Oil Pressure Switch Failure for those with the Sport Exhaust and/or Cabriolet

So after a few very frustrating hours spent unsuccessfully to change out the old unit for the new, I am starting a thread for those with the Sport Exhaust and/or Cab configuration given that it seems a lot of threads do not mention that these options make this quick fix a significantly longer PITA. I have an 04 4S with Sport Exhaust, and have a few questions. I searched Rennlist and Renntech, but found either scant references or no mention of working with these types, and I consulted the Bentley manual which oddly didn't have much when it comes to the switch. To be fair, it just dawned on me that I did not look up the exhaust so far as working around that. Strike one on me. So questions. For those that have changed this out with either/both the Sports Exhaust and Cab, can you please answer the following: 1. Was anyone able to do this without jacking up the car? I ask because that would save a lot of time and this repair seems to factor it in out of preference and ease, but it can obviously be done without doing that. If you did do it without jacking up the car, any tips or tricks are welcome! 2. Before I start mucking around with the vacuum, can anyone confirm that is just the one 5mm hex nut holding the vacuum in place? There is so much packed in there, I want to make sure I know what I am removing/doing. Last think I want to do is make more problems. Along this question, can anyone list what they did to make room. So far on my list I need to unfasten the vacuum, and disconnect/lower the bracket holding the sensor relay that traverses the airbox, and I would hope that would be enough room to take the damn thing out. 3. Can anyone confirm the two wires (G/WK terminals) pull off? That sure doesn't look at the case based on my car, and any sort of guidance would be great. One of the issues is those two wires appear to be screwed/fastened under the little hex nut on each terminal, and I can barely even get back there to even touch the damn thing. Given my car's age, I am sure they are going to be even more difficult to get off. If there is a demo video of getting these wires off, a reference would be great. Thanks again and this hopefully answers a few questions for those that want to do this (and yes it seems stupid easy), but by sheer configuration of the car and/or optioned equipment, it's proving a real pain in the ***. In the meantime, I was able to get some deoxifier on it and scrub it with a brush to see if that at least improves the unit until I can really get at it. Thanks!

My vacuum fittings for the PSE are all simple black plastic tube with rubber push in connectors, even the one the intake is a small push fitting. NO nuts or bolts other than the bracket for the vacuum bottle that I am relocating just to make access in there easier in general. (2003 Cab c4) THe last foot or two to the valves was stainless braided line, just pushed on the bibs to hold, I have replaced it with high temp silicon, and a heat wrap, I am rearranging the PSE plumbing to get it tucked out of the way of the engine access, plus I recently replaced the valves with some that have a bit more meat to them so they don't rattle as they age.

I must have missed it in your posts but when did your oil pressure sensor fail? And did you determine it was in indeed he sensor. With the car connected to durametric or similar is it reading no pressure? Edit: I guess you are referring to having to remove the actuator off the muffler?

It started getting screwy before I changed my oil and I was planning to do the oil change then the switch but clearly didn�t realize that the ease of the latter depended on the engine bay config based on trim and options.

This sounds sweet. You mind posting pictures and any steps that might not be apparent? Thanks so much.

I just realized something, are you pulling the pressure switch or the "oil spike" for temp and level of the oil? The Oil pressure is on the far right side of the engine, the spike is under the intake manifold... I assume your trying to remove the PSE vacuum tank thats on the right side of the intake to make room to get to the oil pressure sensor.

I've replaced my oil pressure sensor 2 times now in my '03 PSE car I did need to jack it up and remove the rear tire, then the access is easy from the bottom with a crow foot

So the red box highlights the problem hose that seems near impossible to move and something I don't want to f--k with given how solidly placed it is. It literally blocks any and near all movement directly to the oil pressure sensor switch. It�s the ribbed hose back further in the picture if the box doesn�t help. The nuts on the switch holding the two wires are seriously fixed on there and will be require likely some type of breaker spray and a wrench to loosen up. The car has 86480 on the odometer and it's likely never been changed based on how this car has been able to keep it's day one equipment going. Sorry in advance if these pictures come out on the larger side. I attempted to downgrade the size, but not sure how they will post. Any advice gladly taken. Attending an area PCA tech session with open lifts, so getting underneath is the least of my problems right now if I can't even reach the damn thing

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Nuts do not hold wires to the pressure sensor. They pull off the terminals.

Those two hoses are the Power Steering lines, they have disconnects that are a copper ish color towards the front of the car. about a foot out of the photo. Takes 2 wrenches and if you loosen the motor mounts its no big deal to take them loose, you'll lose a cup or two of fluid at most if you keep them pointed up.. I use a small Dewalt impact driver (1/4 inch) I use a small socket and lightly hit it a couple times, came right out.. Some PB blaster on the threads of the bolts sticking out helps tons. Nearly every task on a 996 motor 2 possible step ones.... 1. Remove engine 2. Lower engine.

Sorry, that picture I realize is confusing. This is a better deal. Finger is on the hose and the hose is highlighted. Looked over and it's similar to junction box "cable" and originates at the engine. It's late here and didn't have much time, but trying to learn as I go. Appreciate the patience, and thanks so much for the help.

I have a C4S coupe with PSE. I did not remove any of those things to get to the Oil Pressure Sender. Yes, it's very tight to reach in there. I had to reach my arm in almost upside down so that my elbow would bend down in order to get the angle right to reach back in there. The corrugated vent tube goes over to the left side of the engine, through the intake to the AOS, it's a pain to remove even there on the right side. I would leave it alone. As you can see, I found a bore-scope extremely valuable. There was no way to both reach in, and to see, at the same time. So I did most of it by feel, and by looking at the video on my phone while reaching in. Reach between the PS lines and the AC lines. You can see the oil pressure sender here, just in the far back at the bottom, behind the corrugated vent tube. There it is! The wires are just F2 (1/4") spade connectors. The sender has 19mm hex head on the bottom As was suggested earlier, in order to break it loose, come up from the right-rear tire (jack car and remove tire). Use a socket wrench with a long extension, and a 19mm crows-foot on the end. That will break it loose. It can then be screwed on/off by hand from the top (not that it's easy to reach back there, but it is possible). Use the crow's foot to torque the new one back on as well.

The large corrugated hose you are pointing to is the AOS crossover hose from the right side of engine over to the AOS.

Thanks again. Sorry to be making this more than it should be, but here I am (we are?). This is super helpful, and again, I am really trying to dig into this, while not doing anything impulsive or stupid. There are a few things my manual doesn't cover and trim levels that are breezed over, so this is all incredibly helpful. Depending on how many hands I have, I will document this and post it as a secondary reference.

No problem. Let us know how it turns out.

90% of it is just familiarity. OR some of it is balancing having your Indy fix it vs buying specialty tools for a 1 time job.. If your going to DIY it, Jakes FSI torque book is very handy(Ln engineering sells it I believe), as well as the 100 projects for your Porsche book. (Great bunch of pics and some good tips. ) I have the Big brown 996 service manual as well, between them all it de-mystifies a lot of the jobs. Mechanically I don't find the 911 to be near as hard to work on as most FWD Japanese cars.. Invest in a few upper end tools, I would call out,,, a accurate inch/lb torque wrench, a good foot lb torque wrench, and a ebay bore endoscopy cam(Plugs in to a smart phone). Don't try and short cut, once you've dropped the engine it gets easier... I have found where some things like the 6 spd trans on my C4 actually can come out without the motor, its just fussy.

Well today was a comedy of frustration. Car was up on a lift. Had to remove the vacuum canister from the mounting sleeve to get back there and it started off bad. Sleeve dropped and didn�t pop out the bottom. Decided to press on and finally got the connectors off which were close-looped so that took some time. Car up on lift, heat shield off and hit the base with PB to loosen the switch. Multiple attempts and had a few from PCA to help and no one could get it off. So call it and put it back together. No mirrors, bore scope, magnets could get us the sleeve back. Zip tied canister so it isn�t flying around. Go to brunch after this escapade and on the way home, the sleeve clinks and shoots out the back on a freeway. So now have to replace that sleeve and I still have a busted pressure sensor� The quotes around town are absurd to fix a 55-60 dollar part. At a loss and welcome any suggestions. Maybe a stubby 19mm wrench�?

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So with an extension and crow's foot you couldn't get it to turn? In that situation the ratchet would be set to tighten, clockwise looking from below.

Yeh we checked several times and made sure the ratchet was set properly, and the turn was left... And nothing... This has been a morale blow to say the least...

Ordered two stubbies and going to take another crack at it when I have time. Starting to think this might be a lost cause though. Can anyone confirm that part number 99611123000 is the right part for the sleeve that shot its way out the back of the car today? It�s listed as �undefined� in a few diagrams and as a generic part with that code according to a few dealerships I called� Thanks!

Going to take one more swing at this tomorrow and remove the air box for better reach into the back of the engine. Read on one of the other well trafficked Rennlist oil switch threads that�s how two owners got it off� so why not� I have two stubbies, and just to clarify, since I am coming at this from the TOP of the engine, that typical counterclockwise will apply as it normally does to LOOSEN. Lol am not being **** or in anyway condescending, but I just want to be clear here so as to hope to get it finally done. Thanks so much!

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You didn't take the airbox off? That's step 1 on 99% of the work on this car. ANYTHING in the engine bay requires the airbox to come off. Sorry we didn't say that explicitly earlier. I hope that's enough to help you succeed!

And now I know� lol. Going to attempt to test the fans and cooling too.

I replaced mine in a 2003 C2 PSE equipt'd car. I reached in from the top to disconnect the wiring, but did the crows-foot from the bottom to get it to break loose and remove. -Tom

Air box out and after two hours the f�king thing will not budge. Hit it with PB. Verified CC turning and it just won�t move. I�m about to button it up and take it in Tuesday. So much for a starter job�

with a crows foot from below, you will need to turn it clockwise, since you are approaching the "bolt" from the back side You may have been unknowingly tightening the sender, instead of loosening it

Yeh we had one holding the crows foot to the base from underneath, and I was attempting from the top since that is where I could get the best leverage. I might have actually loosened it since� on the way to the shop - shocker - I got some blue/white smoke out the back and a small snail trail from where the switch is seated� writing this one off like a crashed Mi17Sh in Afghanistan.

If its loose enough to leak, its very likely loose enough now to get out by hand.. Crossing fingers for ya..

Lol, it�s at my indie now so if it�s done today or by tomorrow AM I just paid to ensure there are no leaks� ahhh� time for a drink�

Well, call it a success! 1) you learned a lot 2) a good DIY'er knows when to call in a professional 3) you ultimately did get it loose!

When I pulled my engine, I started with the exhaust, took 2 days, I fought each bolt 1 at a timed the car lots of blood,, none of it looked like it had ever been apart, About noon on day 2 I grabbed my small angle grinder and jut cut all the bolts except the header bolts, < 30 minutes exhaust on the floor... Spend another hour with a micro torch and a small cordless impact screwdriver and some PB blaster to get the header bolts out. Only broke 1.. I was told thats a epic result.

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let me guess. most outer bolt on cylinder 6.

I can't tell if I am being trolled but this sounds way beyond my scope of knowledge. So... Indie just called... Took him an hour a half, and quote, "You guys had it loose, hence the oil leak on the drive over, just had to stick with it". And I thought we were literally stripping the nut. He wiped up the barfed oil, connectors are good, and we are back up and running. They are fabricating a sleeve for the vacuum canister that hid for a solid four hours and shot out on the highway. He also said, "You have one of the most intermixed (model gen, yearly updates) cars, no wonder it's been frustrating". And that, selfishly, made me feel better. Either way, I will take that as a win for diagnosis, part, and getting it done, just have to realize now you can really apply force and not break it... Which was not the case with some previous cars. I love being a 996 owner. Also, getting it detailed between the grease, oil, coolant, and road trash that currently covers it. It's a good car.

I�m on dad duty tonight but all parts will be photographed and I am going to write a process too. I owe this forum a lot. This was a 996 experience, and calling it a win given it took my indie 1.5hrs to receive the car with computer and paperwork, change the switch, clean it up and clean it down. Four hours, multiple �f�k this sh-7� moments and some good team work to get an oil leak from a loosened switch, we did it. Time with my dad (owned a 944, Euro spec 930, and illegally imported first gen Euro 964 C4), no price on that.

[QUOTE=DDR MFS;18730735] Either way, I will take that as a win for diagnosis, part, and getting it done, just have to realize now you can really apply force and not break it... Which was not the case with some previous cars. I love being a 996 owner./QUOTE] It's entirely possible that it was replaced before, by one of those "mechanics" who don't believe in torque wrenches. The "I can do it by feel" types So it may have been way too tight. You made the right call. You strip it out and it's a huge problem. The mechanics strips it out, and... well, it's still a huge problem, but at least it's there with the professional.

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cylinder 3, I go t a little impatient and snap.. All the rest heat and steady pressure got them loose,,, IT was going for rebuild so the head shop handled getting it out while they did the heads.

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NPT style fittings due to the tapered threads have a different feel, they dont "set" to a tight position like a standard bolt and they take a ridiculous number of turns to come loose.

Okay for closure, here are some tips and much thanks again to this awesome community. Final resolution for those skipping ahead: 1. Three attempts and thinking we were either doing damage to the car (we literally tried every technique on forums or on YouTube DIYs) or making a bad situation worse, decided to take the car to my indie 2. Drive there included white smoke, small oil leak (good?) 3. Indie got it off (see pdxmotorhead's above comment), wired back up, and topped off in under 45 min, paperwork took just as long 4. Said we definitely had it, but it was just being "difficult" since it was likely seated in there due to over torquing and age... we chalked that up as a win Tips: 1. I removed the airbox (duh moment reflected in this thread earlier) and moved the vacuum canister for easier access 2. Stubby 19mm wrench to get some initial grip and "crack" the base with PB'laster 3. Two people employed --> person A held the crowsfoot on the actual base of the oil switch from the bottom of the car (heat shield removed) / person B --> crowsfoot with extension applied amble torque but with limited rotation so person A could keep the crowsfoot seated and maintain a firm hold 4. Ensure your wires are either close looped or the OEM U --> mine had been changed to closed loop which means I had to get the nuts off, which required a combo of 7mm ratchet head and 7mm mini wrench; glad I didn't decide to yank them 5. Invest in a good, small, mountable light; I got a 800 lumens shop light "stick" that could be mounted in very tight places AND had three different beams and a full 180 degree rotational head 6. Work with a person who knows you well, will have patience with your inevitable frustration (my dad was that person), and can tail you if you get to that point, but most importantly will celebrate the victory

I have a 03 Cab. with PSE. I changed my sensor in about 15 minutes. Put it on my lift, removed the right wheel for access to the sensor and removed and replaced.

Porsche Easter egg. The stock connection on my 03 are pair of spade connectors that fit on the two posts on the sensor. So they just pull off.. Which is exactly like the connection on my old but not forgotten 69 VW bug.. Its a VDO thing.