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YOUR RESEARCH2004 4S coolant puked out...
Leading reported evidence
Use porsche coolant
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Leading evidence: 'Use porsche coolant' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check by hand all the pulleys' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I pre-mix in a 5gal bucket then I use the vacuum lift to fill.
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Suggestion
This exact problem happened to me after cleaning the engine bay.
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Suggestion
If you fill the coolant tank, it will leak from this joint without the engine running and no pressure, just gravity.
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I had it fixed at my Indy, as I'm not that handy when it comes to engine stuff.
So, sitting at a red light yesterday. I smell burning coolant and then look in the rear view mirror to see steam coming out of the back of the car. Car just puked its coolant.
I had figured it's the coolant reservoir but, upon inspection, looks like the tank is ok. Also noticed no coolant under the reservoir but all over the air box. Obviously, it was pushing coolant out under pressure it wasn't just pouring out.
Someone suggested it may be the reservoir cap. Picking one up today and putting it on to see if that solves the issue.
Now, obviously I need to replace the lost coolant (zero coolant in the reservoir tank). However, first, how much coolant do I need to buy? Second, do I have to figure out how to bleed the system since it seems like (essentially) all of the coolant was lost?
If I have to bleed it, I've seen different ways of bleeding the system, what's the easiest for a not-so-handy guy? I mean, I'm not a total idiot, just a partial idiot.
Thanks,
You don�t absolutely need to use a �pressure bleeder/fill� system, but it sure makes it easier to fill the system without introducing air. You don�t mention how much coolant you lost, or how you lost it�(ie: was it a hose, a fitting, what?) whatever you decide to do (how you fill it) fix the leak first, as it�s not going to fix itself� Good Luck
I don't know how much I lost and I'm not sure why but believe it may have been the reservoir cap. Replacing that today to see if it works but not sure about refilling coolant. How much, etc.
~6 gallons of coolant, so ~3 gallons of porsche antifreeze and ~3 gallons of distilled water.
What I would do, after replacing the cap, is to drain the remainder of the coolant
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...pump-tips.html
then get yourself a tool called the Airlift 2 with this tool you will be able to get negative pressure in the cooling system and see if it is air/water tight by turning off the air and letting it sit for a minute and seeing if any pressure drops in the gauge. If it does, then it's not the cap and you have a coolant leak somewhere else.
You Tube
Check that damn plastic coolant fitting next to the alternator. Could be cracked...or split. Strange to have coolant all over the air filter box...
Refill with Porsche coolant (pink) and distilled water at 50/50 mix. Don't mix antifreeze types, it could turn to gel.
Welp, not the cap...doesn't look like it's the reservoir. Poured in coolant and it just started leaking. Can't tell from here, somewhere on the left rear of the engine (looking at the back of the car). Here are some photos but I don't know they are very helpful.
I can't see where it's coming from but it's definitely coming from somewhere farther up, just dropping off that point you see in the photos.
Looks to me like that spring clamp on the coolant hose is the leak. Replace it with a SS worm clamp. I had to replace one and I used a Dremel with a cutting wheel and VERY CAREFULLY cut the spring clamp so I could remove it without taking off the hose and losing all the coolant. Been good for over 10 years.
At first I thought that but fluid is definitely coming from somewhere farther up. That's just a small low point so it's just running/dripping off that point. But, I'm not a mechanic by any means...
Honestly, it's way over my head in trying to diagnose unfortunately. I am going to remove the airbox to see whether that shows me where it's coming from.
My guess would be here:
My tank leaked so since I was opening the cooling system, I decided to change out the plastic joint to a metal one.
My coolant had only 3000 miles on it, so I did not change it out. I turkey basted it out of the coolant tank, replaced tank and the above noted joint and just added coolant and let the system purge it self over a few dries with the purge valve open.
Based on your description, if this joint is broken, I'm pretty sure it is a direct connect to the coolant tank. If you fill the coolant tank, it will leak from this joint without the engine running and no pressure, just gravity.
This exact problem happened to me after cleaning the engine bay. Somehow, I broke that plastic fitting, and the engine dumped most of the coolant. It's best to replace it with a metal fitting.
Amazing that such a small piece of plastic tubing can leave you stranded and damage the engine if not caught early.
Yeah, love these cars but never ceases to amaze me at how they allow such a cheap part to create these failures. I know they can't be perfect but come on...
Maybe you didn't read that correctly. SS and billet aluminum connector piece with SS hardware. I have one and can attest to its quality. Definitely an upgrade for some stupid plastic piece that can strand you and take out your engine.
Looks like its time for a pump as well , for a fill from dry on my 996.2 , it took almost 6 gallons. (3 CSF radiators )
So three jugs of concentrate coolant and 3 jugs of distilled water. I use the Porsche coolant,
its good stuff and its 1 time every 80K or so replacement for me..
I pre-mix in a 5gal bucket then I use the vacuum lift to fill. (I cant even imagine trying to do this anymore without it, I even use it on my jeep. )
I put the mixed remainder back in one of the jugs for any small top offs needed later.. it doesn't go bad on the shelf...
I'm just trying to figure out how to troubleshoot this. I'm not terribly-handy but willing to learn. I can find plenty of videos on how to replace all of this but I don't know how to diagnose what it is.
I haven't had a chance to remove the airbox yet to take a look--getting prepped for big SB party (big Eagles' fan here) so I haven't been able to get any more info from the car yet.
Yeah, I understand that but you have to be able to see where the leak is in order to fix it. You can't see everything without taking some things apart.
There is a field in engineering known as Failure Mode Effects and Criticality Analysis. (FMECA) The name accurately describes the analysis that takes place in the design of a piece of equipment. And it extends beyond mechanical devices. Perhaps during the era when these cars were being originally designed, Porsche did not employ a FMECA practitioner. Hopefully they do today.
^^^ The problem at the time these cars were built was that the bean counters were running the show. The engineers knew exactly where the potential for failures were, but had little say in making them better due to cost concerns�
FWIW,, the water pump is about a 60K service item.. IMHO. easier to replace than let break. And put in the low temp thermostat while your there..
My 03 with 3 radiators and the low temp stat in sub 30 degree weather cruises along nicely at 180-185.... It does take about 3 more miles to get heat in the heater...
Lucky shot. Got it in one.
I fully subscribes to 60 kmiles maintenance service of replacing the water pump, thermostat, accessory belt (every 30k), spark plugs, AOS, all three idle pulleys, and all fluid changed.
At 120K miles which is where my car just met, the list adds coolant tank, ignition coils, starter and alternator rebuilt, and coolant hoses, and borescoping.... (that brought bad news).
Being in a warmer climate is actually more reason to install a low-temp thermostat. It begins opening earlier and results in a cooler engine temperature. The themostat housing needs to come off anyway for clearance to R&R the water pump.
I lost all my coolant in under a minute last summer while driving on the interstate. Luckily, a very kind gentleman pointed out to me I was loosing coolant or it might have ended very badly.
In my case it was this plastic fitting that failed. Looks like a tiny hole, doesn't it? Still it took no time at all with the coolant under pressure to empty the entire system. I had it fixed at my Indy, as I'm not that handy when it comes to engine stuff.
It was confirmation that there is no such thing as a cheap Porsche
It doesnt make it run cooler. It just opens up sooner so the motor gets to its heat soak temp slower. Its nice if u track the car because it will help prevent overheating in a 20min session. If u drive your car for 30-40min on the street it will reach the same temp it always has.
I'm happy doing the other thermostat. Anyone know the name of it or a part number so I can order it? Also, what water pump do you suggest? I see many upgrade it. What else should I be doing while I'm in there? Just want to get everything done I can.
Thanks.
When I change the water pump on a Porsche 996/997/986/987 car, I only order Porsche or Pierburg pumps. Pierburg makes the pump for Porsche so you are getting the same thing. Both are more expensive than the non-OEM pumps. But you get what you pay for.
I would only buy a low temp thermostat from LN Engineering. Buy a Porsche water pump (or Pierberg as said above). There really is no upgrading the water pump. Plastic impeller only (no metal impeller).
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