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YOUR RESEARCHAnother oil question
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Run 5k mile cycle of the driven fr50 oil
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I ran a 5k mile cycle of the Driven FR50 oil which has that weight, 5w50 and was pretty happy with it.
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Suggestion
Anyway in the other products recommendations check the oils tbn, that is an indication of the oil dispersancy and detergency , higher number the better.
Leading evidence: 'Run 5k mile cycle of the driven fr50 oil' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is '(i.e' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check oils tbn' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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You can also try Liqui Moly 5W-40, Motul X Cess 5W-40 Gen2 (I use the 300V on my C4S), etc.
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Previous owner had it serviced by a well regarded Porsche specialist, that used M1 15w-50 per original spec.
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Then, you say oils like Driven DT40 are suspect (i.e.
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Check oils tbn
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Suggestion
Anyway in the other products recommendations check the oils tbn, that is an indication of the oil dispersancy and detergency , higher number the better.
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Suggestion
25 years of Porsche R&D from the very first M96 engines to the latest 9A2 engines and NOT a single time in any of their "A40 Approved Lists" or owner's manuals did they certify or recommend 15W50 for use in Boxster, Cayman, or 911 models for street use.
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Suggestion
I�m doing now as i said, 1 Mobil one 0W40, 1 5W50, a top treat of proprietary MOS2, (moly disulfide), buy the liquid moly stuff Uc you want something similar, 6 months oil changes, my car does not uses any oil to speak for.
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I recently purchased a 40th AE, 62K miles. Previous owner had it serviced by a well regarded Porsche specialist, that used M1 15w-50 per original spec. I will be doing all routine maintenance myself, and do not find this oil readily available. So far, every inquiry I've made has recommended using 5w-40 (fully synthetic of course), a few 0w-40. Given my location in FL, I'd prefer 5w-40. I don't mind spending for any of the "boutique" brands, but if deemed just as good, would like to stay with easily available choices. Any thoughts on Castrol Edge Euro Car 5w-40 A3/B4? This meets the Porsche A40 spec, and as an added bonus, would simplify things as I have an Audi that already uses this exact oil and it's readily available from several local sources.
Best oil for a 996 is Driven DT-40. It was formulated by L&N Engineering specifically for our engines. Use it along with a 4K oil change interval (OCI) for street use. If you track the car you need to run the racing version of it and change the oil before each track day, and then back to DT-40 for normal street use.
They are the primo 996 engine rebuilders, I trust them any day over marketing hype.
Why do you think 15W50 is fine for our cars? No where in the manual does it recommend that weight of oil. I can see 5W50, because it starts at a 5W oil and it formulated to handled high temperatures, but starting at a 15W rated oil seems too thick to run in our engines.
if you want that it�s available at Walmart. Decent price to $27 for the 5 quart jug. The 15W50 is not that far off from the A40, it
is diesel CF, has a 12.6 tbn and also caries acea approvals. DT 40 is approved by who?????? Remember I used to formulate oils , enough said.
That was a while ago. In case you missed it Sunday�s smoked prime rib, I did homemade chicken noodle soup yesterday cold rainy most of the day. Today soul headers going in.
Awesome color and flavor. I had a prime rib sandwich last night almost all gone.
Yesterday chicken noodle soup. Homemade
My sons plate on Sunday, he likes the meat well which in my book is a sin, he has a disability so a bunch of times he ask me to cut the meat for him.
Ooh ooh I can go nasty and create tattooed dic pics posts
my friend put the bmw M3 symbol on his and sent it to everyone on his page
or would you guys rather have just Porsche related posts
LOL
Don't give anyone any ideas or we will hear about it and see it from 110 countries.
OP, go to LN Engineering's website. They have entire write-up on oils that you may find helpful. Also take a look at their write-ups on bore scoring of which I think they discuss variations in oil specs to keep you engine running.
That Castrol is a really good oil. You can also try Liqui Moly 5W-40, Motul X Cess 5W-40 Gen2 (I use the 300V on my C4S), etc. but my recommendation is to continue with product that match your specs from well renowned brands...
Any thoughts on the "fact" that Porsche's own "recommendation" (too far fetched conclusion?) for our 996 is 5W-50 - based on the Porsche Classic motoroil 5w-50. That added viscosity is obviously to compensate the wear and tear on non-rebuild engines.
yeah the more viscous oil is to compensate for the wear and also help with oil consumption. Also another thing that I discovered by accident, the old style chain tensioners will leak down oil, so they�ll rattle a bit when cold started. Up the viscosity a bit and the car can sit for 7 days and no rattle at startup. The higher viscosity is not a new trick, when max life the first oil for higher mileage engines was developed and introduced at Valvoline the
100 cst viscosity was higher than the conventional products but in the same viscosity grade. I wouldn�t spent the money for the Porsche classic oil , just buy Mobil 1 5W50, if that�s what you want. Anyway in the other products recommendations check the oils tbn, that is an indication of the oil dispersancy and detergency , higher number the better. A clean engine is an efficient and more power producing engine. Anyway the liquid moly product has low tbn, I wouldn�t put that in my car.
That's a good point. I ran a 5k mile cycle of the Driven FR50 oil which has that weight, 5w50 and was pretty happy with it. UOA also showed smaller wear numbers which was a plus. Our oil pressure gauge is not the most accurate thing out there but I did notice slightly better oil pressure, especially at idle when everything was nice and hot. I'll probably go that route again.
actually I spoke with Mobil and now I�m running a mix of OW40-5W50. The resulting oil actually has a 40 oil viscosity but it is a higher cst number on the range. My idle viscosity went from about 1 to 1.5 bar, my chain tensioners don�t rattle anymore, I didn�t wanted to run a 50 oil and lose some power, fuel efficiency and create a hotter running engine.
that�s exactly what I�m doing, now I�m adding a propietary MoS2 additive for extra friction reduction and wear protection. That I can�t give away. But you can buy the liquid moly product.
Ok guys. I live in NE where the outside temps are usually moderate to cold. Summers rarely go higher than 80's where I live close to the ocean. My 996 shows 41xxx on the clock. Right now I am running M 1 0-40 synthetic. I don't have a handle on oil consumption since I just took ownership in November. But she does use some oil. A guess would be 1 qt in 2000 miles. No mechanical noises at all on start up or any other time. Mostly slow driving (<80) and little highway. So what do you guys think about Mobil 1 5-50 synthetic, or Porsche 5-50 for my car?
Thanks
Rick
I would stay with Factory filled 0W40. A quart oil consumption every 2,000, miles I believe Porsche last statement was a quart every 600 miles, you are great where you are.
You are running a perfectly fine oil. The highest weight I'd go in the winter for you is - maybe - 10w, but would play it safe at 5w and up it to 10 in the summer.
Edit: I would run 10w-40 before I ran 15w-50, but I still stand by 15w being fine, especially if you're living somewhere like Miami in June/July.
The way you manufacture a multi grade oil is by adding a polymer. Think of it as a honeycomb that traps the oil molecules and as the oil heats up it doesn�t allow them to flow that
well, remember the definition of viscosity is resistance to flow. Anyway the issue with polimers is that they shear break down, then they don�t perform as good as original intended shear stability. You have temporary shear
and permanent shear
as the name implies temporary will go back. Anyway a 15w50 uses less polymers so if you are in a warmer
climate and you are going to track your car heavily this is not a bad way to
go. There�s a bunch more stuff I can
bore you guys about like shear stability index, why would you formulate a oil to
on purpose shear with time and etc. oil is the life blood of an engine, is cheap insurance, run good oil and do frequent oil changes.
I�m doing now as i said, 1 Mobil one 0W40, 1 5W50, a top treat of proprietary MOS2, (moly disulfide), buy the liquid moly stuff Uc you want something similar, 6 months oil changes, my car does not uses any oil to speak for. I�m in Texas, i don�t track my car but I do push it past xxx miles per hour every time I take it out.
25 years of Porsche R&D from the very first M96 engines to the latest 9A2 engines and NOT a single time in any of their "A40 Approved Lists" or owner's manuals did they certify or recommend 15W50 for use in Boxster, Cayman, or 911 models for street use.
Are you telling us that we're supposed to just throw away all their manuals and ignore the advice of the people that created these cars and just blindly believe the advice of a guy that's only been on Rennlist for less than 4 weeks?
Gimme a break!
until sometime in 2019, Porsche always said 0W40, then the issues, oil consumption, bore scoring, etc so they said 5W50 Porsche Classic. So a 15W50 is not supper far away from a the 5W50 they are recommending. Now you know which one I found crazier than sht and people here accept it like crazy, unapproved oil just because someone says is ok, crazier than that people here order it by the cases and pay a fortune for it, who�s oil entity association or body this oil or oils are approved of certified by. Unless you where born yesterday you have to know which oil I�m talking about, keep on drinking the kool aid.
Are you drunk or sniffing glue? I don't understand a word you're saying.
^^^This I understand and it lines up with 25 years of common Porsche sense and the point I was trying to make to hkovalcik.
Ok, moving on and chalking up this advice as about as useful as **** on a bull. Gave you a chance to provide some proof and you fell flat on your face.
Good? Good in as what??
What you drinking while typing?
One minute you're telling us A40 approval oil is like the gold standard. I think, why should we upset the delicate additive balance? Then, you say oils like Driven DT40 are suspect (i.e. Kool Aid); but yet, you turn around and add MoS2 additive to M1 OW40? Then, next you say although LiquiMoly has a low TBN, but you still wouldn't "put that in my car" and then you say it's ok to use the LiquiMoly additive? Then you say, the "highest weight I'd go with is - maybe - 10W", but then you turn around and say 15W50 is fine because it's not far from 5W50?
Here's what you typed:
"
until sometime in 2019, Porsche always said 0W40, then the issues, oil consumption, bore scoring, etc so they said 5W50 Porsche Classic. So a 15W50 is not supper far away from a the 5W50 they are recommending. Now you know which one I found crazier than sht and people here accept it like crazy, unapproved oil just because someone says is ok, crazier than that people here order it by the cases and pay a fortune for it, who’s oil entity association or body this oil or oils are approved of certified by. Unless you where born yesterday you have to know which oil I’m talking about, keep on drinking the kool aid."
Sorry buddy, that's not plain English. "15W50 is not *supper* far away"??? What do you mean it's "not supper far away"?
If that's the case, then why would you even want to disrupt the delicate additive balance that a company like Mobile 1 spent countless hours perfecting in a lab by adding a bottle of
molybdenum disulfide?
Isn't there good scientific reason(s) why Porsche wants a reduction in Moly in their modern sports cars?
And then if it's NOT bad for our cars, then why is a product like DT40 with it's high concentration levels of Moly and ZDDP not something you'd consider? Why would a company like Liqui Moly not add higher levels of Moly to their existing A40 oils if their MoS2 is such a great friction reducer? Maybe because it wouldn't get A40 approval by Porsche? Possibly the reason Driven doesn't bother with spending thousands to get the A40 stamp of approval?
I stand corrected! They even recommended mineral based oils back then too.
However, it appears that since 2005 with the advances in synthetic technology, Porsche A40 approvals don't include oils above 5W50 for street use on any of the M96, M97, MA1, or MA2 engines. The latest Porsche A40 approved list was released in 2020. Not sure if one was released in 2021.
Remember, as lubrication technology advances so does the official recommendations. That's why you don't always believe everything that's printed in a manual that 20 years old.
Thanks for that input! Every day is a classroom for me and always enjoy a good debate!
the moly disulfide than I�m adding is a propietary technology product. You can�t buy it. A lot of the stuff that they tell you for modern cars
has to do with keeping the emissions systems working as they should for a long time replacing catalytic converters is expensive. I was in product development and we
would test a bunch of stuff there are things that I can�t disclose due to NDA but all I�m saying is that the liquid moly mos2 is ok, ie it�s beneficial. Their oil no so good. Regarding Mobil I spoke with people at another level, not anybody will be able to get there. Anyway to each his own. I know how to make cars last and perform so I�ll do what I need with my car. Already 55 degrees here, I�m wearing shorts and at lunch time I�m taking my son for a ride and Chicago style deep dish pizza with IPAs.
Yeah but thankfully we have a knowledgeable trigonometrist to point people in the right direction with clear and concise posts. Bet the Ferrari forums don't even have that.
i think that sometimes I don�t explain things because I�m thinking I�m in a scenario where everyone knows what I know. I can�t impart over 20 years of knowledge in a one page thread. So here it goes: as
stephen R covey says (the seven habits of highly effective people) begin with the end in mind, in this case
what approvals you want for your oil. The additives companies, 20 percent of the formula , spend millions and millions of dollars to get data on how
chemistries perform on different base oils. When you as a motor oil company go to them, they have to
narrow down which baseoils you
Are going to use to formulate your product. Anyway the importance of this is that the different engine tests that can cost a bundle have certain interchanges performance wise with other tests. So if you want or need a certain api spec and an acea spec you may not have to run the full battery of tests as long as they stay within the interchange guidelines. These changes with every spec. So In plain English if a certain api engine sequence test is past with this score, you don�t have to run the acea engine test. Anyway the additives companies, ethyl, lubrizol , paramins, whoever they are price the product to you, expecting a return of investment, assuming a certain sales volume in gallons and that the spec will be in for a certain amount of time so they can get
their investment back. When they build an engine test package for you they are looking at all the variables, so
also if for whatever reasons your formulation missed an engine test, you can tweak it between set parameters using the same baseoils without having to run the full battery of tests to get your approvals. If anyone has a specific question about something please come forward, I will disclose explain as much as possible.
