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YOUR RESEARCHWho has the lightest 996 in here?
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Install girodiscs front and rear
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Fiberglass ducktail, with electric fan installed ~12#
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Door cards were replaced, all carpet was removed and just small pieces were added so it didn't look fully stripped out, etc...
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Those who have driven a 2k-2,500 lb car understand it's a different feeling that can't be replaced with displacement in a heavier car.
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Suggestion
The builder/owner of the car wanted to make a statement that ensured the car stood out and was eye-catching, and rather than go the expense of doing a complete colour change, he elected for a look redolent of the factory 2.8 RSR's
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It worked fairly well the last time I went through all this with a MR2.
The 996.1 is the lightest watercooled 911 of all time at 1,320 kilos or 2,910 lbs. Has anyone taken a base C2 and shaved at least 300 lbs? Considering starting a new project...
I would like to see an actual '99 go across the scales and verify the factory advertised weight. I know my car with all its gt3 parts, race seats and light weight back lid still at 3250 with a 3/4 tank and its a mk1 chassis.
Thank you both. Would you share how you got there? Would love to know.
This is excellent thank you. This would be exactly my aim: around 2,500 lbs and livable on street. Basically a weekend canyon carver.
The problem is that prior to around 2015, Porsche published the weight of the lightest possible ROW configuration. So if a car sold in Europe with radio/AC/sunroof delete, that's the number they would publish even if that car was unavailable to order in NA. I'm not familiar enough with the 996 and don't know if stripped version sold in Europe but that was the case with the 964 and 993. That said, a bare bones MK1 C2 ought to be somewhere around that 2,900 lb number. Well optioned cars will quickly creep up to that 3,200 lb range.
I've measured the weight loss I've done and its around 100# so far, hoping to squeeze another ~#50 before doing some more expensive changes.
Stock Tail, to FB Duck Tail was ~15#, Swapping stock front Seats to Recaro SRs was a 60# reduction, Rear seat delete was another ~20# so thats apprx 95#. Doing a muffler delete would be another 40# but I dont want that noise so Im exploring something there. A few items in the frunk can shave some weight too... Once those "simple" items are done then its time for Carbon Fiber.
My goal is 2600# and I think I can get there with a street legal car that isnt loud / gutted / etc
Thanks for sharing. Seems like your goal is totally achievable. That's what makes sense to me too. I want a car for street and won't be doing things like AC delete or plexi glass but rear seat delete, sunroof delete, pole positions, Antigravity battery, exhaust, wheels, maybe CF doors and lids, airbag delete... all should be good for around 250 lbs before the last 50-100 which start getting a bit tougher.
Once I have the exhaust completed, there is one more change I want to do before taking it to a shop for a corner balance, alignment and dyno. I think you're on the right path and those pieces should get you to your goal
Gotta know what the real world numbers with the changes
Personally i think thats a pipe dream but i encourage u to try. Zbombs car is completely gutted down to a thinned harness, plastic panels, plexy glass with a lighter motor. He did add back in a cage and fire system, but u would have to if u take all the safety crash stuff out and he was 2750.
There's some confusion about where the weight claims come from that needs to be clarified beforehand. Mk1s are supposed to be 2,910 lbs. If that's not the case for the average base C2, then achieving the kind of weight loss we're talking about here becomes much harder. The project appeals to me if ~2,600 lbs can be achieved without chopping up the car. I appreciate everyone's input in that regard.
2750 was minimum weight in some of the old corvette imsa class. 2790 seems like a great fighting weigh, especially with over 500crank TQ & HP.
very impressive...
To be fair the previous owner added an aero kit and GT3 wheels which are portly.
GT3 Wing = 21.5lbs
CSR Ducktail = 4.3lbs
- 17.2
GT3 wheels + tires = 211.2lbs
OZ wheels + tires = 177lbs
- 34.2
Factory power seat = 60lbs *
Sparco Evo Carbon + BBi base - 29.6
- 30.4
Grand total = 81.8lbs
The factory power seat weight was an approximation and that�s just the driver�s seat. I did add a Teq cage and 350mm rotors so that�ll add maybe 20lbs to that number. I too will be doing a sunroof delete w/carbon roof, carbon hood. Good chance a CSR center exhaust will be added next year.
I get the attractiveness of dropping weight. I have done it myself over the years.
It was easy to shed the first 100lbs with GT3 seats, rear seat delete, FVD mufflers and cats, brembo big brake kit. But it cost alot of money ~$15K.
Next 50 lbs are tougher and I'm not willing to do it even though the cost is mainly time related. Delete radio, ac and heat, gut the interior carpet and bits, plastic rear window.
Then comes the big cost for the next 50 lbs which is carbon fiber frunk lid, roof, ducktail and paint. Probably another $8-10k proposition.
I respect and support those that go down this path. But unless you are building a full fledged race car, costs can easily get out of control.
Imho, a car with a good set of coilovers and sway bars set up properly coupled with good instruction and seat time over a number of years will make your car go faster than you ever imagined.
Thank you for this. I appreciate your advice and you're right. My first world problem is that I have three 911s, all of which are worth too much and as much as I try to be carefree with them about mileage/wear, the thought inevitably nags at me and screws with my joy. A high mile, light weight 996 C2 may or may not be a solution (prefer lightness to power). Still in the pondering stage. Maybe the pondering is what I need to finally have those nagging thoughts go away and enjoy my current cars. Three is already more than anyone needs and I certainly don't need one more.
Factory power seat 52lbs each
Tequipment cage stainless steel, so not light, I�d say an easy 6-8kg (13-15lbs) there
350mm OE one piece steel front rotors ? They weigh at least 8-12lbs each more than the OE one piece 318mm rotors
The builder/owner of the car wanted to make a statement that ensured the car stood out and was eye-catching, and rather than go the expense of doing a complete colour change, he elected for a look redolent of the factory 2.8 RSR's
Ducktail is the same colour as the rest of the car
@2mAn
can you help shed some light since you�ve done it�it seems stock seats are ~60lbs, and adjustable seats like the CS and SRs are about 33lbs�then maybe aluminum side mount and slider another 10lbs? Was your seat ready to mount in the car almost 45lbs? This is on my list of things to do�but every time I research it�the numbers don�t seem to work�and I wasn�t quite ready to just live in a bucket seat.
Anything can be accomplished on your 996 for the right amount of money. The question is how much do you want to spend to go faster and how do you want to spend it. No right or wrong answer. Just the outlay of money and many mistakes that will cost you more money as you make them.
Best advice I can give is to take your time and make sure that the changes you make to your car and the money you spend on them will be something you will be happy about in 5 or 10 years.
Weight savings for me is not firstly about getting faster, it’s about minimizing the strain on the system. Brakes, tires, suspension components, gearbox, the motor pushing it… all these items individually benefit by having less weight to contend with.
The optimum outcome being it’s easier to both take care of the equipment AND go faster. Reducing the cost of consumables and making for a more reliable platform.
Interesting topic. I just weighed my 2001 C2 Manual Aero at the local quarry. Apparently, the scale has 20 lbs error. Meaning, if 3080 pound or over, it rounds up. Could be wrong, but thats what they said. I will prob weigh it again soon at the local transfer station to see if that is more accurate.
Basic specs: 18 inch E88s, Michelin 4s 245s/295s, rear seat deleted, sunroof, catless pipe with fister mufflers, H&R RSS coil overs, momo wheel, GT3 oem buckets, GT3 console delete, fire extinguisher, RSS rear upper adjustable dog bones, phenix adjustable tow links, lighter AGM battery, and RSS half cage. Weighed with half a tank of fuel. Still has the spare tire/tools/etc in the front. Some maps and stuff in the door pockets. Weighed basically as I typically drive it.
Yeah, we can really get in the weeds with actual part comparisons for weight savings of oem vs aftermarket.
GT3 seats or equivalent, rear seat delete and exhaust are your low hanging fruit. Floating hat brake systems may give you a little as well. Dont know what the oem suspension weighs vs a set or Ohlins RT, Bilstein PSS9s or 10s, JRZs etc and if there are savings. Nor do I know how much you can save with aftermarket arms and suspension components.
But you have to add in for roll cage, deep sump with extra oil, wider wheels etc.
If I was racing the car I would worry about it. If I am just going to DE, which is what I do, then I focus on the low hanging fruit with an emphasis on set-up, handling, braking and safety with a 3,000 lb car.
But everyone has different goals and objectives, which is what makes Rennlist alot of fun to pontificate the options. You never know.
QFT
Whats that thing that Colin Chapman said about weight?...
Happy to share. I needed a reclining seat as I have a child seat in the back for my spawn. She loves going for drives and taking her with me to C&C events was the main reason I chose to sell my Alfa Romeo Giulia Super in favor of the 911. So that ruled out GT3 seats.
For reference, my car is a 4/98 nearly no option car other than 408s, but I still plan to get some lightweight OZs eventually.
These weights about as accurate as I care to be. It worked fairly well the last time I went through all this with a MR2. I was about 10# off the actual weight when I took it in for corner balancing years ago, so I continue to use it for my purposes. Im just one idiot having fun in his garage...
Stock seat. ~66#
This is with the BK floor mounts and Recaro sliders installed. ~37#
Rear Seats, wrapped up to be stored forever LOL ~23#
Stock decklid, fan removed ~24#
Fiberglass ducktail, with electric fan installed ~12#
The wisdom in this can't be overstated. It's easy to hack up a car and some things can't be reversed. Carpenter's rule applies here in spades: measure twice, cut once.
Increasing power through weight reduction works in NA Porsches because regardless of generation, there is little low hanging fruit and increases are usually small and expensive. Your point is equally important. My primary reasons are just feel. There is in fact a replacement for displacement and it's weight reduction. Those who have driven a 2k-2,500 lb car understand it's a different feeling that can't be replaced with displacement in a heavier car.
Thank you for this. It seems the 2,910 lb weight number is not easily (or at all) attainable in a stock US-spec'd car. Expected but disappointing nonetheless.
Agreed. For me, interior, exhaust, battery, too removal, and unsprung weight (wheels, tires, brakes, suspension) are the first stage. Anything after that needs to be well thought out and will either be expensive or not easily reversible.
Great info. So many numbers floating around but more often than not, we don't know were they come from. Thank you.
If better performance is the objective I would heartily recommend going after unsprung weight reduction. You'll get a lot more bang for the buck there. Not saying that you shouldn't remove rear seats etc., just that when it comes time to spend money, spend it at the wheels/tires/brakes first.
Agreed, however it is very easy (and cheap ) to drink a beer, head to the garage, and remove your rear seats. Furthermore it's hard to hurt yourself after drinking them beers. I have kept mine for years in case I was going to take our family of four for an outing. Oddly enough that has rarely happened. Now my kids are gigantic and they have years to go before they stop growing. I'd say that our odds of taking the family in the 911 are not so good.
Yesterday I got all hopped up and decided to do something and that something was to remove the backs of the seats. Man those things are heavy. I might keep the cushions since they weigh almost nothing and give a mildly finished look.
Just took my car for a drive. Definitely faster. I recommend it.
Took out my rear seats over 15 years ago when the kids didn't fit in the back seat anymore. Packed them away and never looked at them again until a year ago when I sold them. Just like I sold my oem seats. Don't miss any of them, not to mention my car is alot lighter.
2470 wet, half tank of gas. Full cage and no carbon other than roof and decklid. It’s even a gt3/c4 tub. 997 all aluminum front end was about 60lbs savings - 996 hoods are stupid heavy.
Sadly I now need to put 200lbs back in the car, starting with dash/gauges and probably ending with a small adult equivalent lead passenger.
Hmmmm that�s also a good point. I have Fisters, Agency Power headers and a no name 200 Cell X pipe. Either way I know Jason�s is the lightest that has posted.
The two side mufflers + cats are ~68lbs (~21lb per muffler, ~13lb per cat). Not sure about the mounting brackets but they are substantial.
edit: I wish there was an aftermarket 996 aluminum hood with factory fitment
@mehoff
X2 Inquiring minds want to know! ...
I just found a cheap set of 997 Fenders so help me waste some money LOL
PS Im relatively local and would love to pick your brain and stare at your car.
Here's a way to remove 10 lbs at a cost of
negative
$100:
AGM batteries typically weigh around 7 lbs more than the same size wet cell battery (comparing the Interstate H6 AGM vs Interstate's conventional battery for example), and the AGM costs about $100 more. The 996 accepts H6, H7, and H8 batteries, each successively wider. If you have an H7 AGM battery and switch to an H6 conventional battery, it should save you around 10lbs (7 lbs from AGM to conventional) and another 3 lbs (wild guess since I could not find weights for H6 vs H7) for the narrower battery.
.
I know we are all pressed for time, but we have an opportunity to summarize the oem weights and aftermarket weights of various components to provide a road map for weight savings here on this thread. It's really up to each rennlister to determine what they identify as important to them.
I don't yet own a 996 and don't yet know if I will. However,
@J.Tan
in the 997 sub has done a phenomenal job of documenting his 350+ lb loss. I'll get the thread oriented in that direction and leave it to you 996 owners to build it up.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...treet-car.html
Thanks Bronto.
Quite a bit of savings w/ replacing the oem cats and mufflers. I am looking for my FVD 200 cell cat and muffler weights to post. Don't know if there are any savings in aftermarket headers.
5lbs here and 10lbs there all add up.
Well the 996 GT3 is heavier than the early production 996 C2 so yea your car with all its GT3 parts will be heavier too 🤷♂️. From talking to quite a bit of early 996 owners I'm pretty certain it's definitely not all all the 99 cars either that will come near that 2900lbs stock weight as they're all heavier than that. Beyond the obvious sun roof no roof type options theres definitely some extra weight distributed through the majority of the cars somewhere. My car was ordered built late 97 completed build date / Jan 1998. It's a sunroof car, throttle cable no traction control, no button, no obc , and a getrag g96.00 with mechanical LS rear diff. 40/60 and m30 suspension, 408 wheels. Basic bose stero, cruise control, driver seat was 8 way power with memory passenger seat was power but I think it has less movements. This car weighted with fluids right at 2850lbs , and now Weighs 2440lbs wet no driver. Weighed last month cat scale/ ticket. IG and youtube is Garage19innovations little short clips /videos/,ticket on there and my weight loss list, with weights/build,parts are listed in video descriptions. Cars not quite done, never had a specific weight goal but have a digital scale in the garage and weighted and logged everything going on and off. Cars has all records receipts since new so I have done the same. Im Not exactly sure where the extra weight falls off or adds to these early 99 cars or whats the unobvious difference in weight when they left the factory is. They are pretty unique to begin with a 996 for sure but built alongside the 993 the same LSA rear end, 100% Annalog was possible on the early cars such as mine. No egas, no pasm, no tc, no computer driver aids period on at least some. The Transition period put out some uniquely optioned/optionless 996 911s so the weights vary. One thing I have noticed which doesn't exactly explain anything but my door Tag/build date (black one) has a GVWR a few hundred lbs lighter than the other 99 carrera GVWR tags I have seen. Obviously not the curb weight but makes sense as they all said they were 3000 to 3200lb cars when they weighed them. Might be a quick indicator 🤷♂️🤘🏁
3309lbs with 3/4 tank, half cage, frunk full of crap/tools/extinguisher etc, full leather interior but euro buckets, heavy Milltek exhaust, Forgelines but steel disc swap...street car status
I read these off of my phone and the information in long form is all on my computer in an excel sheet, that's not compatible with whatever I have on my phone the short version was already posted on those post. I have a hard enough time navigating and using this site on my phone and replying to the right comments in the right spots as it is. Beyond that anything I have ever shared about this car how or why I did something has been met with more critics and argumentive replies than anything else so I have learned not to spend to much of my time trying to share things with other people who probably won't like or understand what you did or why you did it to begin with. I love cars people these days not much .
You'd need a good amount of Carbon Fiber to shed that much weight... I watched the stories, highlights and looked through the pics. Didnt see anything detailing weight loss stuff
I just wasted an hour of my life replying with info only to hit post, told to log in again and look at a blank reply form. I'll do it again later tonight from my computer.
I just looked myself and i couldn't even see the details using the youtube app, viewed on the site not the app they're there. I just copied and pasted the mods short form list I have in the descriptions below. If it helps someone awesome, there's alot of people asking or arguing about weight but not many people actually taking the time to see for themselves. Floor scales are very inexpensive just keep one in the garage if you're building a car with a goal in mind log it as you go.I can tell you for certain there is not much info on the web about actual weigh twith actual scales,numbers etc almost none, but there are plenty of comments and conversations about what people say is this and that with nothing to support thier knowledge or opinions. I know from my own experience the weights of most items i removed from my car were lbs different from what i had found for weights on forums and post. For example my seats, with all thier electronics and rails were significantly heaver than the few post i found that said anywhere from 42 to 68lbs . I realize there were different seats available throughout the 996 years, even different seats in the same year but apparently others dont realize this I dont know. My seats,rails , exhaust system all modified and built by me were my largest savings. Point being there is no one thing you're going to save massive amounts of weight on its a combination of changes and small savings that will make a big difference or possibly not. The only way you're going to know that is to do it to your car and figure out the process of what you want, dont,can live without, can change or modify and what you end up with still isn't going to be the blueprint for all 996s just one cars blue print your car. I also reiterate my initial point if anyone can shed some light on the early cars as they're the ones being labeled by Porsche, publications as cars under 2900lbs from the factory. That's not every my99 car, it's not all 1999 US cars. It's the early Production c2 manual cars that were 2900lbs or less if optioned with 408 wheels, and less mechanical/electrical luxury options. My question is the significance of the GVWR tag as I have found mines less than than the other 1999 and newer c2s if anyone knows why the axle rating/car GVWR are lower on my car I'm sure that's why my car weighted under 2900lbs to start with vs the 3100lb and Higher weight cars that others who have weighted thier own car have found. Sure there's a correlation. The largest weight loss I have seen on a 996 with details,weights, etc was over 800lbs the car weighed 23xxlbs. Research the 996 CSR by RPM T they sell or sold modification packages for your 996 and had listed weight reduction information, specs, details for cars under and above 2500lbs depending on your starting 996 and the package you purchased but they had details on all of them. Below is short list copy paste on my car, which is not a track car its a road legal fun car I wanted an interior, I only removed 400lbs.
You Tube
986 Front bumper, 996.2 Cab rear bumper. Rear 19x10 295 30 1919x8.5 235 35 19 Heads skimmed to even out tolerance spec valve job Bowl Port work 3in BORE THROTTLE BODY MATCHED PLENUM RENNLINE PERFORMANCE COILPACKACKSNGK RUTHENIUM HX PLUGSGRAMS PERFORMANCE FUEL INJECTORSGRAMS INLINE FILTERRACETRONIX TWIN FUEL PUMPLIGHTER HARMONICALLY DAMPENED LIGHT WEIGHT UNDERDRIVE& LW PULLEYSAASCO LIGHT WEIGHT FLYWHEEL997 3.8S MANIFOLDSCUSTOM DESIGNED FULL 1 PIECE EXHAUST 180 OUT MERGE K&N DROP IN FILTER MODIFIED AIRBOXRESONATOR REMOVED, SEALED THERMO INSULATEDECU CHIP REMOVED FLASH / TUNED 997 SSK WITH THREADED ROD CONVERSION WEIGHTED KNOBCOILOVERS 36 DAMPENING SETTINGS FRONT AND REAR SEPARATE HEIGHT AND PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT ADJUSTABKE DROP LINKS ANTI ROLL BAR, FRONT SWAY BAR FRONT STRUT BRACE REAR ADJUSTABLE CONTROL ARMS ADJUSTABLE CAMBER / TOE Stock parts removed/lightened Jack -2.8lbsToolroll -1.7lbsFront Impact bar -6.8lbsRear impact bar -8.3lbsSpace saver wheel -24.96CD changer -4.8lbsFloor mats -5.7lbsFront M030 ARB -6.3lbsCustom Headlights -5.4lbsLed Taillights replacement -4.2lbsCustom Media/center - 1.5lbs Rear seats/ belts - 2.3lbsParts removed/replaced (weight reduced by) 93.3lbs Total Stage 2 Custom 1 piece Exhaust - 17.5lbs (80.2lb reduction)Lightweight Li battery -4.4lbs (34.6lbs reduction) LWFW and Stage 2 clutch 13lb reductionMOMO steering wheel -3.5lbsCoilovers (Front 10.5lbs each rear 9.4lbs each) -9.7lb reductionSEATS /BRACKETS -27.11 each = -54.22lbs ( 101.78lb reduction)CRFP Ducktail -7lbs (42.8lb reduction)wheels with tires- 19x10 295/30/19 48.6lbs x2 19x8.5 245/35/19 46.4lbs x2 = 198lbs Total 0EM 225/40ZR18 265/35ZR18 7.5x18 10x18 220lbs Total (22lbs reduction )Titanium wheels bolts -2.4lb reduction Complete suspension (14 arms) front/rear drop link redesign upgrades - 3.7lb reduction Stage 2 Total weight removed/saved: 313.68lbsTotal weight removed so far 406.98lbsSep 11 2023 Cars physical wet weight (no driver) 2440lbs
I have no idea what your view looks like but my view cuts off post right side sorry I tried no idea why this and only this site gives me so much trouble or what I'm doing wrong.
Just read an article about removing the sunroof and replacing it with a carbon skin, removed about 70lbs. I�d have to see 2440lbs with my own eyes to believe it with full steel fenders, full doors and almost a full interior.
Not calling anyone a liar but it doesn�t seem possible without removing full panels.
From the CLR thread :
�
Sunroof assembly 13.4kg (4.9kg sunroof panel, 5.0kg frame, 3.5kg inner cover, brackets etc)�
and
�CLR Carbon roof (sunroof delete) -18.1kg�
and
What I imagine was the original steel roof panel. : �Roof skin 7.5kg�
Looks more like a 40lb loss.
To those interested, this is a new link to the CLR project thread, as the 911uk forum has recently moved to new forum software and the old link I posted no longer works :
https://911uk.com/threads/clr-projec...f-250kg.79527/
Even 40lbs sounds reasonable and this is my reference for the 70lbs number. Looking at the article, he used the word *should* so the measured weight you quoted seemed to be realistic.
https://jalopnik.com/i-ordered-a-car...rbo-1850931197
Powderhound, De Jeeper and other RL peeps have done a ton (pun intentional) of weight shaving projects on the 996 over the years. 911uk folks have been kicking around the CLR can, as well. With sunroof delete, hood, seats and battery considered, the weight savings is just under a best-case total of 170 lbs. Doors would require a cage, so that savings is negated for practicality. If you already have Apex or stock 5-spokes, they’re already pretty light. Shave a few lbs from frunk spare and exhaust/deck lid and you’d be reasonably close to 210 lb total reduction and still be full daily driver.
This thread is starting the next RL 996 trend of finding a local weigh station and measuring the weight of your car. What the hell, I'm looking for one now.
I think with certain carbon doors...you can keep your side airbags and have a crashbar in it...and probably drop another 40lbs...plus the 5mph bumpers....and then carbon hood and decklid...lighter exhaust...aftermarket carbon rotors and OZ Alg's...i think it's reasonable to think you could get over 300 hundo shaved....now how much of your wallet's been stripped is another convo.
and if you topped it off with a 350whp NA K24 electric P/S and waterpump....you'd probably closer to 2500 with full interior and 50/50 distro
FVD sells carbon doors with crash bars and made for glass windows at about $3k each side and weigh 5.3kg each.
https://www.fvd.net/us-en/KEV5311190...eft-53-kg.html
These are on my dream list... I'd love to buy them this year, but I think I will wait until next year. Going after some of the easier stuff to see if I can get close to 2600 before the doors.
Im talking with some folks about installing some stuff on mine and doing a corner balance. That will be a nice base-line of where Im at now and I can compare where I think I should be. I think I have an easy 100# before I get into the expensive 150# loss... should probably lose the 20# of my own ballast haha
I�d do some further due diligence on the weights quoted for these doors.
Rose Passion quotes their weight @ 17.1kgs each, whilst FVD says their doors save 22kg PER door.
Maths wasn�t by any means my strongest subject at school, but losing 22kg from a 17kg door is a mightily impressive feat by anyone�s standards...
Possibly they mean using their doors results in 11kg weight loss from each door and thus a 22kg weight loss across both doors ? ...
My 03 996 weights 2615 pounds with one gallon of gas in the tank. It's built to GTB1 club race specs, so getting right on the 2800 pound minimum weight (car and driver) for the class was the objective. It does have a carbon hood, but that's the only lightweight panel. The rest was just down to a close look at every single component and asking, " is this mission critical, or not". The 2615 includes a radio, cool suit system, AIM dash and a few other Nic knacks. Every successive pound is a greater and greater percentage of what's left, and gets harder and harder to get. Be patient.
Race prepped cars kind of take away from the point of the thread IMO. They show what's possible, but they have added weight such as rollcages as well. Muddies the waters if you will.
I was able to drop over 100# by:
Remove rear seats
Fabspeed mullfers
OZ Wheels
remove CD changer
Remove Jack & Spare
install MOMO steering wheel
install Odyssey PG925T
Remove subwoofer
carbon fiber rear deck/wing
I ended up adding adding a lot back by:
Big brake kit (Still contemplating Girodisc rotors to save some weight)
rollbar
Here's the best way to remove unnecessary weight, replace your spare tire & jack with the GT3/GT2 trunk organizer:
It does add some weight for the foam, lid, air compressor & fix-a-flat. There is also space for extra tools for long drives. I only carry this much when driving a BUNCH of miles.
I've actually added back some weight since my 4.0 build.
I don't need the light weight as much now.
Do you happen to have the PN handy? I can find it but I�m also lazy. *Never mind found it*. Thanks for posting this because I never knew it existed until now.
I got mine second hand, but here's where you can buy new:
Organizer:
https://www.suncoastparts.com/produc...96GT3FOAM.html
Cover:
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/SKU996GTFC.html
"Fix-a-flat" (I purchased this new)
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/4L0012619Bx.html
Compressor: (Wow, see if you can pick up a used one like I did, this is EXPENSIVE!)
https://www.suncoastparts.com/produc...OMPRESSOR.html
First Aid Kit:
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/PKFIRSTAID.html
The rest of the tools can come from your tool roll.
I posted about it way back when in the "What did you do today" thread.
It fits the C2 just fine.
That is correct.
The previous owner of mine added a strip of carpet to the edge of the front of the foam.
It looks similar to a strip of the soft side of Velcro.
Mamas you can see in my picture, it looks pretty good.
I ordered them through Suncoast and the review for the carpet states what you mentioned, it�s about .5� smaller. I get free shipping in FL but the price was 220.00 before tax on both the carpet and foam organizer. Oh and it�s a SOP at the moment.
I took some more pictures.
Hopefully they will better show the carpet and fit.
WOW, what a dirty frunk! Does this guy ever clean/vacuum his car?
Special order First Aid Kit velcro sticker. (Klebeschild 996.701.170.00 )
My spare, because 2 is 1, 1 is none:
This photo shows the carpet added to the left and front of the foam:
YAFP
Noch einmal:
das letzte:
I DID vacuum...inside...just a week or so ago.
The frunk has been neglected.
I have added "vacuum the frunk" to my to-do list.
I promise, I'll get to it in the next 6 months or so.
3050 lbs with a full tank of gas (~100 lbs) according to the scale at my local transfer station today. They say the scale is accurate to within 20lbs. That's with full Mk1 aerokit, full leather interior, retaining all carpets and airbags, no cage, 3rd radiator (all CSF), Feal coilovers, LN 2qt deep sump, E88s, GT3 euro buckets, sunroof delete, rear wiper delete, bumperette delete, center console delete, rear seat/belt delete, and radio "delete" (i.e. headless system still using OEM amp).
My 996tt with RWD front diff removed, full tank, Euro Buckets, Cage and SpeedTech Exhaust came in at 3,355...Going to be a hell of a lot lighter now :P
Have to weigh the GT3, IIRC Ray said it was 3100lbs with full fuel and him in it (175lbs).
I was at 2754 dry on my 996.1 (MY98):
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post17357675
My 6GT3 is 2941 with an unknown amount of gas (catless x pipe and muffler bypass, euro bucket seats, antigravity battery and BBS RE795 mag wheels)
As another point of reference, my 04/98 996 with stock interior, aftermarket (probably) aerokit, coilovers and TE37 wheels weighed 2996lbs when I had it corner balanced.
Here's an interesting data point on factory weight specs
: Difference between factory spec and real-world weigh in: 0.2 KG (aka 7 ounces)
996 GT3 weight spec from the factory
:
https://www.excellence-mag.com/resources/specs/82
(shows 3043 lbs = 1380.2 kg)
Real-world weigh-in of 996 GT3:
(has factory rollcage (rear 1/2 installed) and about 1/2 tank of full according to the owner,
came in at 1380kg
)
It started with a corner balance weight and then I meticulously weighed everything that come off or was put on. I've been doing that with bicycles for the last 12 years down to the gram so I've gotten pretty good at keeping my weight spreadsheets in line with actual 🙂
Door cards were replaced, all carpet was removed and just small pieces were added so it didn't look fully stripped out, etc...
Exactly what I plan to do. This was more of a baseline, albeit much higher starting point than I expected. I will be under 3k soon and then the fun begins
These wheels really look great on these cars. I wasn't too sure about it when I bought them, but I'm really happy with how it turned out. Thanks for your kind words :-)
I recently installed Girodiscs front and rear.
340mm rotors vs 317mm stock
2 pounds lighter than stock in front
11.2 pounds lighter than 350mm Renegade BBK.
Girodiscs are 10 pounds lighter than stock in rear.
325mm rotors vs 298mm stock
that�s about the same math I was looking at when I was contemplating ceramic rotor alternatives. The rears seem worth it, but thought about doing aluminum hat and same rotor size (317) on the front to drop more than just 2 pounds
I knew I added a bunch of weight when I went with the Renegade BBK since I went with the cheapest rotors possible.
I'm very happy with almost as large of rotors and over 11 pounds lighter.
But my Pagid 317mm rotors were not much heavier at just 217mm.
I think it's worth it, but money is a small issue with me and my car.
I like value, but I'll spend a lot more to get "the best."
If you want to save some money, look at Rennline 2-piece rotors..
They should be lighter and cheaper, but smaller.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.