1999 C4 cabriolet project

I know I might have gotten slightly carried away with my last project, and whilst the engine for it isn't finished yet there isn't really much for me to do on it. I need to drive it and do a few tweaks to bits here and there. I wasn't looking for another project, but sometimes things just happen. So whilst Pinky sulks in a garage, there is a new toy in town. This popped up on eBay. A 1999 C4 with manual gearbox and factory hardtop. Recently refurbed GT3 style wheels, Cruise control, hardback sports seats. Some service history and the same owner for about 15 years. It hasn't been used much recently and the owner doesn't want to pay for the jobs that need doing on it as he isn't using it. So it is being sold to be fixed up The condition is generally very good for a 22 year old car. Interior could do with a good clean and a tidy up. Window regulator is broken, which is stopping the roof from working. Some minor rust on the hardtop and a scratch on the rear quarter. Drain holes blocked on one side in the scuttle, sorted this straight away. The thing that will be holding this back from resale most though is the engine. It runs file, but it is on 120k miles. As such it will benefit from a preventative rebuild. So, as it stands my current issues are: Not charging Drivers side window regulator bust Leak from front radiator These are all that are stopping it from working properly, but to get it properly sorted..... Engine rebuild, consisting of. Reround and restrictor rings on cylinders New rings New big end and main bearings Large diameter IMS New chains and guides Head pressure test and rebuild with new oil seals Oil pump and water pump AOS Low temperature thermostat Sort out the bodywork. Minor rust underneath and a few tiny bits on the main body Brake pipes and brakes as required Caliper refurb Paint centre console to body colour Tidy up the seats, possibly paint seat backs Check the hood Clean headlights Fit front grills Change condensers if needed With that lot done, the lack of recent service history will be rendered irrelevant and I should be left with a very solid early C4 to sell on or keep and enjoy for the next 100k miles. As before I'll be trying to document each job as I go along, and unlike on Pinky I'll most likely keep track of spending to keep it sensible and possible even track my time on the job. So far, about 5 minutes to unblock the scuttle drains. Mike Brewer would be proud MC

Be worth £30k once you've sorted those jobs out with it being the best variant, best colour and best spec........apart from no heated seats. :grin: :wack:

With the engine off the battery voltage is 12.3v as measured at the engine bay. With it running it is 12v. My first suspicion is the regulator on the alternator, so I'll take the alternator off and check it. I have read that if this is a y-cable problem you can have good voltage at the engine bay but not at the battery. This just looks like it isn't running. MC

As with previous and current build threads of yours Martin, I shall be watching with interest. Quick to update your sig as well I see :thumbs:

Key in and ignition to pos 1. Disconnect battery earth. Alternator sits behind the airbox, so oil pipe off. Disconnect the MAF sensor and unclip. Undo the clip which holds the airbox to the throttle. Remove the earth bolt. Then lift the airbox out. Use a 24mm spanner to take tension off the belt. Then undo the long and short bolts. Give the long one a whack with a hammer when loosened to make sure the rear part is loose. Wiggle the alternator out. Reach round the back and unclip the field wire,and undo the main power connection. I removed the regulator but in doing so damaged it as a couple of screws on the alternator wouldn't come out. Not bothered as was changing it anyway. I noticed my spare alternator has a freewheeling clutch on it, so I'll check part number and if all is well will just fit that rather than get a new regulator. I only use it on my scrap engine for checking clearance, so basically a free fix if it works. MC

Two of the screws on the alternator just did not want to come out, in the end one of them snapped. I had a spare alternator which I just use for clearance checks on a bitza engine I have, so chekced it over and decided to go with that. Old alternator New alternator Part numbers are the same except my spare is a newer minor revision, and it has a freewheeling clutch on it, so an upgrade Refit it and get the belt on. Fit the airbox and test. Happy Days... Got the car up in the air on the ramp to have the first proper poke around underneath. As expected on a 22 year old 120k miles car there is some surface rust in place, particularly on the usual suspects like the diagonal pieces and ARBs, also on the chassis in some areas. Split ferrule on power steering pipe. Thsi will get a couple of jubilee clips for now. Front corner plates on the suspension. And some chassis bits. Next I'll be taking the front bumper off to see what is going on with the coolant leak. So far: Total time: 2 Hours Total cost: £0 MC

MC you are unbelievable with your projects! :thumbs: I saw that Cab advertised, nice low price :thumb: I'm sure it will be great when you've finished but I somehow get the feeling that you are going to get carried away!

Attempting to take the front bumper off has reminded me what working on these when they are old is like. A job which would have taken me 10 minutes on Pinky is suddenly a right pain. Two screws on each side aren't coming out so they will be attack with the die grinder on Monday. I disconnected the battery again and removed the door card. A couple of fixings were missing, a sure sign that somebody has been in and had a go before. sure enough the regulator is broken, the wire on it has snapped. I have a couple of spare doors at home so I'll pinch one out of one of those. A quick peek through the front bumper reveals that the condensers are on their way out, so I'll be changing those whether they are leaking or not. Whilst I don't want to get carried away, I want it done right. I probably won't change the condensers and coolant now, since I'll be taking the engine out, but might as well get them in. Costs: £130.14 Mahle Condensers £285.59 Mahle radiators +20l coolant Time 2 hours So far: Total time: 4 hours Total cost: £415.73

You need to set a labour rate now so the cost is more transparent.

Difficult to put a price on it as I do it for fun, and those who do it professionaly can charge massively different rates. I'm just putting it on as a rough guide since I have never kept track before and thought it might be interesting. MC

£30/hr.

He's not a dog-walker! I'd say £100/hour would be an average rate that I'd expect to pay, or thereabouts. The local Mercedes place is over £200/hour, which given they are total incompetents is closer to some sort of super-ironic performance art than car fixing.

I was coming from the angle Martin's not paying a business, he's earning a wage (labour rate). Show me a Porsche mechanic on £100/hr and I'll agree. For reference though, my car is in for a service on Wednesday. The place I'm taking it to are £35/hr+vat. Unique Porsche up here have an amazing reputation and aren't much more. Also for reference: https://www.glassdoor.co.uk/Salary/Porsche-Technician-Salaries-E10476_D_KO8,18.htm In fact, scratch my original offer, Martin - you're now on £15/hr! :grin:

Scope creep = 996 Speedster I reckon. Seriously, looks like a nice 'little" project. I'll follow with interest. Be interesting to see how that rust turns out. From the picture it looks like water has run out from inside the chassis rail. How far are you going to go with investigation?

I'll clean it all up and check any cavities I can get to. Any parts which need welding / strengthening will be done by the bodyshop, then it will get full cavity wax and underseal. MC