15 captured repliesPartial discussion capture · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHNew suspension all round?
Leading reported evidence
Replace not too long ago
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Having spent a lot of time under the car now, I'm of the opinion that the rear control arms etc have all been replaced not too long ago.
Leading evidence: 'Replace not too long ago' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace fronts' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I've changed virtually every suspension part on my car in my ownership, but never done any at the same time (obviously both sides at the same time but only one part, eg.
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Suggestion
If you change your fronts, it'll highlight your rears need doing.
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Suggestion
You'll either have to use a reciprocating saw or an angle grinder.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I've changed virtually every suspension part on my car in my ownership, but never done any at the same time (obviously both sides at the same time but only one part, eg.
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15 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
911uk: 1 discussions
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Looks like it's never been changed ... and it spent most of its life in Scotland
Is the external condition of the shocks an indicator that they should probably be changed? they feel fine, but that's with nothing for me to comp
are.
If you change your fronts, it'll highlight your rears need doing. You'll soon find that out when you brake hard and snake all over the road so keep that in mind. I did my fronts for a second time around feb last year. I was a bit skint at the time and my drivers side spring snapped. New set of springs from my local OPC were something like £150 for the pair. There was a shortage at the time of Bilsteins in the UK 9probs down to all the potholes) so I ended up buying some from rosepassion in France. I thought I'll just buy one and do the snapped side and then buy the other next month when I do the other. Fortunately they sent me 2 by accident.....which helped on the cost
I've changed virtually every suspension part on my car in my ownership, but never done any at the same time (obviously both sides at the same time but only one part, eg. coffin arms). If you do your own spannering it can work out quite cost effective doing it this way as you're not paying any labour. You also manage to get stuff at a fraction of the cost if you do it at your leisure, for example, someone was selling a pair of brand new and sealed original rear shocks for a 3rd of the price off Porsche.
Is that tamper proof yellow paint on your coffin arm nut? If so I'm guessing somethings been replaced.
Also, if you take any parts off, it's easy to check if there's any play in them......not so easy on the car as the suspension on these cars is really tight. Makes the job easier when you do replace them too.
quite tempted to just buy everything like this
Porsche 996 C2 Full Suspension Refresh With Gecko Coilovers Porsche Car Parts - Spyder Performance
Porsche 996 C2 Full Suspension Refresh With Gecko Coilovers - Spyder Performance
www.spyderperformance.com
I bought my car with that kit fitted.
When its time for replacement, i will go bilstein dampers and a spring (eibach or h&r most likely)
Nothing wrong with it per se, but standard would be my preference.
I’d start spraying all the nuts and bolts with a fluid now and keep doing it weekly until its time to strip down.
Doesn’t matter who’s doing the work, it’ll save you time and money or both.
The brake pipes look ok but I’d have a good inspection and get fluid on the tube nuts as well.
You'll likely have to cut the eccentric rear bolts as they seize in the bush on the arm, unless they've already been done and gunked up with grease. Fronts are usually OK.
My view on this is that if the shocks are not leaking and the damping is fine, I'd leave well alone and look at the control arms, thrust arms, sway bar end links, etc. Also, as Alex said, once you replace parts on these cars, you'll start hearing other noises, such as creaks and knocks. It's never done until it's all done. But it is a real commitment once you start, so only go there if you're up for it.
Having spent a lot of time under the car now, I'm of the opinion that the rear control arms etc have all been replaced not too long ago. The bolts all have yellow paint marks, and the bushes look pretty clean. As there are no creaks, knocks or clunks I think I'll probably save my money for something else!
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