worked on it for an hour or so per evening) the first time I did my suspension. Good luck
As dporto said, penetrating solution and heat are your friends. Another trick I've used with some success is candle wax. Light a candle and let the wax drip into the threads. Keep at it. You'll get it eventually.
All of the above posts offer great advice, but I thought I'd also throw out that Harbor Freight has cheap presses. I bought one years ago for less than $100 and it has been money well spent. It's very convenient to have in the shop and I have had no issues with the quality.
deporto has it right. Patience and persistence. At least with the split in the upright, you have a chance of getting some penetrant in both halves. If you can get a wrench on the ball side and tap it back and forth, it may also help. Also remember that that split will open and close if only one side is stuck, meaning the hole alignment changes and may bind the bolt even more.
The big problem with that particular bolt is that the dissimilar metals (steel bolt in aluminum carrier) react with each other when they corrode and sort of weld themselves together chemically�I�ve also experienced this on my drivers side rear toe arm. It was actually worse as there�s no room to get a hammer or anything in there to pound on it - wound up cutting the arm first to make room for my sawzall and then cut the bolt - I was replacing the toe arms anyway, so it was a worthy sacrifice that significantly sped up the job. *Wherever you have steel bolts passing through aluminum (subframe) use liberal amounts of anti-seize!!!
You may also consider �free� tool rental from an auto parts store. Advance auto near us has a bunch of suspension (and other) tools available. You �buy� the unit to borrow it and then return for a refund when done. No gimmick on my part, they advertise this as a customer benefit. Have used them twice with great success. Good luck!
Good advice, thanks! I’ve soaked liberally with ATF/acetone, cleaned and heated the bolt red hot and whacked it a couple of times to no effect. Will try modest heating with heat gun directly on aluminum. Will report back when it works, or breaks
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After no success with heat and chemicals, I took the link arm off mine (since I was replacing it). That leaves you with something you can get a (17mm?) socket on.
Then more heat, penetrative oils, and persuasion from an impact wrench finally got it moving. That one bolt took more time than the rest of the installation.
Again, thank you for the responses. I tried all of the above with no luck, so took to my indie. He used a hydraulic press and was amazed at the amount of corrosion. Also had him do the wheel bearings, again both sides had significant corrosion. Upon reassembly, with all new control arms and bolts, using copious anti-seize!
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