How do I repair a broken off caliper bleed nipple?

Hello All, While bleeding the brakes on my new-to-me ' 06 Cayman S , the right-outer nipple broke off in my hand. It broke off flush with the top of the caliper, and did not come out. Not sure if it was damaged before, cracked, etc.. Anyway, now I have the threaded stub in the caliper to remove. Does anyone have similar experience like this and successfully removed it? I can assume to try an Easy-Out first, since it already has the hole in it. Going to the next step... has anyone had to drill and tap the old one out? From the design of the bleed screw, it appears like if I carefully drill it with increasingly larger drills, that the threads SHOULD eventually fall out (if they are not frozen in), since the nipple is not threaded all the way to the end. Lastly... are there specialized caliper repair facilities that you may be familiar with? I've seen a few online, but not familiar with them. As a last resort I can remove the caliper and send it to them for repair. Thanks much for any constructive suggestions, Steve

Best case scenario is getting the bleeder screw out, I’m not lucky with easy outs, but it seems in a case like this it might be exactly right and it should work well. Tapping the caliper for a new screw might be more tricky than it sounds, if it doesn’t come out I’d be ordering a new unit, just my two cents.

They make left hand drill bits. I’d use those. The heat may help. Ez outs work but you have to get the hole size right. in a pinch you might get away with cracking the hose loose and holding the caliper hose fitting at the very top to get the bubbles out.

If I were in your shoes, I'd do everything possible to avoid drilling the caliper. They are expensive, and a re-thread had better be perfect. The bleeders are typically soft metal. I'd try one of these as Ric suggests (or similar) Amazon.com: 11Pcs Damaged Screw Extractor Kit, Bolt Stud Removal Tool Set, High Speed Steel Screw Remover for Broken Stripped Stuck Screws with Storage Case for Home Auto Repair : Industrial & Scientific Buy 11Pcs Damaged Screw Extractor Kit, Bolt Stud Removal Tool Set, High Speed Steel Screw Remover for Broken Stripped Stuck Screws with Storage Case for Home Auto Repair: Extractors - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases www.amazon.com I'm talking about the left had threaded part on the top of the photo. As you turn it left it digs into the bleeder stub and turns it left (and out) as well. It will either work really easily or not at all.

Agree with Wizco, you would need a special drill press in any attempt to drill the caliper and even then it could easily end up in failure. I saw better mechanics than I try it as bleeders seized in NE salt baths and it never worked.

I had success removing a stripped oil drain plug with an extractor bit (like Wilco posted above). Even with that the plug left many of its threads behind in the oil pan. I removed them carefully with a sharp metal pick. I would try an extractor before drilling.

Maybe take it to a shop instead of spending money for something you'll hopefully never need again?

I've been through this exact scenario (a WRX Sti with mono-bloc Brembos ). I tried an 'easy-out' extractor but the extractor was on the point of snapping (based on my own experience) so I gave up, rather than make the situation worse. I removed the caliper (and pads) and took it to a local shop. He welded a series of washers (I think TIG welder) to the bleeder and finally a nut. This damaged the caliper paint. This took several attempts as the weld broke twice when applying torque to the nut. On the third attempt the bleeder came out. Here are some pics - including a new genuine bleeder. I subsequently replaced all the bleeders with stainless steel bleeders with a touch of anti-seize on the threads and the point at the bottom of the bleeder. Good Luck.

I would also try the extractor first, carefully. If that doesn't work then honestly I would purchase a used caliper which a quick search found selling around $150-300. I would then re-sell the damaged caliper to recoup as much as possible because you know someone will buy it thinking it's an easy fix, but let them take the risk.

If it was me I’d start with the LH drills, maybe get lucky, but being prepared move to the appropriately sized easy out. The method that I’ve the most success with is to rapidly tap on the easy out with a lightweight hammer while simultaneously turning it with my box end wrench. Seems to help it maintain purchase inside the hole. If you are able to get it out, then flush with isopropyl and compressed air and check for leaks. If it doesn’t come out, then I agree with the above, I am just going to replace it.

Looks like you have enough space to use a Dremel with a fiberglass cutoff disk to cut a groove across the bleeder deep enough to use a big *** screwdriver to twist bleeder out. I have a big screwdriver with a hex attachment forged into it so you can use a combo wrench for torque. Harbor Freight has a set of 7 drivers the larger of which has one with the hex end. Brand is 'Doyle', $23. I have used this method a few times for other breaks when I was restoring cars. Worked for me. Make sure the swarf from the cutting doesn't get into anything. You might want to drip a little penetrant into the threads and let it sit overnight. Before starting lightly tap the bleeder with a hammer to maybe break the bond it has. Also turn the bleeder to the right a little, it may help to dislodge it, before cranking it to the left for removal. Hope this helps! Good luck

Here's the link for the drivers: https://www.harborfreight.com/cushion-grip-screwdriver-set-7-piece-56914.html

Sorry I thought the picture was your caliper. In my experience small E-Z outs will break when removing large threaded bolts/bleeders etc.. If you have time, drill the hole larger so it will fit a larger E-Z out. Don't go too deep for obvious reasons. Drip a very small amount of penetrant into the threads and let sit overnight. Make sure you buy a quality E-Z out, the cheap ones break. Lightly tap the E-Z into the bleeder to seat it then twist slowly. Good luck

If you try the E-Zout route a few thoughts. There should be info with the E-Zout set specifying what E-Zout to use for a given thread size along with what drill size. Use the LH drills. The correct hole size is a lot larger than you might think. Measure the allowable depth to drill from one of the other bleed holes on a different caliper. The conical end on the bleed screw and in the caliper is the valve seat. Don't want to damage it. You may need to grind the end off of the E-Zout to get a proper bite with the available depth. The best penetrating oil I've found is Kano Labs Kroil . Good luck. And no, I haven't tried this on a bleed screw.

x2 for Kroil . Use it almost daily at work! I love the smell hahaha. Also thank you for mentioning LIGHT tapping with hammer. I said lightweight hammer and that’s the point I’m trying to make. Just enough to help it continue to bite without turning itself out.

I realize this comment is after the fact, but I learned a trick early in my auto tech career. It might sound counter intuitive, but you should initially use some penetrating oil on the bleeder, then tighten the bleeder. When I say "tighten", I mean move it 1/2 a millimeter, then attempt to loosen it. This frequently helps break the bleed/caliper "fusion". This technique works with lots of fasteners, not just caliper bleeders.

The calipers are aluminum, right? The other thing that helps with steel into aluminum is HEAT. Get a pinpoint propane torch or similar and get the bleeder nice and hot, then blast it with some freeze spray and cool it down. Do this 2-3 times. The differential expansion of the steel and aluminum helps break any corrosion free. I've had old, rusty, scary steel studs come right out of an aluminum head with this method. If you can access an induction heater that's even better, but in a pinch a small torch will work.

If you ever get a tight bleed screw again I use a drill with torque settings on it to undo it. I also have an induction heater, which for a couple of hundred dollars is a lifesaver on these older cars, especially Porsches where they love to mix alu and steel, drop links etc. But the drill means it keeps rattling it without every putting enough torque on it to snap it. Start at 1 and turn it up slowly till it comes loose. It can take a minute or so, but they do come in the end. If not, call a few local shops and ask them, my Porsche specialist has an old boy that comes and removes them, he charges £60 for the first one and £30 after that. If it is the inside nipple I wouldn't worry too much, it holds about 10ml of fluid. If it is already got air in, remove the calliper, bleed it again off the carrier and turn it slowly, think where the bubble is, you can work it out of the calliper with just one bleed screw no problem. That will get you going till you can get it sorted or a used one comes up cheap. Good luck!

One other thing to add. The old boy who comes out will charge double if you have already tried to get it out with an eezi-out or similar. His quick tool requires the whole thing to be there.