What to change on a 110k 3.4 Engine while doing the clutch

Hello people! As my car approaches 28 years of life in January, and the miles are aboout 110k, I wonder what I shall change on the engine without being overly intrusive, while having it out for doing the clutch as it is toast. It is a February 1998, 3.4, with cable throttle, manual and LSD. So until now I hava amassed: Sachs Clutch kit Low Temp Thermostat Water Pump A/C Condensers (irrelevant ) Crankshaft sensor (Was having trouble starting when engine was hot, in the hot summer of Cyprus) Last oil change I had found some brown plastic debris in oil meaning in need of cam chain guides. So I tried to understand what I can change easily and without really taking the engine to pieces to do so. I found this kit on FCP Euro - https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/porsche-timing-chain-kit-iwis-genuine-porsche-996timingkt I am not sure if I need to do everything in this kit. Car has been running ok, except a slight chain rattle on cold startups sometimes. I was thinking that only the 2 small chains are needed from that kit, all the chain guides included, and the 2 tensioners (99610518602 and 99610518802). I never noticed that there was a third one as well up to last night (99610518059). As I bought the car without service history, I am not sure if anything was ever done, and I assume that the IMS is the original one as well. I was advised by a shop to do that as well, but I don't feel that It is needed. I had a 3.6 C4S in the past which had an EPS IMS replacement, and I had bought it because of that, but the dual row IMS on this car was giving me a peace of mind as supposedely they do not fail as often I would assume that AOS would be a must to change as well, as the engine will be out of the car? Any other reccomendations?

If you can, get the car up in the air enough that you can get a good look underneath it...(!) I feel fine about my car until I actually see the underside Anything that looks especially crusty, minor leaks, dry rotted bushes, etc. These are not so much "engine out" jobs but are still good to get done while the car is away for a bit of a chunk of time. I'd assume replacing the RMS while the clutch is out (unless it looks 100% happy and dry). Variocam seals potentially... (these are quite different on the earlier vs later cars for how involved they are to replace). Worth listening to the wheel bearings... seeing if the inner tie rods feel "grouchy" etc

I had change all the control arms a year ago. And generally as I am in cyprus, car looked really good on the underside! Thanks for the heads up! Wheel bearings might be somehting that needs attention, will have to have alook. And I am sure RMS will not be that happy after some many miles. will have to investigate. But thing is that almost here noone stockes parts, so it is either ordering from the official dealer and wait 10 days or from design 911 and wait again a week or more, so have to be prepared for anything and replace parts even if they are not needd as can't have the car at the mechanic for 2-3 weeks!

Have a good look at the coolant hoses and clamps holding them on. Can't speak for cars in Cyprus, but a lot of UK cars have very crusty looking hoses now! And if you're draining the coolant for water pump and thermostat, this would be a good time do replace any dodgy hoses. There's nothing on your list that makes me think engine out is necessary, but if you do go that route, check the brake line that goes over the engine. The brake lines will probably be ok on a Cyprus car, but worth checking.

Hard to start when hot is most likely the Y-cable, very common issue. Definitely check the ims bearing and reseal (it's probably weeping). I'd be tempted to leave the RMS if it's not leaking. I did a post on clutch change/ims check check the thread in my signature. Taking the gearbox off won't make doing the variocam sliders any easier, arguably harder unless you're dropping the whole motor in which case crack on!

So while the engine is out try and do stuff that’s really hard with the engine in ..obvs The Y cable from starter to alternator The starter if it’s looking tired The AOS The plugs , tubes , coils , heat shields and bolts Any joints that are leaking oil or coolant Oil cooler Generally stuff on top at the back Good luck

Mine is cranking slower when warm which points to the Y cable but I’m not doing it until the winter when I drop the engine out

Yes to having a look at the starter motor. If it works then leave well alone but you will find that the grease around the rear bearing has solidified and therefore is probably not doing what grease should be doing so clean it all out and re grease. Also check the operation of the solenoid which will push the pinion out to engage the flywheel. Once again clean and re grease. I did that to my then 996 and the result was a very nasty squeak was silenced. It alo means you can clean ot replace the starter cable as has been mentioned.

Leave the RMS alone if it's not weeping. Inspect the IMS bearing and remove the outer seal so that the engine oil now lubricates it. Make sure you give the cover plate bolts a good dose of sealant. Check out the oil cooler and if it's looking tired, replace it. Give the starter motor spindle a good clean and lubricate.

Rear brake line over the gearbox would be wise to check it for any corrosion and replace if needed.

All these are really insightful! Thanks to all the feedback! I am not sure why we came to the conclusion with my mechanic that we are dropping the engine for the clutch change and the waterpump. Now I am thinking maybe we should not drop the engine, and just change them in situ, and do not bother with all the cam chain guides thing, eventhough the plastic pieces in the oil are of concern. Removing the IMS flange is fairly simple and cannot really cause any problems as moving the IMS and bend the chain? I thought it was straightforward, but then read the second line of Baz's post here: https://911uk.com/porsche/finally-ims-is-this-the-answer-and-ultimate-closure.81493/post-1038596 I was not aware of the Y cable, i thought that the not starting when hot issue was due to cranckshaft sensor. So one more thing to order beforehand! I know the valve cover is leaking on the driver side of the engine so will have to reseal that as well. So in generally is mostly cleaning and regreasing stuff due to age. Andwill do the spark plugs as well, as I had the plug sleeves changed but we kept the plugs as they looked ok when I got the car! Thank you for the valuable input!

Baz is talking about changing the ims bearing, not removing the seal. There is much more force applied removing the bearing and potential of internal damage. Not the same risk removing the bearing seal. Process to do it safely on a 3.4 is lock the crank with a pin or drill shank on the aux drive pulley, lock bank 1 (passenger side) camshaft with a locking tool. Slacken off bank 1 chain tensioner and you're good to go. If in doubt about the process, call Hartech and ask them. They'll no doubt tell you the same thing. Trust me - it's the right thing to do. .....and I'll just add - if your IMS cover plate is weeping (which there's a good chance it will be) you need to to remove the cover plate anyway, which is the same process as getting access to the bearing and removing the seal.

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Clutch change is easy on these cars, no need to drop the whole assembly. Likewise water pump is super simple, I did both of these on axle stands. Changing the variocam sliders is worthwhile though, sometimes good to get it all done in one hit. I assume corrosion isn't much of a concern for you, my brake pipe over the gearbox was mint and I'm in the UK, where we have salt and proper winters!

Quotes source post: 2747233

Well you'll need to drop the engine and or the gearbox to do a clutch. I haven't done a 911 yet but I would think it's easiest to drop the entire assembly and split it on the the floor. Boxster was very easy by dropping the gearbox. but access to the bolts is easier on that.

If you have plastic bits in the oil you will need to do the cam pads on the small cam chains, these wear quite bad and can fail causing serious damage these must be replaced.