ASK Amp replacement question

I apologize if this question has already been answered somewhere else. I have searched and was unsuccessful in finding an answer to my question. This is my first time replacing/ installing an amp. Please excuse me if my question is basic. I have a 2007 Boxster 987.1 with SPP (ASK amp, 2 mids, 2 woofers, 1 center, 2 tweeters) without Bose . The mids and tweeters are powered by the head unit. The woofers and center are powered by the head unit. I am replacing the amp with a 4 channel amp so that I can either bridge the 2 woofers or to be able to power the center speaker as well. Still deciding and would love to hear your feedback. what I am confused about is how to wire the new amp. Which wires belong to the input and which belong to the output? What do you do with the existing power and ground wires from the ASK wiring harness, just cut them? Here is what I have worked out so far from the existing wiring harness: pin 1: red/brown (power) Pin 2: brown (ground) Pin 3: yellow/ brown (centre speaker (-)) Pin 4: red (front right (+) instrument panel) Pin 5: grey (front left (+) instrument panel) Pin 6: blue (RR (+)) - what does “RR” mean? Pin 7: white (RL (+)) - what does “RL” mean? Pin 8: blank Pin 9: grey (front left (+) woofer) Pin 10: red (front right (+) woofer) Pin 11: black/red (plus switch) Pin 12: blank Pin 13: yellow (centre speaker (+)) Pin 14: red/brown (front right (-)) Pin 15: grey/brown (front left (-)) Pin 16: blue/brown (rear right (-)) Pin 17: white/brown (rear left (-)) Pin 18: blank Pin 19: grey/brown (front left (-) woofer) Pin 20: red/brown (front right (-) woofer) So if I am only using the wires for the woofers (and maybe the centre speaker). Where do the other 14-16 wires go? Any help/ guidance would be greatly appreciated. I have attached a photo of my ASK wiring harness as well as a wiring diagram I have used to figure out what the wires do. Thank you in advance for your help.

RR = Rear Right RL = Rear Left I'm not understanding exactly what you want to do - - Why do you want to "bridge" the two "low-range" (aka woofers) speakers? That makes them mono not stereo, and these do have quite a bit to do with the stereo imaging. - Or are you talking about bridging the amplifier channels? That makes your 4 channel amp into a 2 channel amp. - Where are you getting the input for the amplifier you're adding, and what amplifier is it? - Does it have "speaker" level inputs? Does it have RCA level inputs? - Am I correct in assuming it has gain controls for at least 2 channels (front and rear)? The simplest hookup you can do with a 4-channel amp is to leave the door mid-range and dash tweeters wired as they are. Forget about the center speaker. Then send the wiring that goes FROM the radio TO the amplifier (RR+ and RR- pins 6 and 16 to the right channel on the amp), and (RL+ and RL- to the right channel on the amp.) Those should probably be sent to speaker-level inputs if there is any choice on the amp you have. Then wire the new amplifier outputs to the wiring going to the low-range speakers in the door (Pins 9 & 19 for the left speaker and Pins 10 & 20 for the right speaker.) That setup takes the old amp out of the equation... and ignores the center speaker (not a big loss)... you can then balance out the system using the gain controls on the new amp. For power for the new amp - you can use the power going to the old ASK amp. IF the amp you bought has a power-on trigger, you can power it up to the constant power connection on it using the RED /BRN wire going to Pin 1. (Terminal 30 indicates this is a power-always-on connection). You then can use the Plus Switched (BLK/RED, Pin 11) as the source of the trigger voltage to turn the amplifier on when the audio is turned on. Some amps don't require a separate switched trigger signal - they turn on when they see an audio signal at the input jacks. If so - you don't need to connect the Pin 11 circuit. There'ya go.. Diagram for reference - please read https://www.planet-9.com/threads/posting-photos-in-posts-to-planet-9.253974/ - that explains how to resize images like the one you uploaded here so they can appear IN the thread without the need for a click-through. That is the preferred way to post images on Planet-9. Let us know how it works out - and when you have a chance - visit https://www.planet-9.com/forums/new_members/ and introduce yourself and your Porsche to the forum - you'll find we're a friendly group here..

Hi Don thank you for your reply. to answer some your questions: By bridge I meant making the 4 channel amp to 2 channels. I was hoping to use the wires that run to the existing ASK amp for inputs. Can this be done or new wires need to be run. The amp I purchased is the Boss AR1600.4 . I don’t know if I purchased the right now one but I was on sale during Black Friday. 1600 W MAX Power, 4 Channel 300 W X 4 RMS @ 2 ohm 150 W X 4 RMS @ 4 ohm 600 W X 2 RMS Bridged @ 4 ohm Full Range, Class A/B, MOSFET Power Supply High and Low Level Inputs Fixed High Pass Crossover, Variable Low Pass Crossover, Variable Bass Boost Thanks again for your help, Don.

@ 987BoxsterPorsche - Welcome to P9! Don knows his stuff here when it comes to audio -- so you're definitely get on the right rack on this. With a replacement amp, you may really be in great shape; I have an ASK amp and "it's just okay." As Don said, please be sure to post a bit about yourself first (with car photos) in the New Members forum as it's a major tradition here before asking technical questions. Cheers!

I think that's too much amplifier. If you use that one you'll be replacing the door woofers shortly because the foam edges will be torn up. Just sayin'.... huge watts aren't really needed in a small space like a 987 interior unless you have somewhere to hide a few 15" woofers and about 4 10" mids.. If it's possible to return that one, I might suggest: https://a.co/d/i9GgsHJ - Blaupunk, adequate power, and it has a nice low-pass filter built in so you can have it only amplify what you want the "low range" speakers to reproduce. My suggestion for wiring - don't cut ANYTHING at all. Unplug the connector from the ASK amp and leave it intact - just in case sometime in the future someone owns the car that wants it 100% stock and is willing to spend the money to repair or replace the amp. Since you have what I'd call and Ask series 1 system - the amp lives in the frunk, behind the tire-inflator compressor and goop... it can say there, because that Blaupunk amp will fit right in the compartment directly above that now only has the evaporative emissions charcoal housing in it. This is the one with two doors - one on the front and one on the top. You'll have to make up a small platform for the amp, one that's level with the top of the evap container - then the new amp can sit right on top of them, and you can run the wiring down to the connector for the old amp. You should be able to get all the signals you need right from the connector for the old amp. You can get your left and right channel signals as I described above. You can connect the output of your new amp to the door speakers right at that connector. You'll do this all with the magic of "Positaps".. I believe the blue should be the right size.. Crutchfield sells them: Posi-Products™ Wire Connectors As does Amazon: https://a.co/d/dq53xBY I'd suggest the blue ones - you'll need ummm get a 15 pack. That will leave you with a few left over. You need 4 for the signal from the headunit to the new amplifier. You'll need 4 for the signals from the new amplifier to the speakers. You'll need 3 for the two power leads and a ground connection. And you'll need one for the one you drop that gets away and goes and hides in the dark corner of the garage with the 10mm sockets and red-straws from spray cans. So that's 12. You'll have a couple of them left over. Good luck - let us know how it goes!

Thank you, Don. You have been an incredible help. I greatly appreciate you. Thank you. 🙏🏼

That amplifier requires a +12V trigger signal from the headunit in order to tell it to turn on. That can be provided by hooking into the wire marked "Antenna" on the headunit harness - that is to provide power for the antenna amplifiers. It can be used to trigger an external audio amplifier also since that use draws negligible power.

You beat me to it. I just figured it out and it sounds so good 😊. I am excited to take the car out in the spring. I had everything hooked up correctly. The problem was that my head unit (Atoto A6) has a setting to tell the amp to turn on which is hidden in the sound menu. I thought maybe there was something wrong with the trigger wire. Man does it sound good. @deilenberger I could not have done this without your expertise. Thank you 🙏🏼 I am appreciative of all of your help and guidance.