IMS Service 996.2 - "While You're In There" Parts/Upgrades List?

Is there a comprehensive list of parts/upgrades to install "While You're In There" doing the IMS replacement? - Hard Brake Line? - AOS? - Etc...Etc... We will also be installing new suspension, mid-pipe with high flow cats and oxygen sensors, and of course doing an alignment. The vehicle is a 2003 996 C4S Manual with 50k miles in need of a proper baseline "stage 0" full service. Thanks

At 45000 miles, when I got my car I did: IMS Solution Water Pump/Coolant RMS AOS (there was on UAOS yet) clutch and flywheel Within the next 5000 miles (well 4 years) I also changed engine mounts and expansion tank and the plastic coolant coupling with a metal one.

clutch, if dropping the engine inspect rms and coolant resevoir tank... uaos (or new aos)

imho, If it was me doing it... 1) IMSB oil fed replacement 2) RMS 3) Clutch disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot shaft bearing, bleed clutch, deglaze flywheel or replace if out of spec 4) Flywheel bolts 5) Check all tranny mounts 6) AOS or uaos & check all aos hoses, connections. imo only, If in warm climate bypass aos coolant to aos jmo

Quotes source post: 18553527

I drive a 2003 C4S purchased in 11/2021 from a dealer with about 40, 500 miles. In January of 2022, I had the local dealer do the following Drop engine/trans -IMSB LN replacement "While in there" the following: RMS Clutch AOS Plugs Coils Injectors Serpentine belt and guides various air filters Coolant pump Coolant surge tank motor mounts replace all, and I mean all, fluids 4 wheel alignment two new rear tires remove front bumper cover and clean radiators drop sump pan and inspect (no particles of any type); no metallics on magnetic plug probably more odds and ends I have forgotten The car was in the shop for about 3 weeks. Hope this helps. Rick

Only things I can think of that haven�t already been mentioned; timing chain tensioners (3) oil cooler (or at least the o-ring seals) oil pressure sensor (mine failed shortly after I had my engine out, wish I had done it then)

Great info....thanks to all. I'll do up a summary and edit my first post. As these cars age and require transmission out IMS/RMS/Clutch services (again), it will be nice to not miss anything.

Went through this 2 years ago but with a 996.1 FIRST - have someone who is knowledgeable about the M96 drop the sump and check for bore scoring. I�d suggest the nearest Certified IMS Solution installer. Then: IMS Solution Clutch Flywheel RMS AOS Plugs Coilpacks Timing Chain Tensioners Fuel Injectors Water pump + low temp thermostat Serpentine Belt + Rollers +Tensioner Fuel Filter Flush ALL fluids

As mentioned somewhere above, definitely replace the engine and tranny mounts. If the engine is coming out change the coolant recovery tank and cap with Porsche parts only. I know people have changed them with the engine in, but it's a b*tch. Spend the money and get the UAOS. Cry once and be done with it. The job is much easier with the engine out.

I am going to jump in... I recently (last April) did basically everything that has been listed (including suspension) except the UAOS. Not sure why? I also didn't do motor/tranny mounts -- doesn't seem to need them, but no record of being done, so probably should have done them. Couple questions: Appx. how many hours in labor is a Porsche specialist looking at billing to install UAOS? And second question, what is the sign that the motor and/or tranny mounts need to be addressed? Appreciate any replies.

Quotes source posts: 18553751, 18554186

In the UAOS design the high velocity/low pressure flow area is moved to near the throttle body in a much warmer area , and such the UAOS comes with a coolant by-pass kit that elininates all associated faulure involving coolant and lines and even intermix.... Pretty car !! I recomend 4 hours labor to install UAOS on a 996.1 ...5 hours on a 996.2 .....and 6 hours on a Tiptronic......but there is no "book time" to replace an AOS and some shops think it is more difficult than this...TMMV

Re: Worn motor mounts The rubber bushing at the bottom where the mounting stud protrudes from will be, in some cases, significantly shorter than new mounts. The rubber bushing basically sinks into the motor mount over time. From the top my motor mounts looked great. From the bottom they were probably over 1/2" shorter than the new mounts. The tranny mount is often overlooked, but the rubber in that mount will be just as worn as the motor mounts, so replace all 3.

YYC, The guys gave you a pretty good list. I just went thru the same exercise last year with my 10 year refresh. While it will cost you a few bucks, ut will be worth it knowing your car will work when you want it to. Couple things to think about if you are a sequential thinker. It's the process I used 9 months ago. 1. Before you spend any big bucks, test your oil at home to see what's in it. The analysis will tell you alot about the condition of your engine. Since you only have 50k miles, pretty good chance you are OK. But its good to check anyways. If the tests are good, then proceed to #2 below. If the tests aren't good, you will need to talk to your indy about next steps. Either way, the data is needed. 2. Here is another item to do before you spend big bucks. Have your indy drop the sump and cut open the oil filter to see what's in there. If they are clean, then proceed to step 3 and drop the engine. If not, you will need to talk to your indy about next steps. 3. Drop the engine and proceed with the list you are accumulating. A couple of things to think about when you drop the engine. First, the parts are probably 20 years old. Plastic and rubber become brittle with wear and age. It may be wise to replace things that either require the engine to be dropped or just because you are in there and it will save in labor if they have to do it at a later date with the engine in. i pretty much did everything the guys have recomended on this thread except 1 item, which was replace the power steering rubber and plastic parts. Didnt even think about it. I now have a leak. Gotta take it back to the indy and it will cost me more than if I had them replace the parts with the engine out. If you don't mind a large bill, do as many "while you are in there" things as possible. Your call if it makes sense. Some guys are pretty good wrenchers and do only what needs to be done at the time. Other guys are like me who don't have the wrenching skills so I would rather do it and get it over with. Buts it's a more expensive proposition. Good luck with the car. It's a keeper.