Another micro switch issue

I think I have a micro switch going bad on my driver door, but I'm running into something I have yet to read about. Wondering if anyone has run into the same and has some advice. When I open the door from the outside, the window drops, but then comes back up when I release the handle. If I lift the handle, or the door contacts the striker when it starts to close, the window drops again and the door closes as it should, and the window comes back up once closed. Here is the weird part, if I open the door from the inside, everything works as it should. Window drops, and stays dropped until door is shut. There cant be two separate micro switches for the inside and outside handles, right? It's it all off one cable system? Sode note: passenger door works fine, inside and outside, as it should. TIA

There are three micro switches in each door. One in the interior handle. One in the exterior handle. And one in the door latch mechanism. If the window drops when you pull the handle but goes back up when you release it, it's most likely the door latch. That micro switch determines whether the door is open or closed.

sounds like the micro switch on the door lock latch mechanism is starting to fail. When you open the door from the outside and the window pops back up when you release the handle move the door latch (the part on the door that locks against the stricker on the frame) up a little and your window should drop back down. I'm afraid you can't just replace the micro switch you have to replace the entire door lock latch mechanism. Since your window drops when you open from the inside the different micro switch that's activated by the inside door latch is working just fine. You have two seperate micro switches, one controlled by the outside door latch and one controlled by the inside door latch. look up door lock latch mechanism....it's a doable DIY repair. Just make sure if you do it yourself that you don't turn on the ignition when you remove your side air bag or you'll set off the airbag light.... ask me how i know ;-).... there's some great write up on how to replace it.

As mlee2122 said, it's a DIY repair - a little fiddly when it comes to reattaching the exterior handle but doable. You can find a replacement door latch online for about $150. I've replaced my passenger side exterior micro switch and my driver side door latch. The odd thing is that my driver side door latch broke while I was replacing my passenger micro switch. Stuff happens to 15+ year old cars.

Could be the same issue I had.....not necessarilly the switch. Google 'repairing door latch porsche' and you will find this british guy that shows how to disassemble the latch assembly. Before you do that trace the 2 wires that go to the mechanical part of the latch and find the metal retaining clip....remove it and it will expose the micro switch and more importantly the cam. Inspect the cam for rips or tears in the plastic. You can use a VW latch assembly depending on the # of pins on your plug. PN# 3D1837015AB less than 30 bucks on ebay new. There is a youtube vid on replacing this as well. There are micro switches available...the British guy sells them 15 bucks or so. Good luck.V Earlier Post: FYI....found the problem. I pulled the door latch and opened the electrical side up....all good. It turned out being the cam on the mechanical side of the latch. There is a cam that activates the door open/closed micro switch. Flat side of cam allows switch to be open which causes window to be in the up position when the door/latch is closed. The rounded part of the cam closes the switch(completes the circuit) and causes the window to drop 1/4 of an inch or so when the door is open(actually when the latch is not closed....this is the round part of the cam activating the switch causing the window to drop). The round part of the cam has a plastic covering which was eaten through from the switch so the switch was confused as to wether it should be closed or open. At 1st I cleaned off the remaining plastic and put a thin film of epoxy but there was a curing issue and it didn't work. I decided just left the bare metal cam and see if it had enough curvature on it to activate the switch....it did.....so it worked.....only for a few hrs so far.....anything changes I'll post.....V

All I can say about the door latch mechanism, once it starts acting weird - replace it. There is no "fixing" it or replacing microswitches. And if it craps out on you then you have a world of trouble. Don't even bother with any so called repair attempts. Suck it up...buy a OE Porsche replacement, install and enjoy for the next 20 years.

OK....well you certainly can do that as well!! Or....if something goes wrong just bring it to your dealership!!! V

I've experienced this kind of problem on a few of my cars including the 996. For me, it was the locking mechanism not the microswitches or window regulator. I realize that due to the design of the 996's security feature, this is not something to fool around with or wait until it breaks. Remember, there is only one way to access the car either by remote or manually using the key in the door technique. If the locking mechanism is failing on the driver side, it will be impossible to access the car, IMHO. Some people have had to break the driver side glass to get inside. If you're lucky and remote is functioning properly, you can access the car from the passenger door. But I think this is a sign to make plans to replace the locking mechanism on the door.

Here is a good thread on the door latch mechanism https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-detailed.html

Agreed. These cars are approaching 20 years old and that mechanism gets used every time you enter or exit the car. The downside with trying to get another year out of a failing latch is that you could be royally screwed when it gives up the ghost. Pay the two dollars.

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...or-opened.html Read Post #9, it really helps

DOOR MICROSWITCHES There are seven microswitches in each door which control the alarm system. Two are separate switches: a] One on the outside door handle. This switch is used to sense that the handle is lifted. b] One on the inside door handle, which has the same function. When the car is unlocked and either handle is lifted, this signals the alarm control module (ACM) to lower the appropriate window by 10mm, and turn on the interior lights. As soon as the door opens, another switch inside the door lock (explained later) tells the ACM that the door is open, which holds the window down until the door is closed, when the window is raised, and the dimming timer on the interior lights is started. Once the car is locked, the outside handle switches are ignored by the ACM. The remaining five switches are inside the door lock assembly: c] One switch senses if the door is open or closed. d] One senses that the key has been turned to the 'lock' position. e] Another senses that the key has been turned to the 'unlock' position. f] One senses that the door lock motor has reached the 'lock' position. g] Another senses that the door lock motor has reached the 'unlock' position. TYPICAL FAULTS All these microswitches can be problematic, and it is common for one or more to fail at some time. These are some of the common failures and symptoms: 1) The door window won't drop when lifting a handle. This is usually the handle microswitch which has failed. 2) The window drops, but goes back up when the door opens, or when the handle is released. This can be the handle microswitch, or more likely the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) has stuck. Because the system thinks the door is still closed, it sends the window back up. 3) Door window won't go up the last 10mm. This is likely to be the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) stuck in the opposite sense to (2). The system thinks the door is still open, so won't allow the window to go back up. Note that in this case the door will still lock, but you may get a single-beep from the alarm horn. 4) Door will not lock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (d) is broken. This is very rare, as this microswitch is hardly ever used � most times the car is locked by remote. 5) Door will not unlock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (e) is broken. This is also very rare, for the same reason. 6) Door locks, and then immediately unlocks, usually accompanied by a double-beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door locked' microswitch (f). The locking motor physically operates the door lock, but the microswitch to sense this has failed/stuck. The ACM promptly unlocks the car. In this case, the only way to lock the door is to use the emergency locking procedure. Turn the key in the door to the lock position and back three times in quick succession. 7) The door unlocks, but there is a beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door unlocked' microswitch (g). Although the door is unlocked, the ACM has not recognised that. The alarm will not sound, as turning the key in the lock has deactivated it. FIXES The inside and outside handle microswitches are available separately, and are not too expensive. Although alternative equivalent switches may be available, the genuine Porsche switch comes with a connector and wiring, so it makes sense to use an original. Part Numbers: Inside handle microswitch: 996.613.123.00 (Same both sides) Outside handle microswitch: 996.613.125.00 (Left) / 996.613.126.00 (Right) The door lock microswitches are not available separately. You have to buy the complete door lock assembly, at a cost of around $120. It has been known for people to repair the offending switch though. This is a picture of a typical failure of a 'door open/close' microswitch (courtesy of another RennTech member): OTHER SWITCHES IN THE ALARM SYSTEM The other switches and contacts in the alarm system are to monitor the lid closures: Front lid microswitch Rear lid microswitch Oddment compartment microswitch Glove box microswitch Radio contact (to detect radio theft) An open compartment or switch failure will cause a single-beep of the alarm horn on locking. A system error will cause a double-beep. Other elements of the system include an interior monitoring sensor (in the overhead lighting), an alarm readiness light (on the dashboard in the centre) and a central locking button (on the dashboard). Options are a tilt sensor (next to the battery or under the left hand seat) and an alarm siren (next to the the battery).

I'm also having a problem w/the driver's side window on my 2000 C4 Cab. The top of the window sometimes fails to drop, directly hits or hangs up on the roof frame and the top of the window has to be pushed down so that it'll clear the frame. The problem hasn't been properly diagnosed yet but an indie shop thinks it might be one of the micro switches and a dealer thinks it's the regulator. The dealer gave me an estimate of $935 (P&L) to fix it. When I leave the top down it's not an issue. I don't drive in the rain and I don't leave the car unattended while driving it. So, I really don't need to raise the top at all and will only spend the time/$ to fix this problem if the window otherwise becomes inoperable or if the roof also needs repair.

i had driver side window regulator replaced using OEM parts for about $500 by a porsche indy, dealer wanted almost double.

Quotes source post: 16092802

Hi thankyou for the great explanation. ​​​​​​do the other switch & contacts in alarm system, if bad or open , does allow the vehicle door to lock ?

If one of the other security zones is open (see "other switches in the alarm system") and you get a beep when locking, you can still lock the door. However, it is worth the trouble of finding out what is the source of the open zone and fix it.

Just my two cents worth as I'm restoring my C2 Cab and it had A LOT of corrosion. Get a can of Deoxit and clean the switches. A lot of times the green corrosive stuff affects the contacts and the switches will behave as you described. Luckily the switches are cheap(ish) but typically will spring back to life with a good cleaning.