29 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHSlow Oil Leak
Leading reported evidence
Fill prior
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Cabrio lifters leaking (I had found the pump dry, and filled prior to seeing him)- though I can NOT find any leaks.
Leading evidence: 'Fill prior' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'leaky solenoid' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check clutch & flywheel' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
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Discussions that suspect a cause
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Suspected cause
Probably a leaky solenoid for variocam at the midway up the valve cover.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
29 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
That is a chain tensioner. There is a sealing washer underneath, but I would loosen the chain tensioner just enough to get a cotton swab with some gasket sealer and rub it around the head and re-tighten it.
I have some similar leaky areas - does anyone have a under the engine photo that points out what the different parts are? I know that's very newb, but it would be helpful
I am not quite sure that the tensioner aluminum oring is leaking judging from the fuzz way above it. You might look above that for the source of the leak. Perhaps, solenoids, or AOS, or even valve cover bank 1.
U need to engine degreese and scrub it dry. Then inspect after driving to find the source. The aero turbulance under a car will spray oil everywhere so there is no way to pinpoint the issue.
Well i didnt want to start a new thread till i knew what the areas were called, but since you're asking...
heres a pic of two wet spots left and right of pic around bolts.
The wetness on the bolt to the right of the tensioner looks to be coming from the valve cover area. Probably a leaky solenoid for variocam at the midway up the valve cover. In the same area is also the AOS that is also known to leak.
The wetness on the bolt to the left of the tensioner looks to be a leak from the clutch area. Probably a rear main seal, or something in between the engine and gearbox. That one does not look very wet so maybe you shoud just leave it alone.
@Ben8jam
what year car do u have? If its a 3.4l the right leak is probably spark plug tubes. Left is most likely a rms or ims cover. As said above u would not mess with that.... until it was clutch time.
how do you recommend cleaning it? A solution or a steam cleaner?
I have old oil crud on outside of my passenger side heads that has been there for years, but no oil spotting on ground or oil loss in the short distance I drive the car in a season (2000 miles). I�m tempted to not do any investigation because of the lack of spotting or loss.
It's a 1999 with 99.7k miles. I've only put 150 miles on it. Nothing under seems to have changed in terms of visually more or less spotting. No drips on ground. Getting a 'post-inspection' done next week to set a baseline -- then stands and maybe venture into self-maintence...
I would think that's the spark plug tubes. You could clean the cam cover then change the plugs and tubes. Pretty inexpensive DIY as far as these cars go.
Now starting to see some drips on the garage floor - been driving it harder on each outing. Here is pic from the leak area. Is this RMS and at what point does one worry?
If clutch still has a long life on it (was most likely changed by PO), is there a point where it becomes more important to do the RMS work vs waiting for clutch?
Yes at some point but not at ths level. Rms leak in these cars if they sit for long periids of time and the rms seal has been changed by porsche many times. Monitor and if it stays the same leave it, if ithe spot keeps getting bigger u may have to do it. Its up to your comfort level...there is no guage to go by.
You (OP) seem like the type that worries about oil leaks like many of us. If that is so, just fix it now and be done. Pull the gearbox and ...
1. Do a clutch, PP, TO bearing if it is 50% or more worn
2. Change the RMS. Buy the latest Porsche one from a dealer, bend over. Install it properly. No lubrication (punt intended)
3. Inspect the IMSB flange seal, and take care of the IMS at this time IF it has not been done.
4. Change the AOS while you are in there with the gearbox out. Now is the time. Buy the Porsche one.
5. Change the leaking spark plug tube seals, and the plugs.
That is several thousand dollars of work. You bought a Porsche, what did you expect? It don't come cheap.
Well, I'm not the OP, just tacking onto the thread to avoid duplicate threads as I had a similar issue. And what do you mean "what did you expect?" Is that a pre-emptive response to what you assume everyone is going to say?
Well overall, I rolled the dice and think came out ahead (knock wood - please don't be one of those posts that haunts my dreams next year
). I very much wanted an early-build amber cabrio in silver and black. I risked it on a 99k, been sitting a while, dealer flip. Overpaid a bit, but I'm just not in a good position to spend a lot of time hunting and pecking - I just really wanted to break the 911 first buy seal.
I took her to the local highly recommended 911 mechanic. After a 3 week wait to get in, he did a post-buy inspection. No engine dropping or bore scoping - but would have if he felt it warranted the extra investment. What he came back with was (and funnily enough, this was 12/15 and I'm still trying to get the full write-up (called again today) as he's just very very busy guy-- don't hold that against him, he has a LOT of praise from other rennlisters and neighbors with far better cars than mine).
But in a nutshell, and to now totally hjjack the thread, from what I can remember:
1. RMS very minor leak (at the time, there was zero drops in my garage, now three weeks later i am seeing them- hence the follow up posts above). But he did say same thing of "wait till clutch". He didn't even mention IMSB flange, as a dual row.
2. Ignition coil minor leaks
3. Engine mounts need replacing (I was going to do that anyway and just waiting on new jack stands and the engine mounts)
4. Cabrio lifters leaking (I had found the pump dry, and filled prior to seeing him)- though I can NOT find any leaks.
5. Front sway? arm bushings (the metal ones) are worn and rattling.
6. Front shocks need replacing
7. There was front end damage listed on carfax from 2008 or so, he showed me the welds points. But besides, that no issues with repair work done, except the paint has chipped around headlights (so-so touch up job but that was obvious when I bought the car)
8. Clutch seems to have way over half it's life yet.
9. Brakes are 50-60% (i think that was the number, need his notes!)
10. No signs of coolant leaking
11. Original water-pump - he disagreed with pre-emptive replacement (one thing I was confused about, sounds like that SHOULD be a pre-emptive measure)
12. creaky clutch (spring assist)
13. lots of little creaks and noise - (suspension - hence my other posts about looking at diy'ing the whole thing)
14. tires are 2016 - said dealer should have been nicer not to do that - they have 100% tread, but old (will get new tires soon)
15. No "bad zone" over-revs.
I think that's it! He has very reasonable rates so I'll see what makes sense for me to do, vs paying for it. Time is money.
I had planned on posting this full write up once I got it in it's own thread, but since you asked
But my real point in this thread, was one day no leaks, then now leaking. (Zero smoke ever on startup - and I've recorded almost all of them)
Other things are the roll bar cover bracket snapped on one side, so it sticks up a little. One of the rollbar cover caps keeps falling off and needs replacing. Need to OEM the radio or get another that isn't a iPod dock connector circa 1925. Replacing the cigaratee thing in center console. Fix flappy sun visors.
If the car is a keeper for you, then you may want to consider making the engine bullet proof asap. You may be able to do quite a bit of this yourself, which saves you money.
1. Test your oil.
2. Drop your sump and see what you got. Also go thru your oil filter with a fine tooth comb.
3. Scope the bores.
If all checks out then i would do the following to prevent catastrophic engine failure. You will end up saving alot of money and time doing as much as you can when the engine is out. Your call.
1. Get a better IMSB such as an LN Retro or Solution. Mitigates IMSB failure
2. Replace your RMS, check your clutch & flywheel. Since you are already in there.
3. Replace your coils, plugs and fuel injectors. Helps your engine run better and mitigate excess fuel jn your oil which can lead to borescoring.
4. Replace your water pump asap. The fins break and when they do they get lodged in the engine creating heat and cracking. Leads to intermix and engine failure.
5. Replace your AOS with the UAOS track version for its street benefits. Mitigates intermix and hydralock. Not to mention you can accidentally overfil the engine oil and the UAOS won't fail.
Don't know about the 5 chain issues since I have a 3.6. But the other guys can pipe in on what needs to be replaced to prevent failure.
Yep, when the engine is out its easy to replace the motor and trans mounts. May want to also replace the oil cooler as well. It's cheap, new one may cool better and your failure point (rings) can lead to intermix. Don't forget to change all your fluids, water, oil, trans. Bet they are pretty old.
New MAF won't hurt either to make sure car is running properly since the MAF is the center of the universe.
Plenty more things I can add to the list. Figure 10-15k with your engine refresh. But if the car is a keeper, you will be able to sleep at night and enjoy driving it, versus walking in egg shells.
Save tires, exhaust, radio, suspension, etc for after you made sure it was bullet proof.
Heck, I've had a slow RMS drip for 8 years. Started 2 years after I put in my IMSB Retro, did the clutch/flywheel amd put in my lsd. Figured all it was going to I do was make a mess on my garage floor.
Just fixed it 9 mos ago.
Slow drips are common. Especialy if the car has been sitting for awhile. Gotta just drive the car and give it some exercise.
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