6 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHP1531 Help with diagnosis
Leading reported evidence
Check cam timing or help troubleshoot the issue
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion · Original poster
Unfortunately I do not have a Durometric to check the cam timing or help troubleshoot the issue.
Leading evidence: 'Check cam timing or help troubleshoot the issue' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check cam timing or help troubleshoot the issue' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Well I will do some diagnostics so that I can figure out what the issue is and then decide if I want to tackle it...Stupid question is it best practice to replace the acuator and solenoid, or is it common to replace the solenoid if bad.
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Suggestion
FWIW the solenoid is not that easy to replace on a 99, you have to remove the head cover then re-seal it...it's a "Grade A" skill level DIY job...as is the Actuator replacement..
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I am assuming if there is no significant wear on the guides that it would be ok to replace the bad solenoid.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Well I will do some diagnostics so that I can figure out what the issue is and then decide if I want to tackle it...Stupid question is it best practice to replace the acuator and solenoid, or is it common to replace the solenoid if bad.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
Well I will do some diagnostics so that I can figure out what the issue is and then decide if I want to tackle it...Stupid question is it best practice to replace the acuator and solenoid, or is it common to replace the solenoid if bad.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
FWIW the solenoid is not that easy to replace on a 99, you have to remove the head cover then re-seal it...it's a "Grade A" skill level DIY job...as is the Actuator replacement..
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
Well I will do some diagnostics so that I can figure out what the issue is and then decide if I want to tackle it...Stupid question is it best practice to replace the acuator and solenoid, or is it common to replace the solenoid if bad.
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6 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T222516Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Hello all,
My 99 Coupe with 66K miles recently threw a P1531 code. I cleared it and it cam back after a day or so. The car is running great and seems to idle perfectly. Unfortunately I do not have a Durometric to check the cam timing or help troubleshoot the issue.
I have read the information here on it and understand that it might be a solenoid or the actual actuator. The solenoid looks pretty easy to replace, and I have read that the actuator is much more difficult.
Can anyone tell me the exact procedure for testing the solenoid? Do I get underneath the car, disconnect the wire and feed give it 9v while the car is running? or can it be diagnosed with 9v to while the car is off.
Any help would be greatly appreciated...
Cheers
J
With engine OFF and very quite in the garage, if you apply 9v to the solenoid you can hear it "click" if it is working..= solenoid good
With engine RUNNING and applying 9v to the working solenoid, the engine should change dramatically and may even stall = actuator AND solenoid working....
If you hear the click in the first test, yet no change in the second test, = good solenoid but bad actuator...
FWIW the solenoid is not that easy to replace on a 99, you have to remove the head cover then re-seal it...it's a "Grade A" skill level DIY job...as is the Actuator replacement..
Ok I was not getting that the solenoid bolts are under the Valve cover...Why make it easy!
Well I will do some diagnostics so that I can figure out what the issue is and then decide if I want to tackle it...Stupid question is it best practice to replace the acuator and solenoid, or is it common to replace the solenoid if bad. I am assuming if there is no significant wear on the guides that it would be ok to replace the bad solenoid.
Also how bad is it to drive with this error? As I stated the car is running fine!
Thanks for the awesome advice!
J
If you buy the actuator, it comes with its own solenoid. So if you go the actuator route, there is no need to buy a separate solenoid. It's about $1,000 now. The guide wear is not a good indication of the actuator failing. It is a seal internal to the actuator that fails and keeps it from actuating properly.
You should fix this and not drive it around like that. It only gets worse.
I have variocam parts available from my old motor if u need them. My bottom end let go 300mi after i did the seliniod, pads and actuators. Pm me for details.
