Hooray... another (probable) bore scoring thread!

When my spark plugs were getting replaced last week, my buddy stuck his borescope into my cylinders to check the health of my cylinder walls @ 51,700 miles. I believe what we've uncovered is either artifacts from lighting, or the beginning of extremely light bore scoring. I'm interested to hear what your opinions are on this. I have done oil changes every 3000-4000 miles since I bought the car with 34,000 miles in July 2022 with Motul 300V 5W-40. Currently, the car doesn't consume any oil. As preventative maintenance, I'm going to change the oil again with 300V 5W-40, send the oil off to analysis, and also throw in a bottle of LiquiMoly 's Ceratec. I think with proper care, the motor should last me at least another 3-4 years. I intend on scoping the motor again sometime in the next year to see how the scoring has progressed (or if it was really scoring at all). Again, interested to hear everyone's thoughts on this and whether you believe it is the beginning of the dreaded bore scoring.

Next oil change, remove the oil pan and invite your buddy again to access the boroscope from the bottom of the pistons, as this is where the cylinder scoring really happens. It's important to use very little sealant on the oil pan cover during reassembly..

Yeah, sounds like that's the next move. I have the LN pan and man, getting that thin bead of sealant around the pan was a PITA when I was installing it. I want to get the Hartech oil pan but I'm not sure if I want to invest more money in a car that has a ton of scoring.

While I have not used a scope on my cylinders, I assume that 5 and 6 have some scoring. No tell tale signs though. I also run Motul V 300 5W 40 and change it at 4000 miles intervals. So back to your plight. You now know what actually your bores look like at least the top half, the bottom could be worse. Can you afford a rebuild in the next 4 to 5 years? So that is the question on how you will be running your car. Autocross maybe, HPDE's not likely. Sell car now and buy a later version without the risk of total engine meltdown. Engine and engine replacement costs about $22-25k depending on your methods. Enough said.

That's what I'm trying to figure out to be honest. I don't drive my car very much anymore unless it is for spirited driving or to/from/at the track. There's a lot of routes, and going to graduate school in 2 years, I probably shouldn't blow half a year's stipend on rebuilding the motor. I know that if I choose to go down the rebuild route, I will reach out to Slakker to get the motor done to 3.8 or 4.1L. I'm not completely satisfied with the 3.4L in stock form. I have accepted that I also don't have the time, knowledge, or tools to tackle rebuilding the motor on my own either, so that's out of the picture. There's a few other options, like trading or selling the car into a used non-competition M2, or buying an Integra Type S. I don't know how realistic any of those options are for me right now. Ideally, I can get a 987.2 S or a 997.2 S, but I may get something with 4 doors instead. It's all in the air now, depending on how bad the bottom of my cylinders look.

To me - the photos show nothing I'd be up at night worrying about. If you are the type who worries a lot - I'd suggest - and this is NOT AT ALL PORSCHE recommended - looking for Castrol TWS oil, aka Castrol Edge 10W-60 oil. The 10 is a bit higher than Porsche recommends - which to me means take it a bit easier when the engine is cold and let it warm up but don't lug it. The 60 number is what's important. This oil was made up by Castrol in response to cylinder and bearing issues on the BMW S54 engine (a beautiful fatally flawed engine) and on the Audi V10 engine. It was available at BMW dealers and Audi dealers, and it's usually at AutoZone or other big-box stores, but you won't find it on the shelf - it lives behind the counter, you've got to ask for it. My experience with this oil is with an air/oil-cooled boxer engine - the BMW R1200 motorcycle engine, oil/air cooled horizontally opposed, in later iterations some rather complex valve stuff going on. The oil cooling is the cylinder and the valve area. These engines tend to be noisy - there simply isn't anything much around them to quiet down the noise. The tappets tend to clatter a bit if they're rev'd cold... The engines simply ran better with the TWS oil. BMW realized that too - and actually spec'd that oil for their HP version of the engine used in the R1200HP bikes - basically race bikes setup for the street. The engines felt smoother longer, they were quieter longer, and they seemed to hold up just fine - my original R1200R is still riding with the 2nd owner, I sold it to him with 100,000 miles, it's now getting close to 150,000 miles, and aside from the occasional valve adjustment - the engine hasn't been touched. The thing is - the BMW engine uses the same cylinder coating that Porsche uses on the 9A1 engines - and they never seem to fail. That's me. I don't see any gouges in your cylinder walls. I see some polishing - leaving lines - but nothing that would scare me.

Thanks for the positive outlook and the advice. Like I mentioned, I think that my goal is to do preventative maintenance to prolong the life of the motor until it starts burning oil. Coming from a half-noob, the 10W is okay to run year round? I'm in sunny CA so cold temps aren't the worst in the world. That's why I get away with 5W and not 0W. Would it be okay to find a 5W60 oil? I normally do my shopping @ FCPEuro , so I hope they stock it. I have noticed a lot more ticking from the motor, but I personally chalked it up to lifter tick, which isn't abnormal at all. If it gets worse I'll throw in LiquiMoly 's lifter and valve cleaning additive, which I've heard helps.

We are all very focused owners, that's in large part why we are here and enjoy each other's company on P9. Our cars are incredibly expensive to repair, as such we endeavor to avoid the "whammy's" like we are contestants on Porsche press your luck. We reduce the TCO (total cost of ownership) by helping each other with tips on repairs and preventative suggestions such as deep oil pans for those who track. Lose an engine like I did in the 986 and it's always in the back of your mind, so I get it and am afflicted with the same disease. I'm not trying to judge here. However being from the medical field I sometimes wonder if people deep in that obsession have any idea what their own blood pressure is or anything about their bloodwork. I don't know if my car has scoring, I don't know what Blackstone would say about my used oil either. Here's what I do know, it runs better than any engine in any car I've ever owned. It doesn't spit oil all over itself and it does not burn oil. I guess what I'm trying to express here is this: If your car runs great and doesn't consume more oil than the stated normal deviations Porsche has established? Drive it and enjoy it like the good doctor intended. I agree with Don, I've seen many engine blocks in my life, those photos don't jump out at me as OMG this engine is on the way out, just my 2 cents.

On my way to get new coils, plugs and an oil change in a minute (Provost Motorsports, Bordentown NJ - excellent shop.. they race what we drive..) I'll just reinforce a bit what Boris said.. you said: Hmm.. could some of what Boris said be true here - are you obsessing over the engine? If you listen for ticking it WILL absolutely increase. An old mechanic, many decades ago I used knew this syndrome well, and knew when I'd get to obsessing about something. His advice to me always was "Turn the radio up louder and drive the damn thing.." As Boris points out - most people who obsess over car stuff have no idea what their own blood work might tell them... I'm probably the exception to that - due to some prior issues and some on-going health issues - I have blood tests - extensive ones - done every 2 months or so. Ask me what my testosterone level is - and I can tell'ya (180 and dropping..) How about lipids? I could bore you all day.. but I've also, due to that, learned to not ignore - but put into balance what info I get from those tests. And move on. The same applies to tests about my car engine. Don't obsess. And don't go looking for trouble. That will drive you nutty. If it's running well enjoy it. Nothing in life, including life, lasts forever so don't sweat it. Enjoy it now. YMMV and probably will..

Agreed with all of the above. 1) IMHO, do a Blackstone oil analysis at your earliest convenience (oil change). That should help you find if there is indeed any excessive motor wear (in this case, bore scoring) that's unusual. This will cost you a total of $30 and will help you sleep better at night. I bet they'll find nothing. I did this on my 257K+ mile 987.2 and now rest easily that my engine remains in good health. Do this at each oil change, and you'll have a better handle as to what goes on in your engine with regards to wear. 2) I'm also a BMW rider and have been using heavier weight oils in my R-bikes like @deilenberger - Not a bad idea. I happen to be a Mobil 1 fan in all of my vehicles for 30+ years, but that's just me. Lots of threads if you're worried at all -- and there's a great PCA video about what to do if you do in fact have bore scoring that's starting. You may want to take preventative measures as listed in the video. I'm guessing you'll be enjoying your 987.1 for many years to come! 3) Even my 9A1 engine has loud lifter tick if it has been sitting for a few days, which goes away once it's up to temp. I don't let it idle at start, and am just gentle with the car until it's up to temp. Good luck with this and definitely loop back with everyone as to how things go. I'm sure your 987 will be just fine!

Clicks have been attributed to: Loose spark plug , fuel injectors, valves (24) My 9A1 ticks after storage then stops after I go back to spring driving.

Thanks all for the advice and input. If it works, then don't fix it! I'll definitely get a Blackstone done for peace of mind. I have been more paranoid the car, I'd probably tack it up to chasing a cylinder 1 misfire for over a year now that keeps popping up every few months - I've replaced coils, injectors, plugs, o2 sensors ... you name it. The last thing left is the VVT solenoid - I hear a very short grind during the changeover period. The ticking doesn't really bother me at all. I just noticed that in November/December 2023 it got louder than, but I don't drive the car as much as I used to (since July/August 2023). I transferred universities and don't need to commute to see my friends that go to the school I transferred to anymore.

The first thing to do when the ticking gets louder is check the oil level, it's a ground ball and if low topping makes a difference. I underfill after a change and top slowly till one full bar below top. On the first pass with lower oil level I could hear it then once I got it to the level there was none.

My oil level is 1 bar below max. I usually check it every time before I drive since I park on a flat and level surface. I've never had any issues with overfilling, but when I install an M- AOS or U- AOS I will fill to max/1qt overfill as recommended by Slakker.

I replaced my AOS I think 2 years back. I did it when the car didn't need a change and ran it post repair no issues. I cut the AOS open, it's essentially a spring valve, I'm not sure why adding oil was suggested, I would avoid overfilling any crankcase because more is not better. More oil stresses oil seals, no bueno.

Motul 300 V 5W-40 is the oil to use. Those marks inside the bores could have been from previous owner's usage and maybe a normal occurrence at 35-40K miles. If you decide to run your car as is, you can check each bore a year from now. If you get a Hartech oil sump, that would be the time to check the lower bores especially 5&6. What you are really concerned about is the health of the piston skirts on those two bores as the matrix material that Porsche had applied to the skirts surface wear away causing metal to metal contact. Also Porsche uses the same piston on both banks and during the remodel from M97 to the 9A1 engine they changed the angle of the wrist pin slightly on that engine bank to allow more space for the rod to change directions reducing the piston skirt pressure on the bore. Bore scoring usually only happens on one side of the motor because of this wrist pin issue and the coating they applied to the piston skirt. You may notice a "slight" difference between the two banks of bores especially 5 and 6. The pictures are not numbered so I could not tell which is 5 or 6. LN, Slakker or Jake Raby at Flat Six Innovations, maybe more willing to give that determination if this is actually early bore scoring or normal wear.

Yeah, I'm a regular Motul 300V 5W-40 user. FCPEuro 's warranty on it is great. I'll reach out to Brandon at Slakker and get their thoughts on the situation too.

I recently attended a tech session at my local Porsche dealer. They were working on an engine with bore scoring. Since the engine was disassembled, I was able to take a picture of the offending cylinder with flashlight and ambient light illumination (see photo). I don't know if it's very clear in this picture, but I thought this might help you decide if you really have bore scoring. The damage can be seen on the lower surface of the cylinder wall. I believe this engine was going to be replaced for about $20K. Good luck!

Correct me if I'm wrong - but aren't we looking at the top of the cylinder here? It looks like a piston crown part way down the bore (cutouts for valve clearance).. and what's really interesting - I wonder what engine this is. The closed deck design to me implies it's a 9A1 or newer (2009+) - although I don't know what the 986 Turbo engines used - closed deck or open..

Actually - the blue plastic plugs stay in place when the engine is assembled.. those are the water passages from the cylinder head to the block, and those plugs are there I believe to prevent cavitation and draining of the head, or something like that (it's been a long time since I read up on that engine..) The cylinder looks more like flaking rather than scoring, although that might just be bare cylinder surface and the rest of that bore is carboned up for some reason. The headbolt holes - two are visible, two are behind that extra fuel-injection plumbing in the photo..