996 Carrera - Help with Remote Control fault and Lifter Noise issue...

Hello All; I have a 996 Carrera MY 1999 @ 98.000km (54.000 Miles) with Tiptronic - 3.4 Liter I have some issues with my car; I hope someone can help with me in this forum. Because; in my hometown; there are not much Porsche private services, and the current services are not much qualified with these kind of issues. They are expert just for standard servicing operations Only 1 authorized service in this place; but the prices 3 or 4 times higher than your countries My car's engine renewed @ 85.000 km (renewed means main crank changed with the new one; and the all parts checked and cleaned repairman said) I bought @ 89.000 km First; I changed the oil and filters when I bought it; with Motul X-Cess 8100 5W-40 + added Liqui Moly Ceratec; Issues and questions: � after 8000 km; I decided to renew oil again to keep away from IMS things... � I put again Motul 5W-40 and Ceratec, but it started to make a little bit valve lifter noises � my serviceman said that is wrong thing that I have to put Mobil1 0W-40 and not using Ceratec � I listened him and put Mobil1 New Life 0W-40 with the new oil filter � Then it started to make more noise Do you think the oil additives like Liqui Moly Hydro Valve additives fix this? Or what would be your suggestions? � when I asked to him about IMS bearing flange; he said it has o-ring with O type (old type, not rectangular) Do you think should I have to change this flange with the new type? Will I get any fault because of this? � We changed the A/T fluid; but we could not change oil for differential; because there is no drain hole under it? Do you know how do we change its fluid? And needed to be changed? � I bought a new remote controller from Germany dealer; bring it to my local dealer to program it; � It wored fine but after 1 week; it stopped to work � When I checked it with china PIWIS + Durametric it gave an error like: Terminal 86S .... Do you think why it started to stop? What should I do? � It's rear spoiler seems work fine; but when it started to open or close; the red light is coming on. � After 120 km/h it is always opening. � But below 60 km/h it is not ALWAYS closing, it is closing sometimes, but not all the times. � I tried to fix this but I could not, I could just make it greasy and cut the noises during working. There is some micro switches, but I think the error/issue is related with them, where can I find right scheme for these switches? Last one; I read some live info from Durametric; Can someone analyze them? Is there anything wrong after engine renew by my serviceman? Should I be careful or worried about something? Thank you very much for your supports.... RPM : 680 rpm Load Signal : 1,05 ms Air mass : 13,00 kg/h Hot film maf : 1,23 V Voltage : 13,68 V IATS : 37,5 *C ECTS : 76,5 *C Throttle plate angle : 0 % Ignition timing : 6,8 *crk Spec. Air mass : 14 kg/h Spec. Air adaptation : -3 kg/h Ambient pressure : 825 hPa Injection time : 2,9 ms Exh. Temp. After cat. : 52 *C Oil temp. : 66,0 *C Engine compartment : 48 *C Oxygen sensing, cylinders 1-3 : 1,02 Oxygen sensing, cylinders 4-6 : 0,98 Range 2 Cylinder 1-3 (FRA) : 1,05 Range 2 Cylinder 4-6 (FRA2) : 1,03 Range 1 Cylinder 1-3 (TRA) : 0,08 Range 1 Cylinder 4-6 (TRA2) : 0,12 O2 sensor volt. ahead of cat. : 0,76 V O2 sensor volt. ahead of cat. Bank#2 : 0,12 V Camshaft pos. 1 dev. : 6,0 *crk HO2S heat. Res. Ah. Of cat. Conv. : 3,2 Ohm Rough-running threshold : 8,4 1/s2 Segment ( A ) : 0,0998 Segment ( B ) : 0,9999 Misfire dtection : Active

Quotes source post: 12751155

Who did the engine renewing? There is more to a proper engine renewing, rebuilding, than swapping out a bad crank. What caused the crank to need to be swapped out in the first place? Did any crank/rod bearings partially disintegrate and possibly contaminate the rest of the engine? The 5w-40 oil shouldn't have caused any problems and the same goes for the additive, unless you used 5w-40 in extreme cold (-25C) in which case the cylinders can experience bore scoring as the 5w-40 oil is too thick to properly lubricate the cylinders/rings/pistons in real cold operating conditions. Even with 0w-40 oil you need to be easy on the engine as it can take a long time for it to warm up. Even if I could hear the engine I'm not qualified to offer a professional diagnosis. The noise could be not due to oil but just a bum lifter. They can collapse. A cam lobe can go flat, too. There can be an oil supply/pressure problem too, the lifters/etc are running with insufficient pressure or supply. It is very unlikely a change in oil will quiet the engine. If the engine has a real mechanical problem oil's not going to help. The noise doesn't have to be coming from the lifters. There are other sources of noise. Can you trust the diagnosis the noise is indeed coming from the lifters/valve train? I'm at the office and can't consult my reference for how to change the diff fluid in a Tip equipped car. The diff fluid is not at the critical change by miles -- it is 90K miles IIRC -- but since you changed the Tip fluid now's a good time to change the diff fluid too. Someone else I'm sure can offer some help as well and even go further and address your spoiler question and key question. I'm the office and under time pressure so I have to cut this short.

Quotes source post: 12751313

Thank you and much thanks to you for your reply ... I asked that the serviceman; and he said there are lots of other things changed with this engine (he is expert with this engines; I guess he renewed 11-12 engines before) He is saying this lifter noise that I heard related with the engine oil; because we are hearing this noise while engine is idling. When I touch the throttle very softly; noise is going completely... I am gonna try to turn to Motul oil with that valve fixing oil additive. Hope it will help... I already find that solution to changing gear oil; it should be done with a suction. Now I need to solve this remote key thing.

Quotes source post: 12752470

For the noise to be present at idle -- is this hot idle? -- and go away with a bit of rise in RPMs suggests a real low oil pressure at idle. What is the hot idle oil pressure? And what is the oil pressure at the high RPM and engine temperature the factor calls for? What oil does the tech propose you use to eliminate this noise at idle? My concern is a healthy 996 engine doesn't require any special oil or additive to eliminate valve clatter at idle. There can be a bit of clatter/tickity-ticking at startup but this should be very brief and at no other time cold or hot should the engine manifest any periodic/regular ticking. Oh sure one might hear something like this but when he listens again it is gone. This the brain seeking a pattern when there really isn't any to be found. Even high mileage engines are relative quiet with even 0w-40 oil. Quiet enough that at least my case I do not hear anything that even remotely suggests any valve noise -- or noise arising from any area of the engine -- worthy of concern. I have nothing else to offer. Try the recommended oil and additive and see if that helps. I sincerely hope it does help and I hope it doesn't require you to run some oil that might quiet the noise but at the risk of providing sub-par lubrication at other just as critical times and places in the engine. As for the remote key problem, the Terminal 86 S error could arise from a bad fuse. Check fuse E1. If bad there can be a short and you would need to find the cause. This can arise perhaps from water in the cabin. Check the floor of the cabin underneath the seats for any signs of dampness. Even if they are dry be sure you check the body water drains and clean out any leaf/plant trash that might have collected there. If the cabin floor is dry the problem could be with the ignition switch.

Hello Macster; is this hot idle? yes and no; in yes; the noise is slightly soft and low; in cold engine; it is higher. I already check the hot pressure : 1,2 bar at idle; 4,9 bar at 5000rpm (at 90*C engine temp) my tech saying forget the noise and just drive the car but I don't want to let him rich in the near future :P Yes; as always my brain is seeking a problem; but I am sure; if this noise was there before; I would sure be aware. It had not been there; so I am hearing it just now In my country (-10*C in winter; +38*C in summer) do you think which is the best? 0W-40 5W-40 or 5W-50 ? I checked the fuse already although it was Ok but changed with the new one. still same. I checked that control unit without removing seat, it seems Ok but; I will try to clean connectors with cleaner spray. What is inside the ignition switch? Can it be repaired thing?

Quotes source post: 12753361

Ok, things are starting to come into focus now. I think your tech is wise to you and your over active imagination. Briefly these are internal combustion reciprocating engines. Valves are opening and closing, spark plugs are sparking, fuel injectors are opening and closing and so on. As a result the engines make noise like ticks and such. Any of the oils you listed are recognized by Porsche as suitable to use. Well, assuming you pick an oil off the approved oils list. -10C to 38C is 14F to 100F so you could run a 5w-50 oil but at the low temperatures the engine might crank a bit better with 0w-40 oil and of course at 100F still have the same high temperature oil viscosity as a 5w-40 oil. 100F is "hot" but my Boxster's coolant temperature has gotten up to 226F -- the hottest I've ever seen it get -- on cooler days and the engine was just fine with 0w-40. I had my 2003 Turbo back in the mid-west last winter and it had 5w-50 oil in the engine and ambient temperatures got down the low single digits, like 1F (-17C) and the engine was fine. 'course I let the engine idle a while before driving off and kept RPMs no higher than 3K until the engine was warmed up. It never got real warm so I avoided high RPMs the whole time I was back there. Had I thought about it some before I left town I think I would have preferred to go back there with 0w-40 oil though. -17C is getting close to -25C and I sure don't want to bore score the Turbo's cylinders. Whatever oil you run pay attention and if the start up clatter gets worse that could be a sign to change the oil. I change the oil in my cars every 5K miles. Towards that milestone I notice the engines are a bit noisier upon start up and the Boxster is more prone to smoking upon cold start. My usage of my cars is really quite constant so I take the increased noise and more frequent smoking as signs the oil's ready to replace. Oh, be careful cleaning the control unit under the seat. That's an expensive piece of electronics and it shouldn't be disturbed. If there is no sign of water in that area or in the cabin the problem lies elsewhere. The ignition switch wears out. I had the one in my Boxster replaced. I forget at what miles. You can just replace the electrical portion. While Porsche doesn't sell this separately there are other brands that work. Audi I think makes one that works or would have worked in my Boxster. If you are mechanically inclined and take your time you can do the work yourself. Bit of a bother getting at the thing and one needs to be reasonably limber. If you work on the switch be very gentle with the electrical connections and wiring. The car is "old" and so is the wiring. A lot of movement could break a wire or crack the insulation on the wire and cause you more problems. Be gentle around the switch. The antenna that transmits to and receives from the RFID pill is in that area and you don't want to break that or the car will not start.