BGB / Fabspeed Cold Air Intake Install (with Pics)

I am going to try and expand on these pics and improve the install information, but here are the pics for now: 1. Here is a 987.2 DFI engine after the carpet panel and metal insulating panel are removed. 2. You start off with a Phillips head screwdriver and remove the two screws holding on the access panel to the air filter. 3. Next step is to remove another screw in the airbox that actually holds the air filter assembly in place. Remove the air filter. 4. Next I removed the the breather hose assembly which is just held on with some quick disconnect plastic fittings at the front and back of the engine. They should remove completely so you can set them aside. 5. Next step is to move the vacuum line setup. There is a hose clamp where it connects to the throttle body which I got with a set of pliars and then twisted the hose to remove it. I left it connected at the back of the engine compartment and just moved it aside for the install. 6. Next I removed that nice shiny bracket that is attached to the intake manifold. It is held on with three torx T10 head (need to check) bolts. 7. The next step is to remove the strap that goes over the top of the intake manifold. There is a torx T27 inside head bolt that you will need to remove with a nut driver and then the bracket is able to be seperated from the intake manifold and removed. 8. Now it is time for a big step. Removing the driver side intake manifold. It is held in by 5 torx T10 head bolts (need to check). The rear four are easy to access but the one closest to the driver compartment is a little more difficult, but I was able to get it with a long extension and my socket. Then with some pulling to separate the adhesion that has formed with the intake manifold gasket you pull the manifold out. 9. Look at those oily intake ports and there was also lots of oil in the rubber center section of the intake plenum. 10. I took this shot to try and show the sooty build up that has already occurred on my less than 5,000 mile DFI Cayman R. My camera skills and flash weren't good enough to capture it though. 11. Tape off those intake ports for protection. It is almost cutting time. I should have also taped off the center of the intake plenum, but I didn't think shavings would get in there. 12. The airbox is held in with two 10mm bolts. One on the firewall and one under the airbox mounted to where the snorkel meets the airbox. It is also held in with a plastic push in connector inside the upper left corner of the airbox. No pics of the brutal hack job I did with a sawzall and air powered cut off wheel, but I cut the OEM airbox in two and removed it without dropping the engine at all. Our first vision of where the new intake and filter will be going. 13. Whoa look at all those plastic shavings. Glad I covered those intake ports. Time to hook up the blow gun on my air hose and get them all out of there. 14. There we go clean as a whistle. Note I put a nice clean rag (old undershirt) in the center section to keep any plastic bits from going in there. 15. Plenty of threads about desnorking already, so I will save the pics. I basically just pulled my OEM grill out with brute strength which resulted in breaking two of the four clips that held it in place. Here is what it looks like after the grill is removed. 16. Here is the lower portion. Note the rubber that is over the right tab in the picture. That is how the big mass of rubber that keeps air and water out of your car is connected that will be removed later. 17. Desnorking complete and we can see the engine compartment. You will note the rubber oval piece that keeps the air going into the air box and not in your car. The panels in there are removed simply with your hands and pushing the plastic tabs. 18. Here is a view of that rubber piece from the engine compartment. It is partially removed at this point, but I wanted to show that it is held in place with three 10mm bolts so you need to remove all three of those or risk tearing it. 19. Here is a picture of me removing the big rubber thing. This kind of shows the scale of it. it is really large and basically fills the entire fender well. I would recommend taping up your paint before this step to prevent any scratches. I wasn't smart enough to do it, but the paint survived. 20. Here is a back side shot of the retaining nut for the three 10mm bolts in the engine compartment. I hadn't removed this bolt at this point so it was still holding the rubber piece in. This shot shows the compartment between the engine area and the fender area where the new filter will sit. Note that nice electronic gizmo in the left side of the shot. With the rubber removed there will be nothing to protect this from air and water. 21. Rubber completely removed and another clear shot to the engine compartment. Note that silver trim ring is taking up some of our real estate in access to this area. It has to go. 22. Here is that trim ring on the other side. It is held in by the sound deadening material and the three 10mm bolts that we already removed. 23. I decided do use my utility knife and cut away the sound deadening that was holding the panel in and then removed the panel as shown below. Now we have more room to get the filter in that little compartment. 24. Here is a view from the outside of the car of the filter squeezed in and the carbon fiber panel mounted. I pushed the filter in through the engine side of the compartment. 25. Here is the view from the engine side with the filter and the metal filter adapter pipe mounted and sticking out the carbon fiber panel.

Final install pictures. More text will be added later:

Great work! Thanks for the pics so far.

great job with the pics. bravo

Added text for each image. I need to back check the sizes of the bolts.

Excellent contribution, thank you.

Ladies and Gents, I must apologize. Over the last few days it has become apparent that you are getting the wrong adapter tube sent from Fabspeed . I have to apologize. They have recognized the problem and are shipping out the right part. Chris, thanks very much for taking the time to post and write a very thorough walk through; awesome. Sit tight folks. For those of you that tore apart your Caymans only to be rendered immobile, I'm sorry. We are on it. John Tecce BGB Motorsports

I really appreciated your quick response yesterday. I know these problems will be fixed, and that I will love this intake once I get to drive the car and dyno it to see the power gains.

can you please turn this topic thread into an Article in our Articles section please as well? Much of what you have already authored can be cut/pasted into the editor in the Articles section to help create a how-to article there. Thanks in advance!

I was planning on it K-Man. I really just wanted to get the pics up quick to help anyone and show how I had things configured so far.

Understood and I don't want to stop your efforts here, just wanted to make sure an article came out of it all so we could feature it in the next newsletter. (pressure is on) :taunt: :cheers:

Intake tube and carbon fiber plate. Intermediate tube installed to MAS. Intake tubes fully installed. Looking through the side intake towards the engine with all of the insulation and rubber removed. Looking down at the filter through where the storage pocket would be Wrapping the storage pocket with Dynamat Dynamat on the seat belt pilar area Trimmed up rubber water boot Installed rubber water boot Outside all done

Anyone that has done or is doing this mod that is interested in testing a set of our INCREASED AIR FLOW Turbo styled side vents please PM me for a special 1x testing offer I have to think with MORE AIR comming in the faster you go It should have some sort of increase in performance :thanks:

Damn, nice photos guys. Seeing this now installed has lead me to the question of what happens if it rains?

It never Rains here in Seattle but thats a great question

Awesome write up guys. Can anyone comment on the increase in noise. I have heard bad things but then again everyone also said borla was too loud. Also interested in how this would work with the ipd plenums. Looking forward to some dynos.

Please post some videos if you can! Both KingTut with the sound insulation still in place and Kinetic with the insulation removed. Some independent dynos would also be great.

Thinking of water getting into the cone area of the filter... How does water effect a racing filter? Is this of no concern unless driving in a hurricane on a track at full throttle? Could the stock snork plate (or the top part of it) be left in place to divert the water down and out of the drain. I would think that if the snork plate is reduced in size then there would not be a significant power loss.

You wont like the sound without insulation, its a very strong diesel turbo like sucking sound. A video of the sound with new insulation is posted on the other thread.

What gains are you seeing from fitting the 997/2 throttle body and plenum ? Is there any advantage to retaining the split intake plenum of the standard cayman / boXster ? On the gen 1 cars I believe removing the split intake saw a power and torque loss below 3000 rpm.

Took new pics today, and I will update them later today.

Final install pics added including pics of the carnage.

I completely finished the install last night. I found it necessary to install an aluminum plate on top of the filter and the use the stock fibrous noise adsorption material on top of that. This eliminated the sucking sound from the intake. I did use a large piece of Dynamat on top of the aluminum overlapping onto the car's body to keep it all in place. I do not know if the other Dynamat I have added around the storage box is necessary with the covering over the filter and the stock material... the overall sound level is now *very* acceptable and I am not touching anything I also installed a small aluminum plate where the snork plate was, but not as restricting as the snork plate (the fact that I did not think I would need that plate again and threw it out was a factor in making my own plate as well). The plate looks like it will be very effective with diverting leaves and water down and away from the filter. I can say that this mod was not something I would have recommended and was even thinking of pulling out... Now that I have the sucking sound gone and the water diverting plate in place I am very happy with the solution and would do it again.

Nice write-up, but other than more intake noise, what's the real measurable benefit?

Not sure if you are serious. The benefit is horsepower. I didn't install it for any reason other than that.

You guys, who are pioneering/debugging this installation, are braver souls than me.

I know your goal is more HP, but are there any dyno results from Fabspeed to prove it?

Not that I am aware of. I am going on my faith in BGB/ Fabspeed at this point.

Good luck...I hope you do get an improvement :cheers:

I definitely feel more kick over 4k... enough to you push back into the seat. I did get PSS9s and RSS LCAs this week as well so not sure what to attribute to what though.

Interesting pics. I may still consider this. I need to find out how to remove my trim on the inside of the car so I can take a look at that area.

Did you have to squash that cone filter to fit it through the hole?

Yes, or install it from the top with the side pocket removed. I am hoping that by the time I need a new filter someone will have found one that fits without removing the pocket.

Damn, those vents look HOT!!! Must buy when I return from my deployment.