coolant reservoir reinforced with high heat spray

Anyone ever tried spraying the external surface of the plastic coolant reservoir with something like the Rust-Oelum automative high heat spray paint (clear) to strengthen the integrity and hopefully avoid cracking/leaks? This way we can avoid having to buy the expensive genuine Porsche reservoir. Just a thought

I�m in the process of making an aluminum tank�but work has been interfering with my fab time 😂 One made of aluminum would be the last one you�d buy and you�d not have to worry about it cracking down the road and it wouldn�t take nearly dropping the engine to remove it if for whatever reason you needed to. I�m also trying to find a suitable pressure relief valve like the one on the current tank�you can buy the valve for like $80, I�m just unsure at how good the generic ones work.

I started on that same journey a while ago. The idea of an aluminum tank registered with me as I experimented with various shapes, using a box and pan break seemed to be my method. At one point, as an experiment, I coated an old red rubber hot water bottle with release material so fiberglass resin wouldn't stick to the rubber, inflated it, wrapped some layers of resin-fiberglass, and after hardening released the air after it cured......it holds hot liquid and there were no seams. I just thought that using a two-piece mold, using fiberglass, and inserting compressed air rather than heli-arcing aluminum......I am not an expert on old would be easier...as I could always bond on a fiberglass neck and re-use other parts from the old tank. At least with fiberglass, I could visually see if the volume was low. However, at this point in time, I am contemplating an engine build and have relegated the idea to the back burner. This is an issue that galls me to no end having replaced mine and a friend's which became a bigger effort of futility as his rubber hoses were Kuput! I sincerely hope you are successful with your concept

It's been something I'm trying to get done in my spare time. The fluid level could bea easy with a sight level welded on like: Just haven't done the research to see how much pressure some of those kinds of fitting can take. I know most coolant systems peak in the pressure range of 16-18psi because the radiators I build are pressure tested at 24psi.

Quotes source post: 19131392

keep us updated! for now i want to find a way to strengthen OER replacements.

Back to my question...a heat spray paint like RustOelum. In my mind protecting external surface from engine heat may lessen risk of cracking. Prepping the surface with light sanding should help improve the adhesion of the paint. Has anyone had success with use of Dr911's tanks ? Rep said they haven't had any complaints. It is not clear who manufactures them.

I would consider something like this as a more effective barrier - https://www.designengineering.com/heat-screen-12-x-24/ DEI has a lot of stuff I think would do the job you're looking for better than a canned solution.

Given the size of the tank, there aren't too many places left to place the tank, to begin with, but certainly having it stuffed in that corner of the hot engine compartment doesn't help. I am unsure if the tank's problem is generated just by outside temps, but rather the heat expansion and contraction of the heat and cooling cycle.

Quotes source post: 19132774

Imo, polyethylene/polypropylene the materiel coolant reservoirs are made from, do not adhere well to anything other than solvents, that actually melt the plastic. so solvent welding or ultrasonic welding are the only ways to work with hdpp/ldpp. all other methods like super glue, etc, are short lasted waste of time for an expanding/contracting coolant pp tank. Any spray paint or spray glue, etc, to the outside of resi, will do nothing for tank strength, longevity,,, imo The main problem with the tanks comes from the inside pressure of hot coolant, not the engine bay heat. Continued heat cycles pressurizes the tank essentially blowing it up slightly stretching the tank. after hundreds of these heat pressure cycles, the tank/seams start to fail/seep/leak on many of our old tanks. I've read the newer tanks are made from a newer more durable pp compound and are thicker/heavier, all to combat the leaky tank/seams problem. not 100% sure of this claim so do your own due diligence....

Quotes source post: 19132932

great idea so i'll try this instead. I understand that expansion and contraction a more significant contributors to instability of the plastic.

Quotes source post: 19133023

Agreed... coolant can hit 210F, the engine bay should normally be well below that because we have a fan whose sole job is to cool the engine bay. Even in front-engined cars with cooler engine bays the expansion tanks blow up (hellooooooo BMW), it's 100% the coolant temp and pressure.