Re-Installing Old Engine - Options for IMSB

I recently had the misfortune of having a freshly rebuilt engine blow up after only 100 miles of break-in driving. Some of you have been following that saga here: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ok-normal.html While I haggle with the engine builder over what we're going to do to fix it, I want to re-install the original engine that came out of my car. Before doing so, I want to replace a few key components while the engine is out of the car: All three cam chain tensioners Rear main seal IMS Bearing I've already ordered the tensioners and the RMS. Now I'm wondering what my best option for IMSB is. The engine is an early '99 build and as such has the more robust dual row bearing. I'd like to replace it with something comparable in the most cost effective way possible. I know that LN offers the IMS retrofit, but it's around $1,000. I'd like to not spend that much since it's likely this engine will be being replaced again at some point in the future. I see that Pelican Parts has an IMSB kit for just a couple hundred dollars, but it would basically replace my dual row bearing with a single row. Does anyone have experience with the Pelican kit? Is it possible for me to just get an exact OEM replacement dual row IMSB from Porsche? Any other options that won't break the bank? Should I just bite the bullet and get the LN kit? It looks like Flat6Motorsports is selling a specific LN dual row retrofit for $850: https://flat6motorsports.com/product...gn=sag_organic Maybe this is the best option? Also, what special tools will I need to complete these jobs? I gather that I need to lock the cams in position to do the tensioners and the IMSB. It also looks like replacing the RMS is a fairly tricky process and takes a few special tools. I know most of these topics have been beat to death, but any general advice is appreciated. Thanks.

I have this bearing in my car. I believe if you have a stock cover you will need spirolock and a spacer for it to work. SKF 3204 A-2RS1TN9/MT33 Double Row Angular Contact Bearing I pulled the old bearing with a pilot bearing puller I borrowed from autozone.

You do need some special tools, likely a kit from LNE to do this job. Since you are going to replace the engine in a short time anyway, I would just go with the Pelican solution and not waste more money on the much more expensive Retrofit. As for the longevity of the double row bearing from factory, I once held in my hand one such bearing that was wobbling from a 2000 996 from which the bearing just came out. Don't believe it.

IMOP there is only two options, the RND RS Roller bearing if you on a tight budget and want the best "bang for the buck", or the IMS Solution if you want the best and the : "one and done" procedure... I could go into details on each of the many option available and why I would NOT chose one of them over one of these two, but I don't want to take that much time or to beat-up on them...and of course you are free to spend your money any way you want...I have my reasons and haven't taken it lightly... I know a lot of people here have said that they like having a lot of options/competition of products to keep the price down, but I don't agree with that, it takes a lot of research/experience to come to some conclusions...It's like when I go to Walmart and want to buy a jar of Peanut Butter and there are 30 different brands...I look at this wall of Peanut Butter trying to decide which one I want , I hate that... Then I go to Aldi and they have two brands, I like that. I don't have the time to research each brand or the time/energy to test each brand to see which is best or best value...I just want a good Peanut Butter... If there are any Peanut Butter Connoisseurs in here, help a brother out and narrow it down to two brands for me..

JIF...period! It is the solution of peanut butters.😜

Extra Chunky anything. Peanut butter can get to be like craft beers, people make low volume stuff and the choices can be daunting. I like chunky. Extra chunky. Done.

One advantage of going with LN is that they will loan you the tools necessary for the IMS bearing (I believe they still do that). Maybe we could also sweet talk them into loaning you the rms install tool.

Quotes source post: 18635525

Jif creamy FTW!

Peanut butter from the health food store,you grind it your self…..good stuff.

@Jagtem , I just replaced my first LN Retro with a second this past April. First one worked perfectly and came out looking brand new after 10 years and alot of track days. I will eventually go with the Solution when I do an elective rebuild in the next couple of years. In both cases when I used the Retro, I used the saving for other parts. You should also consider replacing the following because their failure or subpar performance can lead to engine failure or lots of headaches. 1. AOS with UAOS 2. Water Pump 3. Fuel Injectors, Ignition Coils, Spark Plugs, MAF Your 3.4 has different issues than my 3.6 as to the chains, so I will leave it up to the experts to comment. But it does make sense to do as much as you can when the engine is out and you are replacing the IMSB. RMS, look over the clutch and flywheel, etc. Good luck with getting the 3.4 ready to install and with coming to a resolution with your engine builder.

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Glenn is right and has a good list of PM's...the only thing to add would be vario-cam pads on the 3.4, they're only about $20 a set and I like to replace them anytime I get close to them,,so if they haven't been changed in a while it would be a good time. Replacing the vario-cam pads is a bit more technical than most DIY'ers can do without a lot of research and study since you have to deal with cam timing and some special precautions in sealing the head cover, especially care not to get too much silicone in the oil drain path of the cam bearing drain slots....I've seen many "first timers" botch the resealing procedure and blow the cam plugs out from stopped up drain slots...