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YOUR RESEARCH2002 C2 Rear Drop Links
Leading reported evidence
Replace rear drop links
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
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Suggestion · Original poster
What do i look for in order to change my Rear Drop Links.
Leading evidence: 'Replace rear drop links' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace rear drop links' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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7 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
911uk: 1 discussions
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What do i look for in order to change my Rear Drop Links. On removing my anti roll bar, you have to remove the nut. It came off with no issues and the rubbers are in good order and with good movement. Other than changing them for the sake of it, what do i look for to determine if they need changing. Hopefully not a dull question
Boots split and/or sloppy joints is when i'd replace them. Cheap enough , just do them if they're old , they can be slightly challenging to get off sometimes so soak the threads prior for a day or 2.
Sometimes it's hard to tell if they're no good, they can seem fine when inspected or with them in your hand, but still be the source of a knock. The forces they are under in use is much higher so unless they have obvious play you can't always tell. They typically make a knocking or chattery noise. If you're trying to fix a noise like that then as they are cheap just change them.
If you are just wondering if they might be worn out but have no suspension noises, then there's nothing wrong with them.
To know if there is any wear in them, place a nut on the threaded end and clamp tight in a vice (make sure the thread is tightly clamped in the nut). Hold the other end of the drop link and try pushing and pulling to ward the end in the vice. Do this in various positions (e.g. 1 o clock, 2 o clock, 3 o clock and continue until 12 o clock). Once you've done one threaded end, spin it round and repeat on the other.
The tiniest bit of movement back and forth will create a knock when back on the car.
I do this method offline with all suspension part ball sockets. If you've wanting to eliminate the knock without replacing the part (for example whilst you wait for a new part or you're a chep bastard), you can sometimes get away with just rotating the position the ball is in the socket 90 degrees and clamping it back in position as the wear in the ball and socket is usually just linear.
I've done this a few times, I also did it with one of the idlers on my Defender. It had been howling for a while, I took the cover off the bearing and washed it out, there was a groove across the inner race, I regreased and put the groove on the opposite side to the belt tension. Started the engine and the noise was gone, and stayed away for years afterwards!
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