Help with Key Relearn Alarm Imobilizer Please

Hello sorry if I posted in the wrong spot I tried follow up to a previous post and couldn't figure out how to. I have a few questions but some history and information will be helpful. I purchased the car 4 years ago it was the 911 dream car of my high-school poster on the wall Era. Luckily for me the 996 wasn't loved or mean as much to enough people as it did to me the values were low and I was able to find and purchase it. Its a 1999 manual 2 owner car with 84,000 miles. With the car came a complete folder of invoices receipts, service records totaling over $80,000 in maintenance/repairs . All the original purchase papers, oil changes tire rotations crazy amount of meticulous documents everything done by the dealer. The car even had alot of GT2/3 suspension upgrades. In fact I was able to sell the turbo twist hollows spoke for almost what I paid for the entire car. The car was cared for and than sat and sat and sat. I bought it and it's sat for 4 more years and I have been working towards getting it on the road the last few months. The car was easy to get started oil pressure great it woukd run until about 180 degrees and than shut it self of. A sudden shut off like a complete fuel kill or as if you turned it off yourself. I posted and got some answers and what to look for. Thank you for that to those members. I don't have durametric moneys tight. I have some other software on a tablet that has done wonders for me and helped me with other vehicles and with this car as well. It gave me a code 43 which made complete sense and fit some of the symptoms because the car definitely shut off but woukd crank after and not start if you attempted to. If you waited a day or longer it starts shuts off around 180 or 10 minutes. It won't start again just cranks. I assume the immobilizer or whatever sends the shut off signal woukd not allow the car to crank immediately after? Wouldn't it be more like most theft devices and give a complete no crank no start and not allow the engine to turn over? I ask this now to determine if I fixed the issue or need to prepare for something else. Back to code 43. I removed the seat found the immobilizer and there's 2 plugs going into it, the front smaller one wasn't even plugged in. When I plugged it in the interior lights came on which I never had the car started like normal had no codes but still shut off and wouldn't start again just cranked but still produced no codes. So I went into the dme module with my software and it told me that key codes and immobilizer weren't matching or righ.. I can't remember the exact wording. I looked through my papers and got the key codes and immobilizer code put those into the car with my software and haven't had any issues starting it or keeping it running no codes. I have started it shut it off let it run enough times to kill a normal cars starter partly to check and see if the issue was gone mostly because I'm excited to drive it and it sounds amazing lol. I have changed the oil,coolant, hydraulic/ steering fluid I have fuel filter on the way and want to change that and check the tank and than drive it hopefully by Sunday. Now the questions I have. Neither fob I have which are original operates the locks by button, they light up when pressed but my dash alarm light does not it never blinks at all. The keys start the car it never shuts off anymore, I have no dash lights my software shows no codes anywhere including the dme and alarm module. I can happily live without keyless entry but is the novel I wrote above combined with no alarm blinking now and fobs/keys partly working mean I still have potential immobilizer issues? Should my car have started at all with the immobilizer being half plugged in? Or allow me to turn the engine over after? Or start a day later? If anyone is still here and hasn't added this book of a question to a reading list lol please chime in.

Hi, sorry not so much an answer as perhaps another piece of the puzzle. I have a 996.1 which came with two keys. One will open the car with the fob, the other does exactly as you describe for your keys. I've changed batteries, left it with no battery for a while etc and nothing seems to work, the light flashes when the fob button is pressed, it will unlock (in the door) the car and will start the car. I've never had an issue with the engine cutting out, and I use the not so good key periodically (just in case the car forgets who it is an not accept it, if that is a thing). So perhaps you've fixed your cut out issue and now just have a key issue. Best of luck, hopefully someone else has the solution.

"So I went into the dme module with my software and it told me that key codes and immobilizer weren't matching or righ.. I can't remember the exact wording. I looked through my papers and got the key codes and immobilizer code put those into the car with my software and haven't had any issues starting it or keeping it running no codes." Ummm...what? What software? The proprietary Porsche PIWIS software? You make it sound like you can just take some "software" and look at the DME/Immobilzer key codes. Huh. First on that one.

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the key codes came with the car on a card from Porsche with all the paperwork. The immobilizer was on the unit and on a card inside the owners manual. And yes with my diagnostics software I can do module swaps key relearn on most vehicles at least all the ones I have needed to thud far. I was even able to program a new key for my Fytpe with it.

We have yet to see a successful 3rd party software program for our 996 keys. Sometimes they work for a week but every thread ends with $2-300 to the dealer. Good luck.

There are 2 different programming procedures to have a fully functioning key.. 1 .programming the "pill" (rfid) to the immobilizer;;enables the start/run function. yes requires an IPAS code 2 programming the Remote control fob, enables the remote door unlock/lock function .. yes , requires a special code that comes with a New Remote. What software and codes are you using and where are you entering them?

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The software i have is hybrid of 2 different softwares and a generated key that enables me to have access to all the manufacturers and models on both platforms. Not trying to go into to much detail because I'm 101% sure its not legal for me to own or use but I have it and I don't use it to make money or use it on any vehicles except my own. I'm learning more and more how to use it and it's helped me tremendously. Not to beat the software portion to death but using the same software I was able to diagnose my former 997s transmission issue and repair that my local Porsche dealer could not find anything wrong. It was an auto that occasionally went into safety mode limited speed and gears with no pattern or consistency hot or cold didn't matter, but produced no codes and ended up being faulty speed sensor with voltage irregularities and it pulled a code rhe first time I plugged it in even with the car not having issues that day not in safety mode. Back to my 996 though I'm not having starting issues any more or seeing any codes. I am looking for new fobs because both my plastic bodies are worn out and don't stay closed ones missing rhe rubber seal as well. Ill try to program the ones i got now to the doors. How many numbers are in the codes? I have a card that was with the key codes that has a code/number on it that I don't know what it is I can post a pic and cover up a few numbers or something maybe someone can tell me. Its not the radio code that cards labled as such. Also What I'm really interested in knowing is it standard for the car to crank when I had original start issues with the original security issues showing in the dme and alarm modules of my software? Seems odd to me that the car would be able to crank the engine with security features activated? But I don't have any knowledge of the immobilizer or porsche in general just comparing it to other vehicles security systems. My trucks use pats and my key that trigger a no start no crank in the pcm and my corvette was a nightmare when the key stopped working from the ignition to the bcm it wouldn't crank only my second Porsche and the 997 didn't have any key issues.

As Porshetech explained the key has 2 seperate functions. They dont interfere with each other. Before i did my swap the fobs would not activate the locks or even talk to the unit. I would just unlock the door with the key and start the car as normal. There is no direct start interlock, all u need is the correct rfi chip in the fob. A work around for remote locks is tapping in a 3rd part module that comes with its iwn remote.

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so with the immobilizer being half plugged in and the key according to the software i have not matching the immobilizer it's normal to still turn over the engine? I'm not trying to work around anything and I even posted locally trying to find someone who can reprogram these keys to the car but didn't find anyone. I'm in Phoenix if anyone can recommend a shop. Yes the car starts now and shows no codes but I'm more worried about immobilizer issues now or going forward. Thanks for your response

New key fobs will come with a tag with code, it is 24 digits. If you don't have PIWIS I cant help you on third party software. but below is a link to Autologic tool that may be similar to the software you are using. And to answer your other question, NO, if the "pill" (RFID ) is not programmed to the immobilizer, the car will not "spin over" (crank) or start. https://us.autologic.com/news/porsch...logic-drivepro

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Thank you