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YOUR RESEARCHNeed a little brake expertise/advice
Leading reported evidence
Replace master cylinder
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Suggestion · Original poster
Jason at Warehouse33auto.com said that I might try bleeding the brakes the old fashioned, two person method rather than replacing the master cylinder.
Leading evidence: 'Replace master cylinder' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'brake systems are very similar between these two vehicles' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check leaks and corrosion' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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brake systems are very similar between these two vehicles
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Suspected cause · Original poster
thanks for indulging me with a non-996 question, but I suspect the brake systems are very similar between these two vehicles.
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Suspected cause
If it doesn't correct the problem, most likely the master cylinder.
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Suggestion · Original poster
If you know of anyone with an E53 X5, tell them to pull that panel off to check for leaks and corrosion before the ines rust through.
Clean lines up and apply some anti-corrosion treatment
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Suggestion · Original poster
They can clean the lines up and apply some anti-corrosion treatment to that small area that's prone to rust out.
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Suggestion · Original poster
The good news is that you can just buy the OE lines and use only the front half to easily replace just the corroded section by splicing onto the back half of the old line.
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Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Not for the 996, but for another German vehicle (2004 X5 - my son's DD). Looking for general brake system advice. Have spent hours combing the various forums on the internet, but not really seeing point on info.
Problem: Brake pedal travel is excessive before engaging brakes, but it does stop the car at the end of the pedal travel. You can pump the brakes 3 or 4 times and the pedal height returns to normal position, but that doesn't hold. I was thinking air in system because my son told me when it first started, he noticed the brake fluid was low. He topped it off. Still no help. I had to add some, so I immediately suspected a leak, but have found no evidence of a leak in the system. I just flushed the system with fresh fluid using a vacuum bleeder, still thinking it might just be air in the system. No change. So, I'm thinking "replace master cylinder". Jason at Warehouse33auto.com said that I might try bleeding the brakes the old fashioned, two person method rather than replacing the master cylinder.
Anybody have experience with an X5 brake problem?
Any of you brake experts have any thoughts?
thanks for indulging me with a non-996 question, but I suspect the brake systems are very similar between these two vehicles.
Assuming pads and calipers are good, then my vote goes to air in system. fix = rebleed again.
DISCLAIMER: I am not a mechanic nor an X5 owner (though I did have an 01 740iL)
x2
I recommend the Schwaben brake bleeder as a early Christmas gift for your "son"(really you).
It covers all BMW and Porsche models.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...der/ES2774831/
I forget the top of my head if that ABS system needs special bleeding or not but if PO bled the brakes or let it run dry, they may have not bled either the MC or ABS system correctly.
If something is indeed wrong with the MC, you should see it sweating at the very least around the seals.
Re-bleed. If it doesn't correct the problem, most likely the master cylinder. Same issue with my daughter's 99 jetta, replaced the master cylinder after changing almost everything and OMG do those brakes work incredible now!
+3 (or 4?) on the re-bleed. Not that a 2004 master cylinder cant be at fault but all signs point to the brake bleed. My old '71 Datsun 240Z had air in the system and it took 2 bleeds to finally pump clear fluid. Totally fixed the same issue. You can get bleeders, pumps, etc. but easier to just have someone ready to pump while you bleed. Keep the reservoir cap off and fill when it drops below the fill line. Start furthest away from the master and work to closest.
Thanks for all the input everyone. I'll try a re-bleed and if that doesn't make an improvement, I'll change the master cylinder. I'll let you know what happens.
Well, I ordered a master cylinder, but didn't install as I wanted to bleed the brakes again. We did that yesterday using the old fashioned, two person method. The brakes were a little better, but still not quite right, so today I was going to swap the master cylinder. I went out to the driveway this morning and found a big puddle of brake fluid under the driver's door. Turns out the E53 X5 has a design defect that allows the brake lines to corrode just below the driver's door due to a splash shield. The kicker is that it costs about $1,000 in labor to install about $100 in brake lines. The good news is that you can just buy the OE lines and use only the front half to easily replace just the corroded section by splicing onto the back half of the old line.
If you know of anyone with an E53 X5, tell them to pull that panel off to check for leaks and corrosion before the ines rust through. They can clean the lines up and apply some anti-corrosion treatment to that small area that's prone to rust out. This is potentially a very dangerous issue and it is very common in E53s.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
