How to remove front brake splash shields?

I think I know the answer, but just want to make sure I'm not missing something more obvious. I have the full 360 degree splash shields as per below and from what I can see, the only way to remove and or replace these is to remove the front hub? I know people run without them, but I want to keep them and maintain originality. If the only way to remove is to pull the hub (?), I guess this is a job that required a puller or press? Seems a bit of a poor design to have such an item inaccessible without significant strip down?

Yes is your answer. And yes it's a stupid design. Personally I'd try and refix/repair your one's that ae on as you run the risk of splitting the bearing when you try to remove the hub......as well as all the other fun and games like undoing the central large nut that's torqued up with a 10ft wrench!!!! I'm guessing they've corroded around the fixing holes. Easy fix is take the bolt out, then fit a large stainless steel penny washer that'll cover the corrosion and reclamp the dust shield in place.

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Thanks for confirming Alex. I was just conscious it might be like one of those IQ tests that appear impossible, but then the person who knows how, solves the puzzle and makes everyone feel stupid. Thankfully, mine are rust free (I really can't believe this car), but grubby as hell and need a damn good clean and soaking. However, my main reason for wanting to remove them is to clean the hub carrier which is also really grubby. I've already got it off the car and on the bench with the hub nut and axle removed, it's just that it's really in the way of my cleaning plans, so I hoped it might be easier to remove than it first appeared. Guess I've got to weigh up the pros and cons of pulling the hub and splitting the bearings, versus cleaning round a loose backing plate that is sure to drive me nuts! I'll post more details on my noob thread. I'm starting feel a little less like a noob now thanks to this wonderful community, but I guess it's all relative. Thanks again.

Yes it’s a bad design especially as they use steel bolts to fit them but you can get m6 aluminium bolts which is what I’ve done. Unless you think your wheel bearings are needing changed I’d leave it alone.

Sometimes it can press out easy. Worth a try.

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Thankfully my bolts all came out okay with a little of my favourite penetrant. Bulldox BDX. I was always disappointed with WD-40, but had great success with Plus-Gas over the years until someone recommended the Bulldog. Amazing stuff. I'll check the bearings. Might have a little tickle with the puller - if they come out with little effort, great, but if not, I'll probably leave alone as you say. Not worried about pulling the bearings, but don't have a press to re-insert.

Just checked the bearings and whilst there's no detectable play, they sound noisier than I expected. Are these normal or due a change?

Only way you can properly check is when they are torqued up on the car. I changed mine last year as a matter of course as I was fitting new shocks. Bearings were on 170k an no play in them. Changing them can be a nightmare as the cover plate bolts will be welded in to the hub by now and are made from cheese. I ended up machining all 4 on each hub out and re tapping the threads.

Mine (cover plates) all came out really easily on both sides at the front. Car is a 98 C2 100+K miles I think I used my mini impact gun set on lowest and just let it tap away for a while and they all span out. Weird how 2 identical components can be so different.

I remember doing my bearings last year and reassembled everything only to find I'd forgot to fit the disc shields

Thanks both, pulled the hubs after fabricating a puller that would work with the strange shape of the carrier. One came out lonely, whilst the other held the inner race hostage. I'll replace the bearings as a matter of course. Out of interest, I looked Design 911 just to get a clue on price and noticed that aftermarket bearing s are circa £28, with OE Porsche up there at £86. Over the years I've come to realise that sometimes a good OE equivelent is perfectly serviceable, whilst other times it pays to buy the factory part. Which category do Porsche wheels bearings fall into?

I fitted the cheaper ones on my 98 C2 but if it'd been my Turbo I'd have gone Porsche

I'd only go with a reputable firm for bearings. I fit these when I did mine: Pardon our interruption...

Yep, got the same from AutoDoc. The OG Porsche items are FAG, so like for like is fine with me. The hub nots that come in the kit though are different to mine, as mine have a slip cup integral washer. I'll buy these separately as I believe they should be replaced after each use.