The Hartech racing deep sump oil pan is a new(ish) deep sump product for M97 engines. Differing itself from others, this product integrates an additional windage tray with a custom-cast deep-sump pan, to hopefully maintain oil pressure on high-G cornering with R-compound
tires
. This thread is specifically intended to show how to install this deep sump system.
Parts needed:
Hartech Racing Sump, purchased through Slakker Racing Development;
Hartech Racing Sump 986/987.1
Loctite 241 (blue)
Disassembly
First up, get the car up in the air. I built some wheel cribs that make it easy and stable. Once up, you can see my stock (dirty) oil pan:
Once you've drained the oil and removed all 13 torx bolts, use a small pry bar to separate the pan from the block (gently). There are a few spots like the below pictured where it's easy to lever down against the pan lip. Of note, there is no oil pan gasket, just form-a-gasket, even from the factory:
Once you've got it out, you've got yourself a mess, and can see the factory plastic sump deflector. Take caution not to break this part, as you need it later:
A look at the Hartech Sump
Moving to the hartech sump, you can see it's a pretty trick unit. All one piece cast and machined:
The windage plate with baffles comes with, and sits on top once assembled:
A hardware kit comes with it:
Assembling the Hartech Sump
First step, modify your factory plastic sump deflector. You might be able to see my measurement scratches, but here's the before and after:
After cleaning, sealant is applied to the hartech sump, and the windage plate is installed. Loctite SI 5900 is used as the sealant here, then loctite 241 (blue) threadlocker on the four M6 button head screws, torqued to 10nm.
Amazon.com
As you can see above, the plastic sump deflector is installed next, no sealant, with the three bolts torqued to 14nm.
Back to the Car
The pickup spacer can be installed next. The kit provides the spacer, two new gaskets, and longer bolts. This just gets stacked up and installed with more 241, to 14nm. Of note, I have the later style oil aerators, so no other modification is necessary here.
Stock:
Spacer installed:
Clean the block, removing as much of the old sealant as you can, as well as the oil from the bottom. Apply more Loctite SI 5900 to the block, and put the pan up.
Wrapping Up
I apologize for the fuzzy picture! Oil on the lens.
At this point, it is recommended that you wait 12-24 hours for the Loctite 5900 to cure before adding oil. Assuming you didn't have any stripped oil pan bolt holes to deal with like I did, you're
almost
done.
This pan sits about 36mm off the bottom of the block. This is about 20mm lower than the OEM pan hangs down. As a precautionary step, it's a good idea to install a skidplate.
BONUS, LN Engineering Skid Install
Hold the skid up to the car to see where it attaches. Two bolts at the front end of the trans skid need to be removed, and two engine brace bolts at the front of the engine need to be
loosened
. Do this, slide the skid above the trans skid *first, thread the bolts in by hand, then line up and raise the skid up at the front. Tighten all four fasteners you touched for this part good-n-tite, and call it a day.
Finally, for those curious, the LN Engineering skidplate definitely works with the Hartech Racing Sump. Plenty of adjustment in the skid attachment points, and the sump is not too deep.
EDIT: One last step I neglected to include. The rear most plastic belly pan needs to be trimmed to fit around the LN engineering skid. Pictured is it installed. You can see the rectangular chunk taken out. I could have cut it back farther, but I felt it was best to let the belly pan lay up against the leading edge of the skidplate for aero purposes:
Overall, not an awful job, but it can be time consuming. I had three oil pan bolt holes in the block strip on me on pan install, torqueing to a measly 14nm. Irritating to say the least. Nothing that some drilling, tapping and helicoil-ing the block of your definitely not cheap Porsche engine block can't fix, lol.
Happy Wrenching!!
If you find yourself in a position to consider helicoils (sorry for that circumstance) I highly recommend this instead, they are far superior IMO.
++ TIME-SERT Official Threaded inserts for stripped threads, blown out sparkplugs, (timesert.com)
I'm familiar with time-serts, but thanks for sharing! I had the appropriate helicoils in my toolbox, and I've never had one fail.
WOW! I want to thank
@GLTHFJ60
for this outstanding DIY tech post. I'm flabbergasted at the quality.. simply one of the best I've seen. It's content like this that makes Planet-9 such a valuable resource for the Porsche owner!
Thanks MUCH! And a big big thumbs up!
One thing I noted that's of interest to me (and possibly only to me) is the engine has the oil level sensor coming into the pan from the top of the sump (the photo with the stock oil pickup shows it clearly)... I know some other models use a level sensor that mounts upward through the bottom of the pan... this is clearly a better design when adding the larger capacity sump. The level remains the same, the oil pickup is deeper into the oil (less likely to suck air or bubbles) and a greater capacity of oil to make up for any trapped out in the head..
That's a good call out, and totally accurate. It's very convenient to be able to use the factory oil level sender as the factory intended, only difference being that there's more oil there when it reads F
What type of solvent did you use to clean the bottom parts of the engine. It looks great, and the LN skid plate fits, especilly with the one center rib being removed to allow a even space between the sump face and the skid plate. Hopefully many more Porsche Cayman 987.1 owners will also get the message that if they intend to track their M-97 engineed car, they too will need the Hartech sump.
Are you talking about internally or externally? Well I guess it doesn't matter, because I didn't clean the engine at all. It is (was) a stock 08 engine with 32k miles.
When I purchased my Hartech sump, I asked Brandon to include the baffle and swirl pots that Slakker Racing recommends. What I was looking at is the center outside rib was ground down by the oil
plug
. Looking across the installed sump with the LN skid plate, that rib if not removed could touch the skid plate. Mine is also ground flat to allow the engine not touch the LN skid plate.
It is as I received it from Slakker. Brandon @ Slakker told me to use the stock baffle cut down, and as my engine is later, no swirl pot change or modification was needed.
Did you talk to Brandon about the oil fill amount and the
AOS
. The LN 2 QT deep sump may have a problem with overfilling the sump and pushing the oil on top of the windage plate up the sidewalls into the
AOS
at the top of the sump. In their testing, they really liked the Hartech sump with 1 QT overfilled using a
Porsche
AOS
. The result is very small deviations in oil pressure, even in very high G loads (1.6 G) from racing slicks and a 16 lap event. You can see the red line oil pressures in the LN graph vs the Hartech.
Yes, man. You've reposted this same info like 5 times on the forum in various places, lol. This thread is just to cover how to install the Hartech Racing Sump, not the whole setup for my car. That'll be a different thread in the future.
I attached the instructions that were provided to me by Brandon @ Slakker Racing to the first post for you. Regarding oil level, it states: "The sump adds an extra 1.4 litres of volume to the engine. We recommend that when filling the engine with oil you run the oil level between 1/2 to full on the dipstick or dashboard oil readout."
Paul,
Thank you for responding as others read this communication and may have a need for Hartech's sump reduced oil instability for their track days.
Ken
Great writeup! Do you happen to know the plastic sump baffle part number? I threw mine out when I installed my LN kit...
@Slakker
, will the kit work with the metal baffle from the LN kit, or should I source an original plastic piece?
Ask Brandon at Slakker, he sent me the rubber baffle that fits the Hartech sump and the swirl pots as well. Changed me for them but I know they fit correctly.
Looks like it's 997 107 243 00 for the sump deflector. I asked brandon if I should order the X51 style baffle, but it's unknown if that style baffle works with the sump. All the pressure testing was done with the stock plastic (modified) sump deflector, so that's what I used.
$60ish from
porsche
:
2006-2008 Porsche Cayman Baffle 997-107-243-00 | Sunset Porsche Parts
2006-2008 Porsche Cayman part # 997-107-243-00 - Baffle
www.sunsetporscheparts.com
Thank you both for the replies. I'll go ahead and order it through
Pelican
or something.
If I could give one piece of advice to whoever installs their own baffle after reading this, make sure to use a lot less sealant. You only need a bead about 3mm wide and it will squish down enough to seal. Anything beyond that and you risk some smashing out over the edge and into the sump. If that happens, the little "worms" can get caught in passageways and either stop oil flow, or cause hot spots. This is a known failure resulting from people replacing any type of sump plate (even stock) and was likely what killed my engine (sump installed by previous owner).
A majority of non-starvation related GR86/BRZ (ZN8) motor failures are from exactly this.
RTV
sealant clogs the oil pickup. In LN's instructions for the LN Deep Sump it also highlights this.
