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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHBringing your 996 out of winter storage
Leading reported evidence
Replace oil so the filter was empty)
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Oil pressure came up in about second (I just changed the oil so the filter was empty).
Leading evidence: 'Replace oil so the filter was empty)' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust mirrors, seatbelt' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Start the car, adjust mirrors, seatbelt on, radio set, and we go.
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Suggestion
You cannot get oil pressure from just running the starter and turning over the motor.
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14 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T052503Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I�m about to fire up my 2000 996 C2 with 120k miles where it has been stored since November. I saw a YouTube video where the guy suggests pulling the fuel pump fuse and cranking the engine one time before reinserting the fuse and starting the car for real. Can anyone confirm whether this is a good idea or not? Thanks in advance
Or, just start the car. My car stays on a battery maintainer from Nov to April. I changed the oil, and fired it up. It started like it just ran yesterday. Oil pressure came up in about second (I just changed the oil so the filter was empty).
I keep it on the trickle charger in my garage over winter. Turn the key 3 times to get it to turn over and then start it on the forth. Don't know if it helps, hurts or a waste of time but I don't have any bore scoring and the oil tests are good.
Turn the key past 2nd position to get it to begin to turn over. But not hold it long enough to start. I do this 3 times if it has been sitting over winter for an extended period. All other times of year I just turn the key and start it immediately. Learned it from my uncle and then reconfirmed by Jake in his start up procedures to prevent bore scoring videos. Idea is to get lubricants moving before combustion.
In general Porsche recommends that you drive immediately but gently. Do not idle. Need to get the lubrication to its targets. 15 to 20 seconds. By the time you get your seatbelt attached it it's time to go. I know in my 964 the manual says gently means up to 4,500 RPMs (!) but I stay below 3,000 for the first 3 to 5 minutes. Then progressively extend the RPM range over the next 10 minutes. at that point everything is warm and ready to rock.
I drive gently (3k rpm max) until I see the oil pressure start to drop from near 5 bar. That's usually 5 or so minutes of driving. Why oil pressure gauge instead of water temp? Because the water temp will come up faster than the oil warms up. Is there any science behind the 3k rpm thing? I don't think so. But, I never thrash a cold engine on anything I drive (teen years excluded). Oh, and don't sit there letting the car idle for a long time, just drive it.
This is great, thanks. I typically just fire the car up and drive. No idling.. My car is a Tiptronic, so I let it do it's thing in automatic mode until everything appears and feels warmed up, then flip to manual if I want to rock and roll a bit.
Just wasn't sure if after a long period if there are any extra cautions to take, so though I'd ask.
watch your mirrors for smoke? (!)
gently test stopping power.
monitor for fluid leaks/ puddles.
pay attention to smells and sounds, (including windows down)
refresh fuel at earliest convenience.
i also like to curb my enthusiasm, stay within a reasonable radius from home base, and consider plan B options/ escape plans for safe harbor if necessary. probably never happen if you have a plan, might happen if you don't.
Echoing those: I don't do the extra crank thing, but I definitely keep it under 3000rpm until the car is warm, then I move up the rev range from there. It's probably 15 minutes of "warming up", but I'm not idling the car to warm it up. Start the car, adjust mirrors, seatbelt on, radio set, and we go.
I'll try the extra crank thing next year.
-Matt
I do the low load, low RPM starting out process EVERY TIME I DRIVE THE CAR, not just the first time after winter. I try to start and drive the car occasionally during winter breaks, so I don't do anything special come spring.
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