Best front ball joint splitter tool? EDIT - Ordered the KS tools item, note to self - use search function!

I'm going to replace the CV boots on the front of mine and see that they might need a specific tool and jaw width of 24mm(?). My current tool is too small, so if I'm going to buy a new one, I might as well get the best one for the job. Are there any preferred or recommended brands, types and or model numbers to get? I really don't like using pickle forks, as this conflicts with my kid gloves approach to maintenance. Also, do I need a deep socket for the hub or will a regular one do? Any other specialist or odd-ball tools required for a CV boot replacement?

which tool did you order in the end

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KS Tools 700.5610 Ball Joint Extractor got several positive reviews of doing the job well, so went with that.

I know you've already bought the tool but I've always found a few sharp blows to the side of the hub (not coffin arm) next to where the taper sits get them to release no problem. Beware that there is a steel insert cast into the bottom of the hub to reinforce the area where the taper sits, you need to make sure the fork part of the tool sits over this otherwise it can stay stuck on the taper and is pulled out of the hub (think it will sit over it, but worth checking) Mac

Thanks Mac, noted.

I did mine a couple of months ago. I have a tool similar to the one you've just bought and I couldn't get it to seat properly - pickle fork and a couple of whacks sorted it. Hopefully your new tool will be fine. If you're releasing the hub nut with the wheel on, then a deep socket would be useful, but you might get away with using an extension bar. I use the handle from my trolley jack for extra leverage. Trickiest part of the job was releasing the circlip that holds the CV joint on the shaft. Chris

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Thanks. The model number I posted has specific 'worked great' feedback for the 996 on this very forum, so hopefully it'll do the job. I bought a deep impact 32mm socket for the job and have a selection of long poles to use if my windy gun decides it wants a day off. I've downloaded a few Youtube how-to's which don't seem to throw up any major issues, but happy to take on board any pointers to make the job easier?

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Not particularly. Slacken the hub nut first. You’ll probably need a couple of extension bars to get a socket with a hex drive onto the inner flange bolts of the driveshaft. Otherwise, it’s a bit of a dirty job as you’ll need to clean away some of the grease to get sight of the circlips - clamping the shaft in a vice helps to steady things while you wrestle with the clip. It’s worth checking the reluctor rings while you’re at it - these are the toothed rings that allow the car to sense individual wheel speed - clean or replace if corroded. Otherwise, just take your time and work through it.

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May I ask, is there a particular type of pliers I'll need to pinch the cv boot straps tight? I've done a quick google search and there appears to be several types. Also, a post #6 on this thread.... https://911uk.com/threads/front-outer-cv-boot-replacement-tips-advice.85097/ suggests the hub and suspension doesn't need to come apart, but I'm struggling to see how that would be possible and didn;t want to resurrect a thread from the dead. I've no problem following th eprescribed method, but if there's a less intrusive way?

Pliers: Yes. I bought a set of boot/hose clips and crimping pliers online. Not expensive and it's a lot easier than trying to use ordinary pliers. You might find this video useful in explaining how to remove the shaft without splitting the lower ball joint:

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Thank you, I do have that and a few other videos on the subject saved to favourites, but forgive me for probably missing something, the method prescribed in that video shows the use of a ball joint separator and appears to be similar to the other videos on the subject. Is that just the steering ball joint they're removing there and not the main lower one? I'm trying to understand what post #6 in the thread I linked to is referring to when it mentions not interfering with suspension geometry? From what I see on all the videos on this subject, none of the adjustable elements get disturbed so I'm not confident which element would actually impact geometry just be removing the inner A arm fixed pivot and refitting it in the same fixed location? Also, can you post a picture of the best boot ring pliers to buy as there are different types and I want to make sure I get the correct ones. Thanks in advance.

This video appears not to use a ball joint separator at all, so I'm wondering if this is the best method and saves the expense of the ball joint separator which is on back order. It shows here (screen grab from the video) that all ball joints remain in place....

Also, is a new 32mm drive shaft nut required or can the old one be re-used?

The only joint that you’ll need to separate is what we call the ‘track rod end’ - the steering linkage. As far as I’m aware, your only need to get the geometry adjusted if you remove the top strut mount. Sometimes these can be dislodged with a couple of hammer blows to the hub - see videos online - but a splitter is belt-and-braces. As for ‘which pliers’ just look on Amazon and pick something that you like the look of. I see that some of the ‘kits’ offer a stretching tool too - that would be useful. A new drive shaft nut is advised.

Noted, thanks. I'm all a bit delicate and 'kid gloves' when working on my cars, so I'd rather use a splitter than resorting to hammer blows, but accept this is perfectly acceptable method.