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YOUR RESEARCHOil feed return bolt torque
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Clean ready
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Oil feed tubes in, pickup spacer installed and surfaces cleaned, ready to fit.
Leading evidence: 'Clean ready' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'thicker oil' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean ready' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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nice little write up, I have an x51 sump fitted already but have the 997 oil return tubes sat waiting to fit when I do the next oil change
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Last year I used Locktite 5980 to seal a sump and timing chain cover, it was easy to use and has been 100% oil tight.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The sump bolts also have thread lock on them, I had new ones in the kit so used those rather than reusing the originals.
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Suspected cause
I think the increase in oil pressure is due to the thicker oil.
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2002 C4S. Hey all, this weekend I'm installing a FVD Brombacher baffled oil sump pan. While doing so I'm also going to replace the oil return pipes with the M97 engine ones as a bit of additional safety. Does anyone know or know how to find the torque for the bolts for the oil feed pipes? I don't want the pipes coming loose and I definitely don't want to overtighten them and damage the block or snap a bolt. Thanks
I went for the same torque as the oil pickup tube, 10Nm. Its all fitted, now I just need to fill her up after the Locktite has had 24 hours to cure and pray there are no leaks! Aside from making a mess when draining the oil and pulling out the old filter and removing the sump pan, it was pretty straight forwards.
Overall this was a pretty easy job. It was more intimidating in my head than in reality. As always when messing with the oily bits, I made a mess. Draining the oil was easy (no sparkes, yay!), pulling the filter was a little harder and made some mess, gently levering off the old sump resulted in a nice mess on the floor. It took just over an hour and that was with me taking it nice and slow.
Comparison of the two sump pans. You can see the extra baffling as well as the additional depth. The oil return tubes are much simpler and freer flowing too.
Oil feed tubes in, pickup spacer installed and surfaces cleaned, ready to fit. They not only needed genle scraping to remove the old sealant but also a good clean with a scotch pad.
I did a couple of dry fits before installing it properly. I saw a post on Rennline about using a long bolt in each corner with the head cut off to guide the sump on smoothly. I didn't do this but I'd recommend it. While I had no issues it was a bit more fraught when getting it into the right place. And yes, I need to replace the sump plug with a new one, that's far too rusty! I thought it came in the kit but it didn't.
A couple of runs later and no leaks so all good. I switched oils to the Millers Nanodrive 10w-50. My oil pressure is definitely higher now, once warm it idles just above 2 on the internal guage where as before it was idling just below 2.
Now onto the next jobs. My drivers window is playing up, there are 2 rattles to chase down and it needs a MOT.
Interesting to see the M97 return doesn't have the separator. I wonder why that is? Makes me want to change mine as well.
I think the increase in oil pressure is due to the thicker oil. Mine is also higher with Mobil 5W50 vs 5W40, though I don't think the idle pressure is really that important.
Yea, the change in pressure is definitely due to the oil.
From my reading, the simpler M97 tubes return the oil more quickly, helping reduce the likelihood of oil starvation.
I'll echo those comments, thanks for documenting! I've got the x51 sump but would like to look into those 997 oil pick up pipes, they look a lot better! Definitely something to do next oil change!
I take it the sump doesnt have a gasket and just uses sealant instead?
Just an observation - the way in which the extra depth / capacity is created and the drain plug threaded means there will always be residual oil left in the sump on an oil change. It may be the case on the standard sump to a lesser extent - I’ve not looked at one!
My 996 has a dipstick so an oil vacuum may be an option. I understand the 997 does away with the dipstick and only has electronic oil measurement.
Last year I used Locktite 5980 to seal a sump and timing chain cover, it was easy to use and has been 100% oil tight. Strange how they have so many products which seem to be for the same jobs!
