General maintenance cost question

First time poster here with basically zero porsche experience, so I was hoping that some of the members here might be able to answer a couple questions here. I've been doing a bunch of research into possibly buying a porsche boxster or 996, and I'm aware of the IMS bearing issue and some other minor things that happen. What I don't know though is how much a boxster or 996 costs to use on a yearly basis, for say like 5000 miles. I read that oil changes can be expensive, but I can't really tell if I'm going to be nickel and dimed to death if I buy one. Basically, what I'm trying to avoid is buying a car in the $10k to $20k range but then have it cost me $3k a year in expenses. I was originally looking at c5 Corvettes but I'm not sold on the interior in that car, so I'm expanding my scope some to c6's and the only modern porsche's I can afford, lol. It was never an option before now for me, so I'm trying to expand my horizons some. This car would be driven by both myself and my wife. I'm 6'4", so I know my height will make a boxster pretty tight possibly. Probably the biggest thing that concerns me is that when I look at used vehicles, I see tons of c5/c6 corvettes in high 100k mileage and even some boxsters up that high, but not very many 996's. So I don't know if that's because: a) nobody drives them to that high of mileage b) the repair costs at some point cause it not to be worth it anymore c) the car just physically isn't meant to go that high (which kind of is like b) I'm just in the dark about a lot of that stuff, and I've been reading a ton to catch up, but most of the responses I read haven't covered those subjects (or they weren't specific with numbers). I've owned cars like c) where the repairs were literally more than the car was worth (had a Ford probe in college that eventually got to be that way). Would prefer not to do that again. I'm just trying to educate myself before making a possible mistake. Thanks in advance for any responses, I appreciate it.

It's a Porsche! It's like a high-strung race horse, if you can't afford it don't buy it. Factor in 3-4 times the normal cost for replacement parts. If you are not a Do-It-Yourself type of person, 3K a year on a close to 20 year old 996 is nothing. Don't plan on driving to the nearest Jiffy Lube for an oil change. There are 2 million modes of failure (joking) and it will get expensive. If you start with the right car with the right maintenance records, that would be a good start. It is not a Toyota so you have to really love the car and spend the money on it. Mine is at 141K and it is simple logic with long-term car maintenance...it needs stuff replaced. So I spend the money and move on, because it is just such an awesome car. And I am a DIY person. No one else has touched my car for repairs/maintenance. I told my wife when we bought the car that it was going to be all in DIY wrenching, so sometimes the car is going to be down for days while I repair it. Same goes for our other car. Just the way I like to do it. A DIY oil change @ twice a year w/filter will run you around $200. A dealer will charge you around $400 each oil change, and Indy around $150-$200 per oil change. Just for example....let's not talk about coils/plugs, starters, AOS, water pumps and thermostats, clutch and brake items, shocks, battery's and so on wear items.....

$2500-$5000/year. budget this. If you don't spend this, the extra in the account will be for your rebuild. And it will need to be rebuild. Between 100 and 150k km usually. Wether it's because you need to replace brittle timing chain pads or because​​​​​​ your cylinders are scored, it will need a rebuild.

As you have perhaps ascertained from this forum, this comment of yours: "c) where the repairs were literally more than the car was worth (had a Ford probe in college that eventually got to be that way). Would prefer not to do that again." Can be absolutely 100% true if an engine goes south. If mine grenaded today, I would most likely opt to sell it as a roller rather than spend more than my original price on a proper engine rebuild. As far as yearly costs, that's a bit of a crapshoot and there's no real way to estimate them with these cars, IMO. I've read of people who buy seemingly perfect cars who suddenly have expensive problems, and vice versa.

Taylor34, the best advice I can give you is that owning a Porsche 996 is NOT the best choice for anyone on a budget or worried about maintenance costs. It's really not. There is no such thing as a "cheap" Porsche 911, it doesn't exist. If you are stretching your budget to get into that high mileage "cheap" 911 which "only" costs $15,000 it probably needs maintenance, a lot. A suspension refresh will run $4,000 easily once all is said and done. I would go for the very best Corvette you can afford. Get the newest one possible with maintenance records. Spend the money up front for the very best example. This is also true for a 911 but the very best examples won't come cheap. Here's my actual experience: 2002 911 purchased with 117,000 miles on it for $15,900. Then I had to put about $10,000 into it to get it right and driving like a Porsche 911 should. That included wheels and tires all around, new keys, entire suspension, water pump, alternator, starter, ATF fluid and filter, differential, alignments, on and on.

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This is accurate...they are all $25-30K cars. You either buy a cheaper one then spend the balance on maintenance and repairs or you spend it up front for one that is nice and well sorted.

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996's are exactly this. Sorry to tell you :/

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^THIS. I paid $22k for an 03 C4s last Sept that upon a PPI was made aware of two things: 1. It was a pretty solid car and 2. Needed some maintenance. This was perfect for me as I'm a DIY'r. Since purchase I've: -Replaced the coolant tank, fluid flush, water pump, thermostat and several hoses -It's currently in the shop for a new clutch, RMS and IMSB (didn't wanna tackle any of this myself and was part of my plan). While they have it, they're also gonna do a AOS, brake fluid flush and inner/outer cv boots So I'll have an additional $8k into a car i just bought (again, all part of the plan). And once back home, I plan to do a full brake refresh, suspension refresh and new wheels and tires. Once all that's done, I'll have a 15 year old car with 100k on the clock, which means it's only a matter of time before it needs something else. Worth it? No, not to most. But a vette wasn't even in the running when it came time to buy a new car. If it is for you, go that route as it's a lot more bang for the buck. Just do yourself a favor and don't drive a C5 and a 996 back to back. Not saying a C5 is a bad car, it's just not a 911.

These are still $85-100k cars when new (mine stickered a tad over $100k), so when they break, they still cost what Porsches cost. 996s are a good value right now because the air-cooled snobbery is quite high, and this model did have some teething issues and people won't let it rest with the headlights... But like an early 00's Ferrari, Lambo, Jag, etc., the maintenance is still going to cost today what they cost new to keep up (if not more in some cases), so yeah, plan accordingly. All IMO anyway. I mostly bought a 996 to test the practicality of a 911 as one of two family cars, and so far it's shining through well, but that also means I'll be upgrading to a 991.1 even sooner than expected if I start to experience major issues with mine more frequently.

+1 what Nick and EJ say...

lol, even the $6K car ends up costing you $25-30. Spend it on buying a nicer one to start with...

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Sounds like it's what I feared, I shouldn't get into a vehicle like this unless I'm ready to commit some more serious cash for continual maintenance. Bummer. While I'm here, does anyone have an suggestions for something I might look at in the $10k to $20k price range that I haven't thought of? I was looking for something sporty that wouldn't cost an arm and a leg to maintain, but also has to get decent gas mileage and actually fit someone of my 6'4" height. I'd been through this list: Honda S2000--too small BMW Z3--too small C5 corvette--interior just isn't great, wasn't a fan c6 corvette--I like but really presses the price range porsche boxster and 996--too expensive to maintain viper--too expensive pontiac solstice--not my favorite Basically something fun that I or my wife could drive for trips, work sometimes, etc. My height causes major issues with a lot of the candidates unfortunately. I don't really want anything newer that's still rapidly depreciating, nor anything that's too common (you're probably like Vette's are common, but in the midwest US they aren't). I'm sure there are options I'm missing. Maybe there aren't any other options. Thanks for all the info on the maintenance, that's really good to know. Maybe someday when the kids are grown I'll think about it again.

Miata. Seriously. It checks all the boxes in your list.

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I was about to say Penn from Penn & Teller is 6' 5" and owns three Minis. But Minis aren't known for their massive reliability, at least not like a Miata. But they are fun to drive.

An e46 M3 is a fantastic car for the money, but again, if you�re not a diy�r, they can get pricey to service �. It def cheaper than a Porsche. And a bit more reliable to boot.

A Volkswagen GTI is a sporty, fun car that is economical and can handle regular day to day commuter duty, grocery getting, family hauling, as well as autocross and track time. And they don’t cost a fortune to run and maintain.

You may squeeze into a 370Z without a helmet. You'll probably have to test it yourself because I did a quick google and there are 6' 4" guys saying they both do and don't fit well. Probably gets down to your exact torso/legs proportions.

I�m going to disagree with most here and say that �you could get lucky� if you find the right car. My 88 911 only cost me about $4k over 2 years, including a clutch that broke on the racetrack. It probably wouldn�t have failed if I didn�t track it. My 2000 Boxster S only had about $2k in cost over 2 years. I had a failed fuel pump and a failed door switch. My current 996, over the last 12 months and 7,000 miles suffered from a hood latch failure and a rear window regulator failure. I replaced both myself for $600 Total. You can save a boatload of money in buying the most pristine car you can find. My 88 has a top end engine rebuild before me. The boxster S had 28,000 miles on it and was like new. My 99 996 has 48,000 miles and was like new. I didn�t do any preventative maintenance on the car other than fluids because it just didn�t need it. So yeah, you can get lucky and get away with $1-$2k per year on aeverage if you buy smart, get lucky, and do some work yourself. These cars are pretty reliable, and they will Hold their value. But always be prepared for a large expense to hit every now and again. New convertible tops, clutches, or other major work can cost a pretty penny, so shop around and make sure you find a car that won�t nickel and dime you on all the other items.

I say buy American if you want lower maintenance costs and bang for your buck. A C6 corvette would be a good choice. Or how about a V8 mustang or camaro? Hard to beat American muscle for overall value. My Camaro SS is pretty awesome, and a totally different experience from an older German car. Or if you want German, go with a GTI. I spent over $20k in a year fixing up my 996. Don�t buy one if you want to avoid high maintenance costs.

Out of curiosity, how old are you? Go down to CarMax and test drive all the cars in your price range. Porsche is not for you (yet) based on your financial situation.

Been here since breakfast, what have i learned? take normal car cost and double it b/c hey...its a Porsche then double that again. Example? brakes, $300 so $600 but reality is 1,200. tires...$500 so 1000 but reality is 2k. and thats all at indy shops. So far i'm in love and expected/budgeted for it. The porsche tax. But, i did manage to buy $30 windshield wipers at Fred Myer!!!! Probably the cheapest thing I will ever buy for it!!!! I think the per year cost will depend on how many miles you put on it, you have 3 other cars and you put 3k on it, well...you see what i'm saying. Problem is I want to drive this thing everyday, i now get how this could be a daily and why mine has such high miles. I would say go Japanese... Lexus, Z is a grt choice... Miatas are for ****bois, sorry. I think anything performance ie: AMG, M class or forced induction and high HP will cost you, no way around it. Last thing I want to sound like is elitist but after owning a few bmw and MB, you have to pay to play. Might even look at newer mustangs? Lots of grt choices out there around 20k. Maybe even a c63 or e63 but then you're back at the might as well buy a porsche.... good luck, shopping for a "new" car is fun!

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LOL! Counterpoint: Miatas rule. For 6' 4" you're going to have to modify the seats. I'm 6' 1" and actively avoid rollovers.

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$2k for tires? Really? You got robbed dude! I got Michelin PSS (certainly not the least expensive tires you can buy) shipped and installed/balanced for a little less than $900 US. Sure 996�s are not inexpensive to drive and maintain but some of your cost estimates are just silly. DIY�ing the things you can saves a lot of $ as often the largest part of the bill is labor. Shop around and buy some tools. Bottom line is that any Porsche is going to cost you one way or another - the buy in may be cheap (on a 996/986), but ownership isn�t! If you skimp on maintenance you�re just kicking the can down the road...it�ll bite you later.

$900 for all 4 mounted and balanced? I was just under 2k for the same setup in all 4 corners would be about $1300 for 4 mich pss mounted and balanced. ..or about $1600 CDN for me.

In your price range 10 - 20 k I think you could get a nice BMW 3 series coupe. I currently own a 2011 3 series BMW, I've had the car for 4 years, I can't seem to let it go so it must be doing something right. The M3s are a bit out of your price range for a nice one, but you could pick up a very nice 328 or 335 in your price range. There are SO MANY of them out there.

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Look 'em up on Tire Rack. Right around $800 for 18" staggered set-up (225 40 18 front, 265 35 18 rear). They shipped them to a local shop who mounted and balanced them for me for around $100 - did a great job.

That's where I got the $1300. C4S though

^^ Ahhhh... bigger tire sizes! Still not $2k though

I also paid about $1100 for my tires - installed, balanced, etc. Also, the folks that are suggesting a BMW would be cheaper than a Porsche - I would like to point out that my M5 cost twice as much to maintain as my Boxster S did. So, the model is what can drive the cost up or down. A base BMW will be far cheaper to maintain than an M car, but any German car can end up costing thousands per year if you are not careful. My sister has a 135i. A lovely car, and one I really strongly considered. But that car suffered from some expensive oil cooler cracking issues and some persistent brake squeal and ended up costing my sister several thousands to maintain - more than my Boxster... If folks really want to save money on a performance car, pick a Japanese car. Miata are one of the best, the Toyota 86/BRZ is one, and there are others. However, a good original Boxster S with a double row IMSB is likely to not have many issues if you find one that�s in excellent shape. I�m not a big fan of buying one that has had lots of work done either. Cars that have tens of thousands of receipts on them, even if those items were so-called �preventative,� might not have been preventative and could point to a car that�s been problematic. I like cars that have a 15-20-yr track record of nothing breaking down. That�s a good track record that might just continue on, if the car was treated well (garage kept, no salt or snow, cleaned, fluids, driven properly, etc.)

My F10 550i was horribly expensive to maintain... the reason I got rid of it. That and the engine internals kept melting due to overheating from their 'hot vee' design... Never again.

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Right! Like a 370Z!

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Thats a good choice. Although, only compared to other 2-seat equivalents. I guess I could do Infinity for the 2+2 option, which is what my mechanic drives.

Newer owner here, so I was in your position a couple months ago. You say "I was looking for something sporty that wouldn't cost an arm and a leg to maintain, but also has to get decent gas mileage and actually fit someone of my 6'4" height." Sporty goes without saying. The way I drive mine, it's thirsty and it requires premium fuel. The cost is on par with my Suburban on a per mile basis. I don't expect driving at 6'4" would be a problem. Ingress and egress might be. The steering wheel does not tilt - it telescopes, and only a couple inches. Regarding maintenance, I think there's a way to pick your fights where the cost is not an arm and a leg, but some things you just can't skimp on, e.g. the quality and types of fluids. Some costs are ridiculously high, like window and door seals or wheels. I plan to fight the "Porsche tax" on wheels. "Basically something fun that I or my wife could drive for trips, work sometimes, etc." A Carrera is the perfect car for that, especially if your drive to work includes a fun road. "Maybe someday when the kids are grown I'll think about it again." C'mon, be the cool dad. My daughter acts like she's a princess by being dropped off at high school in a car that's 5 years older than she is. Plus, she rode in the back seat for a 100 mile round trip. It's a family car, too!

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No, not in $USD, Definitely when its in CDN though.

135i are coming down in price. Might be worth a drive.

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Check out the Z4. They are in that price range, and I loved mine. It was fun and reliable. I'm 6'2" and had no issues at all with height. The nice thing about two seaters is you typically get more length room so you can lean the seat back and be comfortable. Also worth checking out the 350z and 370s may be getting into that price range as well. Other are correct about the 996. They're 25-30k cars regardless of what you pay when you buy it. If you're turning the wrench yourself its not terrible, but I'd hate to think what I would have paid if I'd taken it to a deal for everything I've done so far. That applies with most cars though.

Elvis has left the building!

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C'mon dude. 3 year old layaway ticket for 19" (outlier) tires and virtually the most expensive tire you can buy. That's apples and oranges.

If you can find a BMW 335is, that would be a good car to consider. I'm the same height as you, and had a Z3 right after they came out. Z3 / 4 should be ok, comfort wise.

lol, I didn't buy em, came on the car when I got it, the PO shelled out for them. Tires and wheels are for sale now, btw, for $1k.

I am on the other end of the spectrum from some of the owners, for now. I bought my 1999 C2 almost a year ago . When I bought it, it was a Craigslist "bring a trailer because you can't drive it home" deal. It had a bad ground and needed a new alternator, which I suspected when I bought it. I also changed the oil immediately, even though the previous owner had a receipt showing it was recently completed. Since then, I have driven it event free for 3000 miles and the only required maintenance was an oil and filter change. There are some bugs, such as at least one bad micro switch in the doors, and I smelled antifreeze recently when I drove it and I suspect it needs a new reservoir. 2018 will be completely different than 2017 when it comes to maintenance. It has had no major maintenance in the past and it has 92k miles. The engine and transmission have never been apart, or out of the car. It has the original clutch, double row IMSB, AOS, etc. I plan on doing an "engine out" this summer with IMS Solution, chain tensioner pads, deep oil sump (not sure which one yet), oil pressure plunger upgrade, AOS, coolant hoses, plugs, coils, clutch, and other "while you are in there" items. I suspect it will cost me 5k, or so, in parts. As someone said earlier, these are 20+k cars, whether you purchase it inexpensively, like I did, and spend the money later, or pay up front. There can be a problem with paying up front if you are not getting what you think you are getting. If you buy it at a non-specialist dealer, you are paying full price and it is somewhat of a crapshoot. The dealer often has no records and knows nothing about the car, but they want top dollar. If you decide you don't want to go the 996 route and want something relatively inexpensive that should be reliable, I would look into a 2011 or newer Mustang GT with the 5.0. I have owned several GTs and the V8 torque is addicting. I am thinking of getting another as my next daily driver if my Mazda3 dies, which it probably won't, at least not until it has over 200k miles based on our past and current experience with Mazda3s and a Mazda MPV.

Lots of people call us looking for our opinion of cars they are considering and guidance with a purchase. The best money spent is a proper PPI along with dropping the oil pan, oil change, compression and leakdown test, and finally, borescope inspection. If you spend the $1k or more on this, you will save in the long run. I tell people to buy as new a car as you can afford while keeping $5-6k set aside for immediate preventative maintenance. If you address all the main areas of concern up front, you can hopefully plan on several years of trouble free ownership, barring unforeseen failures that no one can predict or completely rule out. The main point I want to throw out is not to shy away from 06-08 cars because of the IMS bearing not being serviceable. This is a non-issue in my book.

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