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YOUR RESEARCH996 C2-99 Engine center brace removal issues
Leading reported evidence
Use rebuild
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No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
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Suggestion
out of interest, who are you using for the rebuild?
Leading evidence: 'Use rebuild' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Use rebuild' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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911uk: 1 discussions
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Im dropping the engine on my 996 following the guide from Pelican parts.
The guide is mostly correct, but Im having trouble removing the center brace under the gearbox. Ive loosened the 4 bolts (lower removed, top ones only loosened as in the guide). The brace is still solid. Tried using the slide hammer, but no movement.
Is there any tips and tricks that Ive missed?
The process has otherwise been relatively smooth besides a sheared of bolt to the slave cylinder, this is the last step before the drop
I'd remove to top bolts if possible as the member (even though slotted there) maybe snagging on the bolts. Also maybe try a bit of heat (haird dryer would probably warm it up enough without going any damage)on the subframe bracket on either side to open up the width of the aperture the members slots in to. I'd just try pulling down/moving one side first. Maybe try tapping it upwards as well as down to free it up. Get some wd40 sprayed around it too to help.
I'm sure your not, but obviously there should be no weight on the wheels and the car should not be supported by the side subframes. That being the case id follow Alex's advice and remove all the bolts and pull harder!
Sorry for not providing all info
The car is on jack stands placed at original lifting points. Wheels are removed, so no weight on the chassie.
Ok, then my plan is to wd40 the upper bolts and loosen it up a bit. Then a bit more force.
Update: After some WD40 and wiggling with the upper bolts it was loose enough for the sliding hammer to work.
The guide says to drain the transmission oil, is that necessary? Being a manual transmission with no oil cooler?
Oil leaks are present…
At least RMS and AOS as seen in the picture (or maybe the tensioner). IMS is main reason for the engine drop but it will be a rebuild due to the high milage and many service items needing replacement.
My engine is still in the workshop being rebuilt. Chain guides were really bad and bearings pretty worn, but no scratches on the crank shaft. Cylinder liners looked OK, one piston had minor scratches (will be changed to a 2nd hand one that the engine builder had from a previous build). All in all it was time, but I did not wait too long.
Rings, bearings, chains, aos, gaskets and other consumables. IMS looked ok, but will be done ”while in there”. He did not found a reason for my glitter in the oil, but the filter being clean might suggest it beeing sludge in the bottom of the sump from the 187k miles driven… He has built many of these before, so I trust his judgement.
