15 captured repliesPartial discussion capture · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHBrakes and RMS
Reported or suspected cause
coming
Reported cause
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Discussions that report identifying a cause
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Reported cause · Original poster
The grinding noise turned out to be coming from one of the rear inside discs where the pad had almost "bonded" onto the disc in the wet conditions after the car hadnt been used for 10 days or so.
Leading evidence: 'coming' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'coming' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace on a similar age and milage' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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discs(7.5k miles!) - problem sorted(skimmed) foc by dealer
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Reported cause · Original poster
Driving the C4S away from the showroom after having purchased it I got vibration through the steering wheel when peeling the speed off gently - turned out to be the discs(7.5k miles!) - problem sorted(skimmed) FOC by dealer.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
One of the chaps on here had his replaced on a similar age and milage to mine cos they said it was crakced,
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I had my RMS and intermediate shaft seal replaced last week (at 20,000 on a 3 y.o.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The grinding noise turned out to be coming from one of the rear inside discs where the pad had almost "bonded" onto the disc in the wet conditions after the car hadnt been used for 10 days or so.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The grinding noise turned out to be coming from one of the rear inside discs where the pad had almost "bonded" onto the disc in the wet conditions after the car hadnt been used for 10 days or so.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
at a lot of opc`s the pay is crap so porsche pay peanuts to their staff and they employ lots of monkeys ,most of have not been trained on the older cars and can not work on them and it`s left to people like me to work on anything older than 993`s .the work is not checked often by quality control in the opc`s and their are alot of bodgers around in these workshops .on 996 and boxsters a "good" technician will always rub down the corrosion between the wheel hub and the wheel and apply some copperslip or cu800 to make sure that the wheel will not seize on the hub again.porsche don`t use copperslip on the back of the brake pads we always use new damper plates or something by wurth called antisq
Use damper plates or something by wurth called antisqueak spray
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Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion
at a lot of opc`s the pay is crap so porsche pay peanuts to their staff and they employ lots of monkeys ,most of have not been trained on the older cars and can not work on them and it`s left to people like me to work on anything older than 993`s .the work is not checked often by quality control in the opc`s and their are alot of bodgers around in these workshops .on 996 and boxsters a "good" technician will always rub down the corrosion between the wheel hub and the wheel and apply some copperslip or cu800 to make sure that the wheel will not seize on the hub again.porsche don`t use copperslip on the back of the brake pads we always use new damper plates or something by wurth called antisq
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coming
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Reported cause · Original poster
The grinding noise turned out to be coming from one of the rear inside discs where the pad had almost "bonded" onto the disc in the wet conditions after the car hadnt been used for 10 days or so.
discs(7.5k miles!) - problem sorted(skimmed) foc by dealer
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Reported cause · Original poster
Driving the C4S away from the showroom after having purchased it I got vibration through the steering wheel when peeling the speed off gently - turned out to be the discs(7.5k miles!) - problem sorted(skimmed) FOC by dealer.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
15 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
911uk: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261026T191851Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Hi guys n gals,
Just hoping some of you techies out there can cast light on two questions I have.
Firstly, BRAKES : Had a grinding noise recently from my rear brakes. This is not the first time it has happened. Driving the C4S away from the showroom after having purchased it I got vibration through the steering wheel when peeling the speed off gently - turned out to be the discs(7.5k miles!) - problem sorted(skimmed) FOC by dealer.
This time have had brakes checked out by friendly and trustworthy non-OPD garage near my home. After all the wheels were taken off I was asked to have a look. There was NO evidence of copper grease anywhere around the brakes or hub! Is this usual? I would have thought there would have been SOME evidence of grease! Apparantly a very light application of copper grease or such-like prevents rust and wheel seizing onto hub amongst other things.
The grinding noise turned out to be coming from one of the rear inside discs where the pad had almost "bonded" onto the disc in the wet conditions after the car hadnt been used for 10 days or so. (It sits outside under a breathable cover). Brakes have now been thoroughly cleaned and greased.
But Im interested to know if the non-greasing is standard practice... the rather abrupt man at AFN didnt seem to know what I meant when I questioned him about copper grease!
Secondly: RMS?? Read lots of threads about it. Glad Ive parted with £725 to extend my warranty! But what does RMS actually stand for? Sorry to appear so dull!!! My vehicle has done 15k...should I be concerned? Do Porsche check this out during an annual service? Should I ask them? Im about to drive down to Le Mans in it....could do without it going "pop" on a French Toll road!
Thanks folks....an excellent web-site,some fantastic info...and even great banter!
Love my Porsche....but have hated its recent devaluation!
Best wishes
Mike
'04 996 C4S
Migration info. Legacy thread was 56492
Mike. I believe the greasing around the hub to prevent the disc sticking is an optional thing but I'm sure I'll be corrected on this.
RMS (Rear Main Seal) is the main seal where the shaft comes out of the crank case and goes into the gearbox. It can fail at any time or not at all - it's just the luck of the draw although a high percentage of water cooled Porsches do need it replaced. I had mine replaced this week at 20,000 miles and yes, the OPC called me to say it had gone whilst it was having it's annual service. The usual signs are spots of oil on the garage floor central on the axis of the car and underneath the engine. Other signs are a deposit of oil on the join between the engine and box. It isn't a catasrophic failure so you don't need to worry about your trip to Le Mans. It is a constant threat though Porsche are on about the 5th version of the seal and the 3rd version of the tool to seat it properly so once it's been done, it is no guarentee that it wont go again. I think you just have to account for it in the running cost of the car but then so effectively is the extended warranty. They cost the same amount of money but the warranty also covers for the other potential problems of collapsed crank and split liners.
Migration info. Legacy thread was 56493
Seagull,
Thanks very much for that info on RMS failure. I'll definately be getting them to check that all's ok during my next service!
As for the brake grease....Im convinced that a little application is better than none at all - especially in our climate!
Any other comments from anyone on either subject very welcome.
thanks again
Mike
Migration info. Legacy thread was 56519
Mike, I'm not sure if I'm reading this right, are you saying you'd put copper grease on the brake disc to stop the pad bonding/sticking to disc due to rust???? If so, that would be a mad mad thing to do, you'll find out why the next time you try to use your brakes!
Porsche uses iron that rusts easier for the discs because of the extra friction you get during braking. If you leave the car for any length of time the discs will rust. That's why if you're not going to drive the car for sometime, always put it in gear rather than putting the hand brake on. Also remmember to dry the brakes by driving round the block after washing will help.
Migration info. Legacy thread was 56523
Hi Butzi, No ,no not at all! I do see sense in putting grease on the hub(where there's contact with the alloy wheel...and also where the wheel nuts/scews sit flush against the hub)...but DEFINATELY NOT between pad and disc!
Thanks though for the "top tip" regarding just leaving the car in gear and also drying the brakes out after washing etc... that's something I'll put into practice in future.
Cheers
Mike
Migration info. Legacy thread was 56527
Mike,
regarding the copper grease and brakes, a spot of copper grease applied to the back of the disc pad is known to prevent a brake squeal only.
A small amount of copper grease also on the wheel stud/bolt threads helps to prevent them seizing and snapping off on removal but do not apply any to tapered base of the bolt or nut.
As Butzi pointed out, always go round the block to dry your brakes off after washing the car - and it's another good excuse to drive it anyway
Migration info. Legacy thread was 56536
It has been common practice for years to smear the BACK of brake pads, anti-rattle springs, retaining pins, etc, with some type of anti-seize grease - Coppaslip or Wurth anti-seize are popular in the garage trade.
It also helps to smear the back of alloy wheels with the same stuff, to prevent them seizing onto the steel hubs. Some manufacturers don't do this from new - don't know why, perhaps it saves time and costs on the assembly line. But every mechanic that I know does it, probably knowing that it will make life easier for the next time he or another has to do a brake strip or wheel removal. It does seem to cut down on brake squeal but I think that is more a function of pad compounds than reducing backing plate friction.
Migration info. Legacy thread was 56580
not all the the techs who work at opc`s take pride in their work. at a lot of opc`s the pay is crap so porsche pay peanuts to their staff and they employ lots of monkeys ,most of have not been trained on the older cars and can not work on them and it`s left to people like me to work on anything older than 993`s .the work is not checked often by quality control in the opc`s and their are alot of bodgers around in these workshops .on 996 and boxsters a "good" technician will always rub down the corrosion between the wheel hub and the wheel and apply some copperslip or cu800 to make sure that the wheel will not seize on the hub again.porsche don`t use copperslip on the back of the brake pads we always use new damper plates or something by wurth called antisqueak spray which is like a adhesive.the rear main oil seal is the latest 997 seal which seems to be curing the problem at the moment.but another seal which always leaks is the intermediate shaft seal which sits below the rms on removal of the intermediate shaft flange there is a small o ring on the nose of the shaft which must be changed but most techs don`t .this o ring stops oil getting through the flange.
Migration info. Legacy thread was 56751
Sid, is the detoriation of the front radiators due to corrosion a manufacturing fault or wear and tear?
Car in question is a 22k miles 03 C4S with FPSH and in Fab condition, they rekon leaves and debry have caused the problem
Daz
Migration info. Legacy thread was 56760
That's interesting Sid. I had my RMS and intermediate shaft seal replaced last week (at 20,000 on a 3 y.o. targa) as a goodwill gesture from PGB, even though it's 11 1/2 months out of warranty - see the post "Big Up for Porsche GB" Do you know if you can request a technician by name to work on your car? I for one would take mine to WLOPC if they could guarentee that someone llike you was going to do the work rather than take the chance in a lottery of getting a 'monkey' working on it. I may not be in the fortunate position of having money as no object - I stretched myself to get the car I had always dreamed of, but made sure I kept enough aside to run it properly. If I'm paying £99 + VAT an hour, I think I deserve to have a competant technician work on it. If not, I'd rather take it to a specialist who is going to respect it in the same way I do.
Migration info. Legacy thread was 56762
One of the chaps on here had his replaced on a similar age and milage to mine cos they said it was crakced,
Am I right in thinking that the radiator has a steel core with fins welded on, so is it possible that one OPC's corrosion is another OPC's cracking?
Daz
P.S mine has the ext wtty
Migration info. Legacy thread was 56766
you can request that a certain tech works on your car as you are the customer and the opc must respect that .i get alot of my old customers from porsche staples corner coming to chiswick for me !!! they will have to come to porsche centre hatfield from next week
Migration info. Legacy thread was 56769
So you're playing hard to get then Sid? That will definitely raise Hatfield's stock from what I've heard. The run up there would certainly warm the oil up and make it easy to change.
Migration info. Legacy thread was 56779
