Just broke down - Page 2 - Boxster/Cayman - PistonHeads UK

Sadly, driving home and just found I cannot select any gear. Held up a busy junction in North London but managed to pull to the side, ordered a pint and now waiting for the recovery vehicle Basically: - - With the engine running, I cannot select any gear including reverse. - I can hear a light thump when attempting reverse which suggests the input shaft is ok. - I’ve found engine off, I can select a gear and it allows me to pull away on startup (tried it slowly). Gear will then not come out with clutch fully depressed. - The car is slowly creeping forward (under drive) despite the clutch fully pressed down. Whilst waiting, anyone got any ideas? Clutch slave cylinder? Rgds Pops

Cable come loose. If so, quick fix

Hydraulic clutch, so it won't be the cable. Fingers gone soft on the diaphragm is a common one for this, but could be a master or slave cylinder leak stopping the clutch from fully releasing. If it's happened to me in other cars, I tend to put them in first before starting the engine, and then do my usual poor attempt at getting home without disengaging the clutch. Never had to attempt it in a Cayman yet. Good luck!

Cheers guys, managed to get the car back on the low loader. I'm also leaning towards it being either a slave cylinder failure or cracked pressure plate. Thinking about it more afterwards and i suspect i was doing the syncho's no justice hammering the thing into gear whilst the engine was running. Engine off, i could creep but there was no power to it. Found a few reports online suggesting others have had rotten luck with the same happening at 25k mls or 100kmls - am at 35k mls so it's a lottery. Could also be the fork or the bearing, just don't know until i get it looked at. If this turns out to just be a clutch or a related part, i'll probably consider some upgrades like a lighter clutch or single-mass/LWFW.

Look on the bright side, at least it's not a PDK issue!

Very true...just have doubts i will find a slot with a good indy this side of summer which could keep it off the road for a while. Car's been brilliant otherwise.

You didn't tell us the model and year. I'm sure not everyone here is dull enough to want to commit it to failing memory, but for some weird reason, that detail is of interest. Liam

LiamH66 said: You didn't tell us the model and year. I'm sure not everyone here is dull enough to want to commit it to failing memory, but for some weird reason, that detail is of interest. Liam This. I did not reply because of the lack of information.

Sure, it's the MY06 987s as per my profile.

LiamH66 said: Hydraulic clutch, so it won't be the cable. I meant the shifter cable When I had symptoms that sound similar to the OPs (having recently been serviced at some expense by an OPC), I took my 2006 987.1 S manual to Precision Porsche who fixed it for £50. I've gone back there for servicing since then

Update?

duncancallum said: Update? Now with the indy so should be on the ramp today/tomorrow. Will post back with the findings. mikef said: I meant the shifter cable When I had symptoms that sound similar to the OPs (having recently been serviced at some expense by an OPC), I took my 2006 987.1 S manual to Precision Porsche who fixed it for £50. I've gone back there for servicing since then My initial thoughts as well - running the short-shifter so began to think the slop in the cables needed adjusting with the tool. Noticed something wasn't quite right 6mo ago with the shifts not being as smooth and first/second not engaging as easily (even after a spirited drive) but chalked this up to a different gearbox oil that was used at service. Seems it was the start of whatever this is now.

Pressure plate failure. Seems to be metal fatigue perhaps by the fork movement on the fingers?

Relatively common failure mode, and was my first guess. If centre plates didn't wear out, it would probably be the way most clutches reached the end of their life. I have brought it on myself back in impoverished days by changing a worn out centre plate and trying to get a second go from the cover.

When did this common workshop stuff get so bloody expensive. Looking at over 3k at £140 labour. Not sure which is more irritating, this or the additional 2hrs labour for the convenience of swapping out the RMS.

Popolou said: When did this common workshop stuff get so bloody expensive. Looking at over 3k at £140 labour. Not sure which is more irritating, this or the additional 2hrs labour for the convenience of swapping out the RMS. That seems very expensive, Revolution Porsche charge circa £750-800 for a clutch with an RMS costing £100 (while theyre in there) https://revolution-porsche.co.uk/services/clutch-r...

Popolou said: When did this common workshop stuff get so bloody expensive. Looking at over 3k at £140 labour. Not sure which is more irritating, this or the additional 2hrs labour for the convenience of swapping out the RMS. Geniune parts from porsche? Depends on location but id expect £140 is probably normal in some areas in 2025. 2 hours for a RMS replacement though? Jeez

All genuine, from a well known Indy but it’s stuff like the RMS which just doesn’t sound right, casting doubt over my discussions with them.

Sounds like they are taking advantage of a punter that can’t drive away without getting work done. If you do pay it, consider putting up an itemised invoice. Naming the company entirely up to you, but it wouldn’t be naming and shaming if it were factual.

Popolou said: When did this common workshop stuff get so bloody expensive. Looking at over 3k at £140 labour. Not sure which is more irritating, this or the additional 2hrs labour for the convenience of swapping out the RMS. I had a minor service on my 987S earlier this year. Porsche Indy, not main dealer. £529. Basically an oil and filters change. I know it takes a lot of oil, but I wasn't expecting that. Especially when the same service on my Q5 at Audi (it's in Warranty) cost me £249.... However, the 987 has also been eating brake discs - warped after <1500 miles a few times. I've had a lot of work done by said Indy to investigate, and a lot of work has been done effectively FoC, because the problem didn't go away. This makes the baseline service cost more palatable.

LiamH66 said: I have brought it on myself back in impoverished days by changing a worn out centre plate and trying to get a second go from the cover. Yes, back in the day I changed a driven plate to keep a car going a bit longer at minimum cost. However, "three piece clutch" is the proper replacement and with the amount of labour cost involved on a mid-engine Porsche, absolutely essential. As someone else said, at least it's not a PDK.

Popolou said: When did this common workshop stuff get so bloody expensive. Looking at over 3k at £140 labour. Not sure which is more irritating, this or the additional 2hrs labour for the convenience of swapping out the RMS. Robbery

Popolou said: Looking at over 3k at £140 labour. Good grief. I'd be asking why they think the job is going to need so many hours.

Magnum 475 said: However, the 987 has also been eating brake discs - warped after <1500 miles a few times. I've had a lot of work done by said Indy to investigate, and a lot of work has been done effectively FoC, because the problem didn't go away. It didn't go away because it probably wasn't warped brake discs.

rlg43p said: Magnum 475 said: However, the 987 has also been eating brake discs - warped after <1500 miles a few times. I've had a lot of work done by said Indy to investigate, and a lot of work has been done effectively FoC, because the problem didn't go away. It didn't go away because it probably wasn't warped brake discs. Sticking caliper or warped hub/mounting flange.

Slippydiff said: DEMAND a photo of the leak from said seal. They may be covering their ar**, as it may be just sweating currently, but if it did started leaking properly in 12 months time, the first question you'd be asking would be "Was it showing any signs of leaking when you fitted the clutch last year ... ?" Agreed, photos do show it to be ever so slightly weeping now however. It’s the original and it’s been in there for 20+ years so I’m all for getting it out now…but with the ‘box out, i’m flummoxed why they’re insisting their processes require 2hrs technician time to remove the old and tap in the new. Does anyone have the book time for a new clutch kit, FW and fork? My workshop manual doesn’t list this sadly and I always thought it to be circa 8hrs. Cheers Pops

Popolou said: All genuine, from a well known Indy but it s stuff like the RMS which just doesn t sound right, casting doubt over my discussions with them. DEMAND a photo of the leak from said seal. They may be covering their ar**, as it may be just sweating currently, but if it did start leaking properly in 12 months time, the first question you'd be asking would be "Was it showing any signs of leaking when you fitted the clutch last year ... ?" Edited by Slippydiff on Friday 1st August 13:34

Slippydiff said: rlg43p said: Magnum 475 said: However, the 987 has also been eating brake discs - warped after <1500 miles a few times. I've had a lot of work done by said Indy to investigate, and a lot of work has been done effectively FoC, because the problem didn't go away. It didn't go away because it probably wasn't warped brake discs. Sticking caliper or warped hub/mounting flange. Not sticking calliper - already checked. We're now into possible wheel bearing problems. Warped hub flange also already checked and eliminated. They're fine for a while, then start to warp. (Apologies for thread derailment)

Well, removal at 7.37 seconds here : https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=y3VpCCf635Y&pp=y... I've no doubt there is a proper Porsche tool for removing the seal, personally I'd use the age old method of drilling and screwing a couple of self-tappers in and pulling it out using them, rather than hammering and prying it out. Installation is pretty straightforward: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=y3VpCCf635Y&pp=y... Not sure where 2 hours comes from ? If it was leaking heavily and the bellhousing was full of oil, and the flywheel contaminated with the same, I'd allow maybe an hour including flywheel removal and refitting.

Magnum 475 said: Not sticking calliper - already checked. We're now into possible wheel bearing problems. Warped hub flange also already checked and eliminated. They're fine for a while, then start to warp. (Apologies for thread derailment) How long is "a while" ? Sorry for the thread derailment too !!

Slippydiff said: Magnum 475 said: Not sticking calliper - already checked. We're now into possible wheel bearing problems. Warped hub flange also already checked and eliminated. They're fine for a while, then start to warp. (Apologies for thread derailment) How long is "a while" ? Sorry for the thread derailment too !! Between 1000 and 2000 miles, roughly. Definitely not sticking calliper or master cylinder. Definitely not hub flange. Wheel bearing run out now being checked......

Book time is 5hrs for a clutch. A good indy should be nearer 3. I can do one at home in 3.5 ish. What engine is it? Dont go to porsche for a clutch. Its just a sachs unit. Check the flywheel if its ok just carry on. I put a 9miester lightened fly and uograded clutch in mine. Parts where 1300 quid from memory

duncancallum said: Book time is 5hrs for a clutch. A good indy should be nearer 3. I can do one at home in 3.5 ish. What engine is it? Dont go to porsche for a clutch. Its just a sachs unit. Check the flywheel if its ok just carry on. I put a 9miester lightened fly and uograded clutch in mine. Parts where 1300 quid from memory Parts supply often crops up in these discussions, often genuine parts are quoted for part warranty and no come back on the indy who fitted it. Some may be open to fitting oem parts if you sign away any warranty for the reduced price.

Sachs has warranty. Ive spent more years in the motortrade than i care to admit. On a seperate note i would do the clutch release guide tube too.