Anyone with Bilstein B8 kit please chime in

Looking to do a refresh of my 20 yr old suspension and was considering the B8 package. I want to keep my C4S ride supple but tight. Not looking to have a track type setup. Would the B8 kit with H&R springs be a good way to go?

I don't think the ride on H&R springs have ever been defined as supple.

I had a B8 / H&R setup on my C4 for about 4 years. It was far better than the worn out stock suspension, but it was a little harsh. This being said, the price is right. While the B8�s aren�t adjustable, many people don�t want to mess with adjustments anyway.

Bash Hat - Consider the B8 with Eibach? On my previous C2 had B6 then Koni w/ H&R and didn’t love them. On this C2, tried the M030 RoW springs and they are just fine but didn’t impress me. I wanted better than just fine so tried the Eibachs. With Eibach springs, and the Bilsteins, way more balanced rebound and compression and better ground clearance than the H&R.

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I understand from your post you do not have the M030 option. In that case keep your stock springs and fit Bilstein B4, which are considered direct replacement for the original factory fitted ones. Do replace the PU bump stops. Alternatively KONI Active (formerly called FSD) if available for 4S. Again combined with stock springs and new bump stops. Bilstein B8 (as well as M030 and the GT2/3 dampers) are monotube and as such do not have a so-called bottom valve like the original factory dampers, Bilstein B4 and Koni have since these are alle of the twin tube variety. The bottom valve sits inside the inner tube at (you guessed it) the bottom and oil has to pass through it on it's way to and from the outer tube. Both mono and twin tube type dampers have in common the piston valve (by means of orifices and shim stacks for bump and rebound specifically). A bottom valve allows for a broader range of damping between high and low speed damping. Former defines how the wheel negotiates bumps, connection joints, man hole covers etc, the latter how taught the body is kept under control when braking and entering/exiting corners. The KONI Active has an extra valve in its piston that is similar to the �hlins System in what it achieves, I.e. even better body control whilst still allowing the wheels to move and soak up the bumps effectively. HTH. PS. Your springs don't wear in the sense that they get softer/less stiff due to age or mileage. They settle together with rubber spring pads but that happens during the first 500 miles or so. Their powder coating can take a beating however which could lead to rusting of the springs and eventually even breaking off of the coil at one end of the spring. Aftermarket springs generally lower the car and increase spring stiffness which is not really what you're looking for if I understand you correctly.

I’ve been running B8s and H&R springs for a few years now. “If” you are looking to lower ride height, these are a reasonably inexpensive way to go. I don’t find them harsh at all, in fact much better than the old stock NA springs and dampers. Of course, the trouble is “harsh” (like “spicy” with food) is a relative term as everyone has a different idea of what that is. If you want to keep ride height stock, hardtailer’s suggestion is likely a good one. My only regret is not going to coil overs, so that I could tweak ride height and corner balance, but I’m a geek that way. Most will set and forget.

Thanks for the info guys. The FCP Euro kit I was considering comes with H&Rs and their site states the spring is designed to work with the B8 shocks. I'm fine with the stock ride height. Not sure if there was a "comfort" option back in 2002 but my C4S does ride softer than my 99 C2 did. I'll definitely look into the B4 and Koni options. Edit: Ordered the B4 kit and will keep the stock springs.

Going to second the Koni Active recommendation. Just threw a full set on my daughter's 2001 BMW 330Ci with sport suspension and they are remarkable for the price. Controls body lean without being harsh and best described as 'taut' on the road.

I have put 5 years and and 30,000+ miles on my B8s. They are actually part of the Techart Suspension kit. As others have said, they are firm, not harsh but firm. If you increase your tire width F/R you will feel even more of the road. Also, as previously mentioned these are only to be used with modified height springs, mine are 33mm drop. They were a big improvement of standard setup that had 42,000 miles at the time. For handling, cornering and stability at high speed that are fantastic. Picture below shows you a 33mm drop with B8s

My 1999 C2 Cab has B8s w/ H&R springs lowering it 1.25", basically the same as what NYoutftr posted above. I've only had it about a week and I obviously haven't logged a lot of miles yet so take this all with a big grain of salt. I agree that the ride feels firm but harsh is not a word that has entered into my mind. It feels like how I expect it to feel, how I want a car like this to feel. I don't know what it felt like stock but the vehicle I drive regularly is a diesel Jeep Grand Cherokee and this still doesn't feel harsh in my opinion.

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Other than upper strut mounts, was there anything else needed when installing these? Anything that you would maybe recommend swapping/changing/ doing different after having done it? Thanks!

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I wanted exactly what you described and I went with Bilstein B6 + ROW C4S Springs, and really happy with the result. Is like driving it new... but improved in terms of moving control Regarding the springs, they are lower than the US version, but not much. I needed like that because the 19"s. In the front, with 19's, the ROW height is just to the limit when you turn the wheel

I just put the B6's on my car, along with new top hats. So far very satisfied, although I haven't driven it much and still do need an alignment.

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It was all done before I purchased the car but detailed service records came with it so here's the work order for it in case that helps.