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YOUR RESEARCH996 Turbo Fuel Pump Alternatives - not Required - Other causes?
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Check fuel pressure
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I'll have another good look around the vacuum lines and get the smoke tester out again once I've checked fuel pressure.
996 Turbo Fuel Pump Alternatives - not Required - Other causes?
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Leading evidence: 'Check fuel pressure' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check any differences' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Removed Y pipe and checked all vacuum lines, and all seem to be in the correct order and still in place.
996 Turbo Fuel Pump Alternatives - not Required - Other causes?
Check any differences
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Suggestion
Then I'd do a compression check on all cylinders to check for any differences.
996 Turbo Fuel Pump Alternatives - not Required - Other causes?
Check connectors
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Suggestion
Next I'd check the connectors to the coil and injector on cylinder 3 are definitely fully home until they click.
996 Turbo Fuel Pump Alternatives - not Required - Other causes?
Check on all cylinders
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Suggestion
Then I'd do a compression check on all cylinders to check for any differences.
996 Turbo Fuel Pump Alternatives - not Required - Other causes?
Check over of the boost pipes
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Suggestion
Next as Slutters says a good check over of the boost pipes to make sure they're all seated properly, in particular the ones at each end of the intercoolers!
996 Turbo Fuel Pump Alternatives - not Required - Other causes?
Replace indicating
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Suggestion
You could also activate the cam timing solenoids at tick over via durametric to see if the tickover or engine note changes indicating that they are switching.
996 Turbo Fuel Pump Alternatives - not Required - Other causes?
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With the timing all sorted, the car is booked in for an MOT (finally!) but having driven it now, I have a misfire at idle on cylinder 3, and when driving, there's a hesitation when accelerating followed by multiple misfires.
I have a fuel pressure tester on it's way, but just researching what options there are for pump replacement if it's required.
I've seen people use Walbro pump, but I can only see it for those looking to increase power. I'm likely to keep standard, or at most a "stage 1" tune. In view of this, I'm not going to need one with increased flow rate.
Any advice on what pump to go for? The standard ones are so overpriced as it comes with the swirl pot etc.
I’ve just recently replaced mine and my Indy went for oem replacement. Yes they are bloody expensive but if mine had lasted 22 years then I think that’s not bad to expect the new one to last a good few years. Design 911 had them at a reasonable price when I looked but theirs were £500-£600 from memory
Could be the internal hoses leaking in the tank. I think that's one particular one that's susceptible.
Get some proper submersible fuel hose though if you need to replace it, competition supplies stock it.
Yep, I wouldn't jump straight to suspecting the fuel pump from those symptoms. You need a proper diagnosis, these cars are complicated and old - a myriad of things could be causing it.
As above, first step is to get the codes read.
Only codes are for the misfires on the cylinders. Boost leak test done very recently and it now holds well. I'll have another good look around the vacuum lines and get the smoke tester out again once I've checked fuel pressure.
What's your oil level like?
Make sure it's at least half way between the indicator bars. Low oil can cause weird things to happen with the camshaft solenoid I believe, which can lead to misfires.
Oil level is full, plugs and coil packs are all brand new and solenoid brackets are both fine.
What readings should I be seeing for the boost sensor on the Durametric?
Hopefully it'll be something minor and you'll finally be sorted. Here's what I'd do, this is in order of ease to do.
Test fuel pressure as you are already going to do, it's very easy. You should have 3.3 bar at idle, and 3.8 bar with engine stopped and fuel pump running via durametric.
Next as Slutters says a good check over of the boost pipes to make sure they're all seated properly, in particular the ones at each end of the intercoolers!
A general look over of the engine bay looking for anything amiss too.
Next I'd check the connectors to the coil and injector on cylinder 3 are definitely fully home until they click.
Next I'd swop the plug and coil from cylinder 3 with the plug and coil from cylinder 6 and see if the misfire changes cylinder.
Then I'd do a compression check on all cylinders to check for any differences.
As rhe boost sensor has been mentioned you could try a new one or see if there's someone nearby who would let you try theirs. Did you notice how the dash boost display was behaving when you've been driving it, did it seem normal?
You could also activate the cam timing solenoids at tick over via durametric to see if the tickover or engine note changes indicating that they are switching.
You've ptobably already done this but type 996 turbo missfire into Google and have a good read!
Mac
So, Fuel pressure checked, and all good. Boost leak done and all good. Removed Y pipe and checked all vacuum lines, and all seem to be in the correct order and still in place.
Have been running through some of the values on the Durametric. Cam solenoids appear to be working. The only issue I have found is the post cat O2 sensor on bank 2 is show zero resistance and bank 1 high resistance. No fault codes for them though. I've read conflicting views about whether the post cat sensors effect fuelling or not. Could this lead to the symptoms I 'm getting? Reminder, when driving, it's very hesitant, doesn't want to rev and will randomly misfire on multiple cylinders. Check engine light comes on.
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