Suggestions to remove stuck transmission oil filler nut?

I've tried; cold transmission, warm transmission, WD-40 for a couple days, breaker bar with pipe, banging on said breaker bar with hammer. Just tried to get an impact driver in there, but I'm 1/2" too shy of fitting it in there, have to find a shorter bit. Working on jack stands so have not a lot of leverage with anything. Really don't want to damage transmission side threading... but now at loss how to get it off.

Propane or map gas torch heat for 30sec at a time. Get a few heat and cold cycles and keep working it.

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Ok can try that. So 30sec on and 30sec off and keep trying the breaker bar in between? Hopefully dont create a wd40 inferno 🙄

Heat and PB Blaster Let it soak over night Apply heat Use breaker bar

Ok so far burning a flame under the car while on jack stands is the least fun thing I've done so far on this car...

I suggest you keep a fire extinguisher close by.

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Yes have one

Call in the pro. No offense to you. Working on a lift, with access to core muscles, long breaker bar, and appropriate tools, is far better than burning a flame under the car.

U can wait minutes between cycles. U dont want too much heat and by letting it cool the plug and the case will expand and contract at diffrrent rates and eventually let the oxidation break free. A small kitchen butane torch also works but takes longer. The flame will be much smaller (safer).

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I have to agree in this case. If you are pulling that hard, you risk jostling the car off the jackstands. Quickjack might be okay but jackstands can topple. I gotta say, I'd be tempted to hire a private detective just to hunt down whoever put it in that tight in the first place.

All good points above about going to shop. I don't think I have the strength or the leverage to damage the bolt, or even worse topple the stands, but man I have thought about that. I have a plumbing torch but using camp stove propane which burns cooler. Going to try PB Blaster and then a few more heat cycles, and if that doesn't work, will give up... If anything I found my shifter cable had come unseated from the U-shaped metal holder. So popped that back in for a win.

Secure both of them with a zip tie as a safety. Search for pics if unsure how. I dissagree with needing a pro, u got this, but u shoud always start with loosening the fill plug first then move fo the drain plug.

WD40 is a preservative (water displacement hence WD). PB blaster is a true penetrating oil. I use Kroil and it loosens things that nothing else has touched. Kano Kroil Penetrating Oil, 8 ounce liquid https://a.co/d/bMpqm9v

These plugs r sealed with crush rings so its not the threads that r holding the plugs in, its the oxidation between the plug head and the sealing ring. Penitrant may get in there but by deffination its "sealed". U need the hot/cool cycles to break the oxidation down.

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Per the shifter cable i did see some threads about secure it with zip ties. Mine was twisted 180 degrees so the metal clip was on the wrong side. I carefully rotated the whole thing back and pressed it in. I hope the cable free floats in the housing, and twisting the housing doesnt matter.

Success! Two rounds of PB Blaster last night, then two short heat blasts this morning, finally broke it free. The drain bolt is actually in amazing shape, once it broke free it came off like butter. The oil actually looks decent too. Brown but still transparent. Though not sure what brand it is. Oddly when I took the plug off it started flowing out of the case. I let some come out to inspect it, but plugged it back up. But wouldn't this mean over filled? Verified car is totally level in both planes.

Congrates, i had confidence in ya. Kinda but its normal to be a bit high. If it was pumped in they let it drain out before they stop and put the plug in quickly. Always a few ounces high as they usually dont let it level out.

Slightly overfilled, but not anything to worry about. Use a fresh seal ring on both the drain and fill, A 22 x 27 mm, p/n 900-123-118-30. Torque to 30 Nm.

Just my experience but I find the copper sealing rings seem to not stick as bad as aluminum. I also dab a tiny bit of neverseize on the sealing surface..

Well there was no ring on the filler plug. And looks to be no ring on the drain plug either. Probably why it was so hard to get off!

Yeah that will do it!

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That's what I had to resort to, that sucker would not budge. It's not even something that should be torqued on, it's on the top of the damn gearbox. Grrr.

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I have a couple of those crush washers if you don't have, can mail, lmk.

U can buy the washers by the stack on amazon cheap and have them in a day. I have a couple of the multi packs and just refill the common sizes as needed.

An electric heat gun is useful when open flames are too dangerous�😉 glad you got the plug out. Don�t be afraid to put a little anti seize on the threads either� the stuff is priceless!

Key word with anti seize is LITTLE , it doesn't take much to do the job ,,, on plugs the last 2 -3 threads at the outer end of the plug and the flange contact area, will do it.. Your just trying to stop the more exposed threads and sealing seat from sticking. I use a q-tip.. and start with about < a BB size amount. Don't use it full length it will allow over torque of the plug.

Here is my psa.....antiseeze is not for threads ever. It is to prevent corrosion between interference fit items such as axle spline to hub. It greatly effects torque thus should nit be used on bolts or lugs. It would be fine on the sealing washer and in this case not needed ever on the threads as the treads r not the issue. Its the surface tension between the head of the bolt and the sealing washer that corrodes and makes this bolt difficult to loosen. Also in this specific case the missing sealing ring has made this job much harder then it should have been.

�Here is my psa.....antiseeze is not for threads ever.� I�ll take that with several grains of salt and toss it over my shoulder�

If you don't have anti seize on hand you can use Milk of Magnesia . It's a trick an ex military friend passed along to me . And yes it works .

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